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New to me 6.0!!

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Old 10-13-2018, 12:39 AM
Fordrocks689
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New to me 6.0!!

Hey guys my names danny I'm coming from the f150 forums, I just got a f250 6.0l and I have a TON of questions!

Right now my main issue is it's just not running right. It's got a violent shake and no power. I was able to drive it home struggling to keep 20mph. Blowing Black and white smoke.

Dtcs showed cylinder #4 injector low circuit, a code for the boost Solinoid I think p0046? And cylinder #8 and #2 glow plugs.

I've done injector test with Autel scanner, I can hear 4 loud injectors click, and the other 4 I have to shove my head in the engine to hear them and they are still very very faint.

The ficm at "key on engine off" is 48.5
After starting at idle the volts move from 48-49 during throttle.

I cleared all codes and started the truck again. It started rough but after about a min of idling it revd up by itself and then actually sounded like it was running ALOT better and better throttle reaponse. But still had a rough shake.

Can anyone out there recommend any steps for me to take? Thank you!
 
  #2  
Old 10-13-2018, 03:59 AM
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Welcome to the 6.0L world.

What is your FICM Logic Power (LPower) value?

Sounds like you need to inspect the #4 injector harness, but probably need to replace the injector. As far as the 4 "weak" injectors, please post which ones have the faint sound during the buzz testing. Change those bad glow plugs.

Code P0046 is set when a short to ground, open, or short to power is identified in the VGTCV (turbo control valve) or wiring between the PCM and VGTCV. This circuit is a continuously monitored circuit that takes less than 1 second to set. First thing to do is to verify that the VGT actuator is fully plugged in and that the connector and wiring are not damaged.

After checking that, just to be thorough, look for any signs of a boost leak or a "charge-air-cooler" (CAC) leak. Repair anything you find that needs it.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:09 AM
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If you post a bunch of pictures, we can look to see if there's any odd things installed... There are, for example, bad oil filters and filter caps commonly used. Post about 5 pics of the engine bay from different angles plus any other pics of the truck you want.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:56 AM
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Size:  1.14 MB. This image was with the truck running.

The weak injectors arnt from the initial key on buzzing test. It's with the injector test from my scanner. It doesn't specify which injectors it is testing, I just have to listen for each click. How would I know which ones they are?
 
  #5  
Old 10-13-2018, 10:57 AM
Fordrocks689
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Originally Posted by mattdoc88
If you post a bunch of pictures, we can look to see if there's any odd things installed... There are, for example, bad oil filters and filter caps commonly used. Post about 5 pics of the engine bay from different angles plus any other pics of the truck you want.
I'll get some pics today! Thanks!
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 11:51 AM
xcrsp440
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Can you scan for cylinder misfires?
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by xcrsp440
Can you scan for cylinder misfires?
It shows the option on the scanner but misfires showed 0 the whole time
 
  #8  
Old 10-13-2018, 12:41 PM
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Size:  954.6 KB any ford techs know what this tag means?
 
  #9  
Old 10-13-2018, 12:55 PM
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Size:  1,016.0 KB here are some engine shots
 
  #10  
Old 10-13-2018, 03:06 PM
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Size:  1.09 MB here's a shot of cylinders while running and some reving of the engine.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:30 PM
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Just looking at the engine pics.you have a aftermarket oil cap not really good. somebody has done work on the vgt solenoid wiring. I'd look at that and probably clean the battery terminals.You got some green corrosion around you terminal on the batteries probably want to clean that up. low voltage is not good for ficm or starter.
 
  #12  
Old 10-13-2018, 05:16 PM
Fordrocks689
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Originally Posted by Visurveyor
Just looking at the engine pics.you have a aftermarket oil cap not really good. somebody has done work on the vgt solenoid wiring. I'd look at that and probably clean the battery terminals.You got some green corrosion around you terminal on the batteries probably want to clean that up. low voltage is not good for ficm or starter.
Why is the oil cap bad? I am Currently removing the batteries and cleaning wires and terminals. Next I am going to remove the ficm to see which style I have and if it can be rebuilt if needed.

Side note, after clearing my check engine codes the truck still has a very bad shake but it's actually drivable!! I can hear the turbo as well although it doesn't register on the boost gauge. I couldn't hear it before. It ran a lot better after I cleared all codes and restarted.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordrocks689 View Post
Attachment 262213. This image was with the truck running.

The weak injectors arnt from the initial key on buzzing test. It's with the injector test from my scanner. It doesn't specify which injectors it is testing, I just have to listen for each click. How would I know which ones they are?
They buzz in numerical (sequential) order.

After market oil filters often use their own cap. It was done to get around patents. The aftermarket has generally been inferior to the OEM filters, and if you go back in with another brand filter (especially w/ an OEM filter) without changing the cap, you will get bypassing of the filter and possibly even a no-start since the drain valve won't be pushed down (closed) all the way. Best to stick w/ OEM filters and they require an OEM filter cap.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:29 PM
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Looks like #4 and 7 injectors are suspect. The tough part is that the FICM compensates for weak injectors and can hide injector problems. Go to Ford to get Ford injectors. Some of the aftermarket rebuilds don’t hold up well.
why do you want to remove the FICM?

It is amazing how much better one fresh injector can make the motor run.
 
  #15  
Old 10-13-2018, 07:39 PM
Fordrocks689
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Originally Posted by bismic
They buzz in numerical (sequential) order.

After market oil filters often use their own cap. It was done to get around patents. The aftermarket has generally been inferior to the OEM filters, and if you go back in with another brand filter (especially w/ an OEM filter) without changing the cap, you will get bypassing of the filter and possibly even a no-start since the drain valve won't be pushed down (closed) all the way. Best to stick w/ OEM filters and they require an OEM filter cap.
Oh wow ok thanks for that info!!
 

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