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ok.. so where should I hook up the pcv so it sucks out of the valve cover? Because that's where my pcv was attached. Maybe I had it hooked up wrong.. apparently.
Crap, you're right. My PCV system isn't sucking.
Removed pcv, put my finger over it's hole, nothing. Removed pcv and put my finger over that hose, not sucking air at all...
I'll check the whole hose itself, but if it's clear.. then what should I do. that would be a carb thing.
Chock is straight up. So that parts good.
LOL you have the PVC hose going to the carbs bowl vent.
IIRC the PVC goes to a vacuum tree to the rear and low of the carb.
Wait mine goes to the EGR plate that has a port for it.
Now that bowl vent: Do you have a vacuum hose routing sticker on the radiator support? If so look it over on how the lines should be run.
On my 81 it has a hose on the bowl vent that goes to the charcoal canister(s) below the battery (2 canisters for duel fuel tanks).
This hose has a tee and that tee goes to the PCV as mine has a 2nd port on top and that is how the fumes get pulled back into the motor to be burned.
Now mine should also have a tempature type valve just off the bowl vent inline of this hose.
You can just make out this valve (blue/white) behind the fuel filter.
My truck should also have some electrical switches so the bowl vents at a certain time but my wiring & switches were bad so I just used that blue/white thing.
I have seen posts if that bowl vent is left open you can get gas fumes in the cab or garage when sitting.
Also some have had hot start issues but I think that was more on the v8 motors.
Dave ----
Hah, I missed the picture where you have your fuel bowl vent hooked up to the PCV. That certainly won't help.
Yes, just hook it up to one of the big ports on your vacuum tree.
It originally had an on/off switch/valve tied in with the EGR, but since your EGR is gone, just hook it to direct engine vacuum. That should help with your PCV and your oil all over the valve cover issues.
That may or may not help with any mileage issues. But it's definitely an issue to fix! More tied in with engine health and longevity.
Yes run that hose from the bowl vent to that port with the cap (that looks like it is cracked?) as that is the EGR plate mine is to.
That other hose on the vacuum tree where does it go, power brakes?
Check the rest of the caps on that tree. I think there is 1 more port down & back we cant see and that always has a bad/leaking cap.
I find short vacuum hose with a short bolt in the end as a plug works the best. They fit tights and will not blow off if there is a carb back fire like the cap do and they last a lot longer.
Dave ----
edit: I see all the carb carb vacuum ports are caped off. Do you have a vacuum line to the dist?
Maybe I got to back up what year is this truck / motor?
Does the dist. have a place to hook a vacuum line to? Take a picture of the dist. so we can see what you are working work.
Man he must be in the garage with his phone posting pictures and updates!
My old fingers cant type that fast on my laptop and find my pictures to post LOL
Dave ----
Yes, thanks guys. That fixed my breather cap form putting out smoke and shiz.
I'm at work but I go out in the parking lot to mess with her.
Ok, a friend just walked by. Told me to rev it. He said my advance isn't moving. Then he sucked on the hose and the advance does move.
Following the hose up, this is where it's plugged into. There is no suction on this spot for advance. Where should I plug it into?
wtf though.. this is WHY I took it someplace... and yes, that hose cap Fuzz, was cracked wide open.
This is what people were referencing earlier. Need to check both the mechanical advance AND the vacuum advance. They work together though independent of one another. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance port on the carburetor. Rev the engine up and check that the ignition timing spools up to spec smoothly and back down again. On a V8 it's 34° to 38° BTDC, I don't know what it is supposed to be on a 6 cylinder but you get the idea. Then reconnect the vacuum hose to distributor, and timing should advance even more when revved up to a high RPM.
When or while this is straightened out rebuild the carburetor, install and set it up by the book, tune it carefully, make sure the carb float height is right and jetted correctly, and the rest of it. Most people find a lot of what they have to do to get things running right on these old trucks is straightening out the mistakes of previous "golden screwdrivers" that went before.
Run a tank of fuel, using your GPS to track the total mileage. Then do the math by dividing your GPS miles with your next fill up volume. After you do that about 10 times, you'll find that the numbers will be different each time, and that they will vary greatly. Mileage depends on a lot of factors. Aerodynamics, mechanical performance parameters, weight, driving style, and even different tire tread can make a difference.
For sure. Yeah once she's good. I don't expect miracles from what it is.. but when it's about half, you notice it.
Here is what my plugs looked like. 6mo old.
thanks guys.
- Replaced air filter (needed, my fault even though it was on my google doc to do).
- Replaced spark plugs
- Have proper PCV setup
- 195 thermostat installed
- Deleted a vacuum leak.
- Cleaned up the oil puke from all the blowby build up.
Don't worry about vacuum advance until you're certain the mechanical advance is working correctly. As far as we know this hasn't been done. Don't get ahead of yourself.
10-18-2018, 03:16 PM
