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2011 6.7 Lariat Crew Cab - Body Bushing Dry Rotted

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2011 6.7 Lariat Crew Cab - Body Bushing Dry Rotted

  #1  
Old 10-17-2018, 04:16 PM
eastcoastweb
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2011 6.7 Lariat Crew Cab - Body Bushing Dry Rotted

As the title mentions, I am also missing one totally, including the bolt. This FINALLY explains the rattling I've been hearing going over bumps. Been looking for that since I got the truck in July, Glad to have found it but was hoping it was just a simple tightening of something. Of course not!

Turns out Ford stopped using the reliable ones in 2004 and went with some soft rubber instead for a "better ride". Not much better if the cab falls off This from what I've been seeing is a common problem. Called a Ford dealer, they want $1,500 to replace them, parts are like $600. I wouldn't want Ford to replace them with the same garbage wherein 100k they will dry rot off again. I know the cab has to come off or get jacked up to replace. Watched it being done on YouTube.

So I called some local diesel truck shops and getting better prices in the $800s. Also looked on Amazon to find out pricing on some of the parts and they are much cheaper there and polyurethane and kevlar so they won't dry rot off again.

My question is, are these the correct ones? Amazon garage says they fit my truck. From Daystar... has anyone else replaced them with the non-Ford bushings?

Daystar, Ford F250/350 Kevlar infused polyurethane Body Mounts, fits 1999 to 2017 2/4WD, KF04050KV, Made in America
Amazon Amazon

BTW, Saturday my truck was hit by a deer. I swerved and almost missed him, hit my passenger side rear door, tore off my fender flair too... $3000+ worth of damage. I am cursed! Fun Times!
 
  #2  
Old 10-17-2018, 10:10 PM
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I have a clunk/pop and rattle driving down the road, worse with a tractor behind me. At this point, it has to be the cab bushings but I have not been able to 100% confirm. All of mine are attached and they don't look terrible but I don't remember what those looked like eight years ago.

I can't answer about aftermarket but my plan is to use OEM, if that's my issue. It appears Ford calls these insulators. With bolts and retainer the cost for OEM was $194 plus shipping.

Or $254 at the dealer. I'm either missing components or the $600 only parts they told you is borderline robbery.

7C3Z-1000154-LB
7C3Z-1000155-A
-W715132-S439K
7C3Z-1000155-B
W712879-S439
7C3Z-1000155-AA
7C3Z-1000155-GA
7C3Z-1000154-BA
7C3Z-1000154-AB
2L1Z-78101C58-AA
 
  #3  
Old 10-18-2018, 12:09 AM
rocco7869
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Go search body mounts in the 6.0 forum. There were several discussions over there including mine. When I replaced them on my 6oh, I used OEM. Got them from AutoNation White Bear Lake for couple hundred for both rear cab insulators. That was all that was bad on mine at the time. Some of the other guys were talking about aftermarket, maybe Daystar.

(edit) BTW, I did mine myself. Just loosen all the other cab bolts and I jacked the cab up using a 4x4 block of wood. Just pay attention to the placement of the block under the body.
 

Last edited by rocco7869; 10-18-2018 at 12:13 AM. Reason: adding info
  #4  
Old 10-18-2018, 12:18 AM
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2018, 08:10 AM
buba 11
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Originally Posted by kper05 View Post
I have a clunk/pop and rattle driving down the road, worse with a tractor behind me. At this point, it has to be the cab bushings but I have not been able to 100% confirm. All of mine are attached and they don't look terrible but I don't remember what those looked like eight years ago.

I can't answer about aftermarket but my plan is to use OEM, if that's my issue. It appears Ford calls these insulators. With bolts and retainer the cost for OEM was $194 plus shipping.

Or $254 at the dealer. I'm either missing components or the $600 only parts they told you is borderline robbery.

7C3Z-1000154-LB
7C3Z-1000155-A
-W715132-S439K
7C3Z-1000155-B
W712879-S439
7C3Z-1000155-AA
7C3Z-1000155-GA
7C3Z-1000154-BA
7C3Z-1000154-AB
2L1Z-78101C58-AA
This is great info, my 2011 has the shredded body mount issue. Can someone shed some light on the position 1, position2, position 4, etc thing. The ford diagram makes no sense to me.
 
  #6  
Old 10-21-2018, 08:27 AM
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I realized with that list, there are two part numbers and my count was low. Either way, it's a start in the right direction. I messed with mine on Thursday and three are in bad shape that I couldn't tell from visual inspection two months ago.
 
  #7  
Old 10-22-2018, 06:37 AM
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Its looking like my rear most bushings are shot, but I could replace the ones in the middle too because they looked kinda crushed. I just couldn't figure out from the ford diagram which ones I should order. Figured the rear most was number 3 or perhaps number 4, maybe the middle was number 3 and 1 and 2 were the ones in front???? What the hell is this??. Why couldn't they just label them 1-6? Can anyone help me understand how this goes? I have 3sets in my truck, front, middle and rear
 
  #8  
Old 10-22-2018, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by buba 11 View Post
Its looking like my rear most bushings are shot, but I could replace the ones in the middle too because they looked kinda crushed. I just couldn't figure out from the ford diagram which ones I should order. Figured the rear most was number 3 or perhaps number 4, maybe the middle was number 3 and 1 and 2 were the ones in front???? What the hell is this??. Why couldn't they just label them 1-6? Can anyone help me understand how this goes? I have 3sets in my truck, front, middle and rear
Position 1 is the two front upper mounts, position 5 is the 2 front lower mounts under the radiator, Position 2 and 6 make up both sides upper and lower 2nd from the front under driver feet. Position 3 and 7 are upper and lower both sides under rear of cab and 4 and 8 are the rear most upper and lower. 1 thru 4 are all upper parts of the mount, 5 thru 8 are all the lower parts. 1 and 5 make up 1 side, left or right, of a complete mount. So basically for a complete set of all mounts you would need 2 of each of 1-8. I hope that make more sense.
 
  #9  
Old 10-22-2018, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rocco7869
Position 1 is the two front upper mounts, position 5 is the 2 front lower mounts under the radiator, Position 2 and 6 make up both sides upper and lower 2nd from the front under driver feet. Position 3 and 7 are upper and lower both sides under rear of cab and 4 and 8 are the rear most upper and lower. 1 thru 4 are all upper parts of the mount, 5 thru 8 are all the lower parts. 1 and 5 make up 1 side, left or right, of a complete mount. So basically for a complete set of all mounts you would need 2 of each of 1-8. I hope that make more sense.
That's as clear as mud!
 
  #10  
Old 10-23-2018, 05:03 AM
buba 11
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Originally Posted by rocco7869 View Post
Position 1 is the two front upper mounts, position 5 is the 2 front lower mounts under the radiator, Position 2 and 6 make up both sides upper and lower 2nd from the front under driver feet. Position 3 and 7 are upper and lower both sides under rear of cab and 4 and 8 are the rear most upper and lower. 1 thru 4 are all upper parts of the mount, 5 thru 8 are all the lower parts. 1 and 5 make up 1 side, left or right, of a complete mount. So basically for a complete set of all mounts you would need 2 of each of 1-8. I hope that make more sense.
Thanks for that chuck but honestly, I think I am more confused, diagrams I am looking at do not show what you are describing. What I really need is the part numbers for the upper and lower bushings for the middle and rear cab mounts, left and right for a f350, 2011, supercab. my truck has 3 sets of bushings, front, middle and rear. The ford diagram must have been designed by the same guy that brought us the sync system LOL!!!!!! Thanks chuck!

buba
 
  #11  
Old 10-24-2018, 11:40 AM
eastcoastweb
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All I know is that I DO NOT WANT to use the FORD OEM as they are garbage.
I'd rather go with aftermarket polyurethane/kevlar mounts then this disintegrating rubber Ford uses now after 2004 models.
 
  #12  
Old 10-24-2018, 02:38 PM
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Understand that! but did not want to replace all of them, I see mixed reviews about the aftermarket stuff and figured the stock ones lased 4 years and I hope to get a new truck next year. On my truck only 1 really rotted away but figured I would replace the middle and rear bushings anyway. Guess I am the optimist and figured that ford was making them out of something better these days
 
  #13  
Old 10-24-2018, 07:12 PM
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I have to eat my words about planning to go OEM. I can't remember the last time I didn't get an OEM part for repairs like this but the diesel shop I use for the lately never ending repairs has strongly advised against going OEM. They have been installing third party mounts on Ford's because of this issue. I took their recommendations and authorized them to fix it. It goes in Monday for new insulators and a new alternator (OEM) that failed on Oct 14. I already forgot what they said they use so I'll know that next Tuesday when I get the truck back. I just want the squeaking to be gone.
 
  #14  
Old 10-24-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by eastcoastweb View Post
All I know is that I DO NOT WANT to use the FORD OEM as they are garbage.
I'd rather go with aftermarket polyurethane/kevlar mounts then this disintegrating rubber Ford uses now after 2004 models.
You will ultimately regret going with poly body mounts. The ride sucks and really takes its toll on the trucks body. How many miles do you have? I replaced mine at 250k on my 2012.
 
  #15  
Old 10-24-2018, 08:40 PM
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112k miles only for me. Just bought the truck in July put 2k on it since then. If I am going to have to replace them every 100k that is crazy. One if even missing entirely and the others are almost dust.
 

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