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Highway cruising in boost

 
  #1  
Old 10-16-2018, 04:47 PM
Shawn_Laughlin
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Highway cruising in boost

ill start this the way I usually do. As some have read I have a 2004 f150 lariat,built block 5.4 3v,whipple 2.3 8psi kit (really 6 at sea level!) 4:56 gears and 35 tires. I have had this blower on for about to be 4 years give it take and itís always been a turd. Iím not exaggerating when I say the old oil burning motor has more power than this one,I swear to god. I canít even pull my 18í aluminum boat anymore. Hell I can barely do crap with it. Anyways I happened to notice some today that is maybe another clue to whatís going on. So Iím on the highway doing 65 or 70 and like Iíve mentioned In the past it ant decide wether to be in open or closed loop fueling and Iíve seen this many times in the past but I didnít think anything of it but I am in boost the whole time Iím trying around 65 and above. This canít be normal? The calculated load I know is not a tell all but Iím at 100 percent with hardly any throttle and I cruise at 100 and not any lower. My scan tool doesnít read above a 100 so I donít know. Iíve about had it with this junk and getting close to using this new motor and whipple as a 13 to 14,000 dollar weight to hold my trot line. I brought it to triangle speed shop a few years ago and he said that the tune didnít look that bad but I have no idea what he looked at. I wish a meteor would slam into it honestly. Any thoughts?
 
  #2  
Old 10-16-2018, 07:49 PM
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Yeah that ain't right, that truck should be able to cruise at 60 with about 1/32 of throttle. How much boost is it making at that speed? Are you using the stock MAF meter? If so that could be your problem or it be fubar. Any codes set?
 
  #3  
Old 10-17-2018, 08:22 AM
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Between 1 or 2 lbs. Iím not at deep into the boost but I knew that wasnít right. I thought Maf myself 3 years ago and bought a new one and the same thing. I didnít have a scan took before building the new motor so I have nothing to compare to and I donít know anyone who has anything close to what I have so Iím not sure whatís normal or not. Like load. Im 100 percent while accelerating up to 30 mph but Iím not getting on it,itís just a normal give it a little gas. Load has seemed to have changed since I looked at it last about a year ago,I got tired of messing with it. But I have to get this thing right bc itís going on 4-5 years and like I said itís about to become an anchor.
 
  #4  
Old 10-17-2018, 08:24 AM
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And absolutely no codes. Before the whipple tune it would throw a code easy but now you canít get it to throw a code unless it has a severe misfire
 
  #5  
Old 10-17-2018, 08:42 AM
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With the old motor at a certain throttle position it surges like I am repeatedly pressing depressing the pedal. And i just noticed it with the new motor. Iím wondering if itís the throttle body or tps. Iíve cleaned the tb so a cleaning isnít going to take care of it. Iíve also had it do this next symptom a couple time. I will be driving and itís got the power of a turd and then without pressing the pedal any further the rpmís jump up and runs probably like it should but only lasts for a couple to few seconds and rpms drop back and it back to turd status. I thought it had something to do with the transmission so when the Harvey floods came my trans got water in it and I personally built it with just about every heavy duty part you can get for it and hoped that was the problem. I was relieved that I built an automatic trans that actually worked great but disappointed that wasnít the problem. I went through all the vacuum lines and made sure it was right and even changed up some things and didnít make a difference. spending Iím sure thousands of dollars for a performance shop to look at is out of the question right now and for te seeable future so I turn to you guys for help. Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 10-17-2018, 03:42 PM
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I forgot to list this as well as it has to do with rpm fluctuations. At one time,bc it just feels like itís missing sometimes,I would Try to hold a certain rpm with in park and I press the pedal just a little and the rpm come up and itís kinda rough but then the rpm go up about 400 or more rpm without me pressing any more on the pedal and it smooths out. Iím sure this has something to do with the way itís running. Iím really starting to think tb or tps and since the tb comes with a tps I mine as well just buy the tb. I just did it and maybe itís got a bad spot in the tps but Iím just tired of throwing money at it hoping itís going to correct it.
 
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Old 10-17-2018, 08:30 PM
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You can test the TPS with a simple multimeter, unplug the electrical connector and measure the resistance as you rotate the throttle blade through it's full range.. it should be smooth with no dead spots. An old analog meter is best for this
 
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:38 AM
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Iíve tested the tpps but havenít tested the tps. Here is something Iíve noticed and I just thought of it. When the tb blade opens when the pedal pressed the blade when it gets to it open position itís erratic like it shakes. It doesnít stay still it I guess another way of saying it is it jerks. Iím going to change the plugs, injectors amd throttle body this weekend and see how that goes and eat ham sandwiches the rest of the week lol.
 
  #9  
Old 10-18-2018, 08:42 AM
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I understand that commnaded,relative and absolute throttle position arenít going to be 0 - 100 and so I understand all that but from what Iíve read most people with these trucks their absolute is around 90 max and mine is about 75 percent. Should any of these throttle positions,relative,commanded or absolute be pretty close to same values when looking at them on a scan tool?
 
  #10  
Old 10-24-2018, 03:41 PM
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I have a KB unit on a V10 and in windy conditions when I'm driving into wind I can see 5 psi.

Normal flat driving on cruise I'm not in any boost.

Maybe make sure your bypass valve is functioning correctly. Vacuum holds it open and the throttle body governs boost. If it's not open enough the blower cannot get enough air to boost.

Also check the IAC as it may be malfunctioning ...allowing air past the throttle body and helping blower get air.

these guys cannot boost unless bypass valve is closed. I'm leaning toward a stuck bypass valve or low vacuum causing bypass valve to close.

I have gobs of power, but unless you have an intercooler or water meth the hot air the blower puts out will negate alot of power. Mine threw 250 degree air to motor at full boost and 70 degrees outside.

I fixed mine with water meth and a additive that prevents corrosion added.

Hot air will severely retard motor and knock will too. That will make the blower eye candy. Get cool air to motor and that eye candy will put an extra 75 to 100 hp to the setup.
 
  #11  
Old 10-24-2018, 03:46 PM
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Forgot:

Your intake air temp sensor in MAF does no good and will cause alot of issues. My IAT sensor is in intake manifold. It reads actual IAT.

If your is in MAF than the pcm thinks the air temp is 80 degrees and not the 250 degrees the motor is seeing. This will make timing advanced with hot air. Causing knock sensor to activate and retard motor. Causing poor power or broken rods and or pistons.
 
  #12  
Old 10-25-2018, 09:32 AM
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Thanks rock for the reply. Before installing I seen a guy on YouTube drill and tap the intake to install an iat sensor but I did not do but I can see thatís a mod I should probably do. Mine is intercooled and pump is working like normal. The engine and blower have less than 20,000 miles and engine vacuum is 22inhg. The bypass valve Iíve watched when my dad started the motor and it seems to operate the way it should. When I built new motor I didnít buy new cams which I wish I would have along with heads but itís too late for heads as there isnít enough room without major work. Iím going to do a compression test and leak down this weekend even though it shouldnít be that as Iím not seeing any misfires. When hold say 1200 rpms in Park or neutral I can hear that itís not right and the exhaust is popping and then the rpms come up quite a bit and runs smooth. The other day while on the highway cruising about 70-75 it felt like if I was pressing the brake and letting off over and over like I was dragging something then not then dragging then not.One of these is what I think is bad,the Throttle body,accelerator pedal sensor,injectors or tps or maybe 2 of them. Thatís a lot of money to throw at it and not be the problem but what can you do when there are no codes? Only that. I know all of these can be tested with a multimeter and I have but thatís not a tell all I know from experience. Plus when I get off work at 3:30 Iím building fishing rods and refining catalytic converts. I never stop but Iím going to have to so I can get this thing figured out. I contacted whipple support and they have started a case and got all my info and are looking into it so letís hope they can find something bc they seem like they want to help. Thanks again
 
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:30 AM
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Since your intercooled there won't be too much difference between iat at maf and intake unless your intercooler system is sized too small. Air to water is good but can be heat soaked at low speeds towing or low speed boots situations.

My KB system has a boost lockout. Basically it mechanically locks bypass valve open. If you can do that with the whipple bypass valve I suggest doing that. This will isolate the issue by eliminating the blower as a cause. Or if things get better with bypass locked open then you can concentrateon the blower issue.

I'm betting that the blower is not issue. Low power and popping gives me the gut feeling it's a timing issue. Your 3V with variable cam timing, right?

Recommend checking TDC and cam position. I'm thinking timing chains are off a tooth and variable timing is making the motor surge. I'm not a 3V expert so my only recommendation is to confirm proper timing.

Just because there is no check engine light does not mean the motor is not misfiring. You can use Torque Pro an android app and a Bluetooth obd2 adapter to look at misfire counts on each cylinder. It will be obvious if the pcm is seeing misfires and not throwing a code.
 
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:07 AM
Shawn_Laughlin
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The mechanical boost bypass is something I didnít know anyone did. That would be something to lol into for sure. Yes sir it is variable timing. I thought I was done with all chain jumping and it actually happens not 10,000 miles into new engine so I replaced the plastic hydraulic tensioners with the metal ratcheting ones.

I had had thought that maybe the timing had jumped a tooth maybe on both sides but with no codes itís got me boggled. But I had not thought about the vct causing it to surge which makes sense now that I think about it so thanks a bunch on that.

ive been thinking about checking and thats what I think Iíll do and Iíll just borrow the old dodge diesel from my dad. What has kept from pulling a valve cover and looking was the fact that since the first startup it hasnít ran right and I know I said it jump a tooth with new motor but it was actually the guides had broke and had not jumped a tooth. And when i replaces guides and tensioners I double Triple checked but I couodve still somehow after doing this 6 times counting old motor couldíve installed it a tooth off.

If you happen to know or anyone else that reads this can look at your timing is at rest with koeo? My default when looking at my scan tool is 10 degrees. Thatís one thing I have searched to the ends of the earth and can find no info on.
 
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:09 AM
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I have looked at the misfire monitor with dashcommand and it does misfire just not enough to set a code and sometimes I can feel it but the pcm doesnít see it
 

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