Sonic test your block and see if it will take an .050" overbore.

If yes, bore it.

Get a 428 crank and rods, or a 428 crank and rods out of an actual 410 Mercury. Rods can come out of any other regular production FE except 352/360. Cranks are available aftermarket.

Get 410 Mercury pistons, or if that confuses the parts person, get pistons for a 1970s Ford pickup 390. Confirm the compression height to be approximately 1.66".

Have the entire rotating assembly balanced.

So now you have a bored and stroked 352 which displaces 410.

You can't "make" it a Mercury only, '66 & '67 410.

This info is from the 1960s car FE engines:

FE Series Engine Specification Chart

428s and 410s are a bit hard to find, so you can get an aftermarket crank. If you do find something with a 428 crank, it is either a 428 or 410, or possibly something cobbed together by someone else previously. If it is a 428 or 410, just buy that whole motor lock stock and barrel, and work with that.

 

Can not use 352/360 rods
Can use 390 rods

 

Right, like I said, "Rods can come out of any other regular production FE except 352/360"

 

Turning a 352 into a 390 = Relatively easy and not terribly expensive, and is a noticeable difference in power over a 352.
Turning a 352 into a 410 = More machine work required, finding a 428 crank is getting harder and more expensive, there's not a lot of difference over the 390 in power.

A good friend of mine went the 410 route, I chose the 390 route. In the end we both agree the 410 wasn't worth it.

 

There's no more machine work required vs doing a 390, It's a straight forward swap. And there is a difference in torque output vs the 390. But using an aftermarket crank is really the way to go unless one happens to have a 3.98 factory crank readily available to start with.

 

Scat cranks and rods have a great reputation. A 4.25 crank turns a factory bore 352 into 427 cubes.

 

I built a 410 and it runs well. That said, I would never do it again.

By the time I had the crank purchased ($250), ground, rods sized, forged pistons bought (only option to get the compression around 9.3:1 to run pump gas), and had the assembly balanced, I was within a couple hundred dollars of a 445 stoker kit.

If you want more than a 390, just get the 445 kit.

 

Most people that build a 390 won't have the rotating assembly balanced.

If you build a 410, it's pretty much mandatory - so yes, it takes more machine work.

 

Not if you have the flywheel or flexplate.

 

It's been years, but isn't one externally balanced and the other internally? This is indeed what I meant by more machine work. I think he had to do something different with his flywheel because of this as well.

 

 

If you have the flywheel/flexplate for the 410/428 crank, you don't need to have it rebalanced.

 

Buy the stroker kit, it'll have all the correct parts, crank, rods, and pistons.

 

Yep. Once the block is tested, cleaned, and machined as necessary you'll know what piston size to order. Then get with a builder or someone who can balance the rotating assembly and order the kit all at once. Just to throw out ball park numbers for thought incase you want to research further....inspecting and reconditioning a used crank and set of rods will be around $500 ish. Might cost more if you want a used crank from a 428 depending on what it cost to buy. Buying an aftermarket new crank and rods will be around $1000 ish. Either way you'll still want to balance the assembly in some way.

4.25 stroke is not too much for a 352, btw. You can actually go to 4.375 stroke but at that point you have to start being careful for things like rods hitting the cam tunnel.