ill start this the way I usually do. As some have read I have a 2004 f150 lariat,built block 5.4 3v,whipple 2.3 8psi kit (really 6 at sea level!) 4:56 gears and 35 tires. I have had this blower on for about to be 4 years give it take and it’s always been a turd. I’m not exaggerating when I say the old oil burning motor has more power than this one,I swear to god. I can’t even pull my 18’ aluminum boat anymore. Hell I can barely do crap with it. Anyways I happened to notice some today that is maybe another clue to what’s going on. So I’m on the highway doing 65 or 70 and like I’ve mentioned In the past it ant decide wether to be in open or closed loop fueling and I’ve seen this many times in the past but I didn’t think anything of it but I am in boost the whole time I’m trying around 65 and above. This can’t be normal? The calculated load I know is not a tell all but I’m at 100 percent with hardly any throttle and I cruise at 100 and not any lower. My scan tool doesn’t read above a 100 so I don’t know. I’ve about had it with this junk and getting close to using this new motor and whipple as a 13 to 14,000 dollar weight to hold my trot line. I brought it to triangle speed shop a few years ago and he said that the tune didn’t look that bad but I have no idea what he looked at. I wish a meteor would slam into it honestly. Any thoughts?

Between 1 or 2 lbs. I’m not at deep into the boost but I knew that wasn’t right. I thought Maf myself 3 years ago and bought a new one and the same thing. I didn’t have a scan took before building the new motor so I have nothing to compare to and I don’t know anyone who has anything close to what I have so I’m not sure what’s normal or not. Like load. Im 100 percent while accelerating up to 30 mph but I’m not getting on it,it’s just a normal give it a little gas. Load has seemed to have changed since I looked at it last about a year ago,I got tired of messing with it. But I have to get this thing right bc it’s going on 4-5 years and like I said it’s about to become an anchor.

And absolutely no codes. Before the whipple tune it would throw a code easy but now you can’t get it to throw a code unless it has a severe misfire

With the old motor at a certain throttle position it surges like I am repeatedly pressing depressing the pedal. And i just noticed it with the new motor. I’m wondering if it’s the throttle body or tps. I’ve cleaned the tb so a cleaning isn’t going to take care of it. I’ve also had it do this next symptom a couple time. I will be driving and it’s got the power of a turd and then without pressing the pedal any further the rpm’s jump up and runs probably like it should but only lasts for a couple to few seconds and rpms drop back and it back to turd status. I thought it had something to do with the transmission so when the Harvey floods came my trans got water in it and I personally built it with just about every heavy duty part you can get for it and hoped that was the problem. I was relieved that I built an automatic trans that actually worked great but disappointed that wasn’t the problem. I went through all the vacuum lines and made sure it was right and even changed up some things and didn’t make a difference. spending I’m sure thousands of dollars for a performance shop to look at is out of the question right now and for te seeable future so I turn to you guys for help. Thanks

I forgot to list this as well as it has to do with rpm fluctuations. At one time,bc it just feels like it’s missing sometimes,I would Try to hold a certain rpm with in park and I press the pedal just a little and the rpm come up and it’s kinda rough but then the rpm go up about 400 or more rpm without me pressing any more on the pedal and it smooths out. I’m sure this has something to do with the way it’s running. I’m really starting to think tb or tps and since the tb comes with a tps I mine as well just buy the tb. I just did it and maybe it’s got a bad spot in the tps but I’m just tired of throwing money at it hoping it’s going to correct it.

I’ve tested the tpps but haven’t tested the tps. Here is something I’ve noticed and I just thought of it. When the tb blade opens when the pedal pressed the blade when it gets to it open position it’s erratic like it shakes. It doesn’t stay still it I guess another way of saying it is it jerks. I’m going to change the plugs, injectors amd throttle body this weekend and see how that goes and eat ham sandwiches the rest of the week lol.

I understand that commnaded,relative and absolute throttle position aren’t going to be 0 - 100 and so I understand all that but from what I’ve read most people with these trucks their absolute is around 90 max and mine is about 75 percent. Should any of these throttle positions,relative,commanded or absolute be pretty close to same values when looking at them on a scan tool?

Thanks rock for the reply. Before installing I seen a guy on YouTube drill and tap the intake to install an iat sensor but I did not do but I can see that’s a mod I should probably do. Mine is intercooled and pump is working like normal. The engine and blower have less than 20,000 miles and engine vacuum is 22inhg. The bypass valve I’ve watched when my dad started the motor and it seems to operate the way it should. When I built new motor I didn’t buy new cams which I wish I would have along with heads but it’s too late for heads as there isn’t enough room without major work. I’m going to do a compression test and leak down this weekend even though it shouldn’t be that as I’m not seeing any misfires. When hold say 1200 rpms in Park or neutral I can hear that it’s not right and the exhaust is popping and then the rpms come up quite a bit and runs smooth. The other day while on the highway cruising about 70-75 it felt like if I was pressing the brake and letting off over and over like I was dragging something then not then dragging then not.One of these is what I think is bad,the Throttle body,accelerator pedal sensor,injectors or tps or maybe 2 of them. That’s a lot of money to throw at it and not be the problem but what can you do when there are no codes? Only that. I know all of these can be tested with a multimeter and I have but that’s not a tell all I know from experience. Plus when I get off work at 3:30 I’m building fishing rods and refining catalytic converts. I never stop but I’m going to have to so I can get this thing figured out. I contacted whipple support and they have started a case and got all my info and are looking into it so let’s hope they can find something bc they seem like they want to help. Thanks again

The mechanical boost bypass is something I didn’t know anyone did. That would be something to lol into for sure. Yes sir it is variable timing. I thought I was done with all chain jumping and it actually happens not 10,000 miles into new engine so I replaced the plastic hydraulic tensioners with the metal ratcheting ones.

I had had thought that maybe the timing had jumped a tooth maybe on both sides but with no codes it’s got me boggled. But I had not thought about the vct causing it to surge which makes sense now that I think about it so thanks a bunch on that.

ive been thinking about checking and thats what I think I’ll do and I’ll just borrow the old dodge diesel from my dad. What has kept from pulling a valve cover and looking was the fact that since the first startup it hasn’t ran right and I know I said it jump a tooth with new motor but it was actually the guides had broke and had not jumped a tooth. And when i replaces guides and tensioners I double Triple checked but I couodve still somehow after doing this 6 times counting old motor could’ve installed it a tooth off.

If you happen to know or anyone else that reads this can look at your timing is at rest with koeo? My default when looking at my scan tool is 10 degrees. That’s one thing I have searched to the ends of the earth and can find no info on.

I have looked at the misfire monitor with dashcommand and it does misfire just not enough to set a code and sometimes I can feel it but the pcm doesn’t see it