6.2L V8 Discuss the 6.2L V8

Barely starts, sputters, nearly dies after fueling

  #16  
Old 10-29-2018, 06:52 PM
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I haven't ordered the valve yet. I will get on it this weekend and return to update everyone. It was mentioned earlier "is this a common problem?". I haven't read too many threads on FTE about it, but there are plenty of other sites that have tons of information on this exact issue. I would say yes, it is a "common problem".
 
  #17  
Old 10-29-2018, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselBeast01
I haven't ordered the valve yet. I will get on it this weekend and return to update everyone. It was mentioned earlier "is this a common problem?". I haven't read too many threads on FTE about it, but there are plenty of other sites that have tons of information on this exact issue. I would say yes, it is a "common problem".
I said that more as a tongue in cheek joke. This motor came out in 2010 and throughout the years there have been many new people that have come to the site to specifically ask what the common problems are with this motor and no one has had an answer for that question. It's just bullet proof. It took over EIGHT years to find something that is "common" for this engine, and it ended up being an issue that takes 5 minutes to fix, and it's not even that common. I used the quotation marks sarcastically because it's not a common problem at all considering how many of these engines are out there but it is the only thing that has a rare recurring tendency

that said, I picked mine up today and plan on putting it in tomorrow
 
  #18  
Old 11-02-2018, 07:21 AM
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waiting for the valve to come in, but had a thought....ya think a bad purge valve would cause poor fuel mileage? in the two years since i got my truck, fuel mileage has dropped from 10-11 mpg to 7-8 mpg.
i have only put 9,800 miles on in those two years.
 
  #19  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:49 AM
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It sounds more like you may have an injector problem, but go ahead and change the purge valve to eliminate it. Its cheap and easy to change and you already have it ordered.
 
  #20  
Old 11-03-2018, 12:51 PM
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well, valve was definitely bad.
open when cold, unlike the new valve that is closed cold.
on a plus, i may just get better mileage too. after putting the new valve in, i went for a test ride. runs better, and mileage already went up from 8.0 to 8.1 in a 1 mile run. this was with 117 miles on this tank trip meter, and i even stepped on it a few times pulling out into traffic.


it was a biatch to get to though. all the way in back top of the engine, with a hose clamp rite there to slice the back of my hand up like i was playing slap the hand with a pissed off cat.
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
well, valve was definitely bad.
open when cold, unlike the new valve that is closed cold.
on a plus, i may just get better mileage too. after putting the new valve in, i went for a test ride. runs better, and mileage already went up from 8.0 to 8.1 in a 1 mile run. this was with 117 miles on this tank trip meter, and i even stepped on it a few times pulling out into traffic.


it was a biatch to get to though. all the way in back top of the engine, with a hose clamp rite there to slice the back of my hand up like i was playing slap the hand with a pissed off cat.
I am going to replace my purge valve tomorrow, is it right in the center on the top of the engine?
 
  #22  
Old 11-13-2018, 06:48 AM
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look in from drivers side. you will see it about under the cowl lip on top driver side of the intake.
be warned, the hose clamps are like razor blades to the back of your hand when you try to get the electrical connection, and the vapor hose off. when done replacing the valve, you hands will look like you got in a fight with a very large pissed off cat.
the electric plug is not that bad, but the vapor hose clamp is the tough one. you need to pinch both little tabs while pushing them in to release the clamp so the hose will come off the valve. then you will need to position it perfectly before clamping it shut on the valve.
a top side creeper will work if you have one. i did not here at the house and had to use a step ladder to access it. made it a bit harder to reach, but it was still doable.
 
  #23  
Old 11-13-2018, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
look in from drivers side. you will see it about under the cowl lip on top driver side of the intake.
be warned, the hose clamps are like razor blades to the back of your hand when you try to get the electrical connection, and the vapor hose off. when done replacing the valve, you hands will look like you got in a fight with a very large pissed off cat.
the electric plug is not that bad, but the vapor hose clamp is the tough one. you need to pinch both little tabs while pushing them in to release the clamp so the hose will come off the valve. then you will need to position it perfectly before clamping it shut on the valve.
a top side creeper will work if you have one. i did not here at the house and had to use a step ladder to access it. made it a bit harder to reach, but it was still doable.
Thanks! It's all done, took about 15 minutes, but most of it was looking for the right length extensions. That hose wasn't too bad, just a few cuts! Once I figured out you squeeze the two tabs with your fingers and push them up it came right off. I found it was easier to unbolt the valve first to be able to move it around.
I have not filled it up yet but my P0456 code that has been on for months is gone!

and yes, the life as a 6.0 powerstroke owner has made a topside creeper an absolute must. 😂😥
 
  #24  
Old 11-13-2018, 03:17 PM
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doh!!!! i forgot about telling you to unbolt it before trying to take the hose and electric off.
i have no idea why they did not simply put the hose clamp on 180 degrees out, that would have made mechanics life so much easier, and save a lot of bandaids !!.
 
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