2 barrel carbs - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Notices
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

2 barrel carbs

  #16  
Old 10-11-2018, 08:40 PM
weldworks
weldworks is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 16
weldworks is starting off with a positive reputation.
The auto choke carb appears that it will clear everything.
The manual choke pull is on the right side of the carb.

With everything else I have been reading about the auto chokes, I am going to go with it.
The heat stove will be easy to make, especially since I am redoing the rest of the exhaust. I am going to go as suggested above with ramhorn manifolds.
 
  #17  
Old 10-12-2018, 04:50 AM
Tedster9's Avatar
Tedster9
Tedster9 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 13,881
Tedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputation
Does the motor run? From your previous posts it's not clear. There are some show stoppers that you should beware of. For one thing, the Y Block has solid lifters, not hydraulic, and the upper valvetrain is also known for poor oiling & stuck valves &c. Check valve lash before trying to fire it and that all the valves are opening and closing as they should, check for bent pushrods. A separate small gas tank to feed the carb as from a boat or spare fuel can is a good plan to avoid stale or soured gasoline and sediment from rusty tank. Something like Marvel's oil in both the fuel and crankcase oil will help free sticky rings and valves. Maybe you know all this stuff already.
 
  #18  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:24 PM
weldworks
weldworks is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 16
weldworks is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Does the motor run? From your previous posts it's not clear. There are some show stoppers that you should beware of. For one thing, the Y Block has solid lifters, not hydraulic, and the upper valvetrain is also known for poor oiling & stuck valves &c. Check valve lash before trying to fire it and that all the valves are opening and closing as they should, check for bent pushrods. A separate small gas tank to feed the carb as from a boat or spare fuel can is a good plan to avoid stale or soured gasoline and sediment from rusty tank. Something like Marvel's oil in both the fuel and crankcase oil will help free sticky rings and valves. Maybe you know all this stuff already.
Really appreciate the heads up on stuff. All I know about y blocks is what I have been reading the last couple weeks, so I am going to try my best to stay humble, and absorb all the information I can.
Been a part of A LOT of different forums and so far this has been the most open and friendly one by far, seems like a good group of people here.
I am a machinist, fabricator, welder, mechanic, own and run a machine shop. I do mainly industrial and marine stuff these days.

I have not had it running yet, but I did pull the valve covers and turn it by hand, engine turns over by hand nicely and everything moves as it should. I was planning on verifying valve train oil flow as soon as its running. Should get a chance to get it running this weekend. The p.o. claimed he had it running of the original tank until the filter plugged up with rust. The in cab tank is very rusty, which doesnt really break my heart as ide rather have one under the truck. He started installing an in bed tank for it and I am going to roll with that for the time being since its already installed, empty, and clean inside. Step 1 is just get it running, moving, and stopping on its own. Going into this, I hadnt really had an engine game plan at all, I have several other engines that were all potential candidates. But the more I get into the y block stuff, the more I just wanna keep it going with this 292. If its the original engine, down the road I will pull it and rebuild it a bit more hot. If its not the original engine, I will likely keep it running and get another y block to build and when its ready swap it out.
 
  #19  
Old 10-12-2018, 02:54 PM
Tedster9's Avatar
Tedster9
Tedster9 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 13,881
Tedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputation
Yep, there is a lot of archived stuff here at FTE and other sites. Ford shop manuals were published every year, are available in reprint form or on disc, these are really helpful. General maintenance manuals from the same era are good too. Motors Repair Manual were real good. I'm pretty slow, if I read 2 or 3 or more different manuals, they are all a bit different. Between them it sometimes makes sense (after a few years ha ha)

There are some "gotchas", like anything else. It pays to do your homework. "Numbers matching" is kind of a GM thing, Ford didn't really work that way. Date codes will determine whether a component is likely/possibly original I suppose. 1964 trucks got C3TF (1963) dated carburetors for example. So the engine is like as not original or close enough. Have you done a compression test? Might be a good idea before getting in too deep.

http://www.ford-y-block.com/technical.htm
 
  #20  
Old 10-12-2018, 03:05 PM
weldworks
weldworks is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 16
weldworks is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Yep, there is a lot of archived stuff here at FTE and other sites. Ford shop manuals were published every year, are available in reprint form or on disc, these are really helpful. General maintenance manuals from the same era are good too. Motors Repair Manual were real good. I'm pretty slow, if I read 2 or 3 or more different manuals, they are all a bit different. Between them it sometimes makes sense (after a few years ha ha)

There are some "gotchas", like anything else, it pays to your homework. "Numbers matching" is kind of a GM thing, Ford didn't really work that way. Date codes will determine whether a component is likely/possibly original I suppose. 1964 trucks got C3TF (1963) dated carburetors for example.

Y
A very nice looking 1960 shop manual came with the truck. Honestly I havent gotten a chance to thumb through it, havent even really gotten to do much at all to the truck besides look at it prior to buying it and turning the engine over by hand. This weekend (hopefully) will be the first time I really get to get into it.

Bummer on engine matching, not really a biggie though I suppose, just kinda a neat thing. It has the original flatbed on it which is pretty cool.
 
  #21  
Old 10-14-2018, 05:25 PM
Tedster9's Avatar
Tedster9
Tedster9 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 13,881
Tedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputationTedster9 has a superb reputation
So didja fire it up?!
 
  #22  
Old 10-14-2018, 10:09 PM
weldworks
weldworks is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 16
weldworks is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
So didja fire it up?!
Ended up with a couple jobs that walked through the door....So i didnt get to work on the beast this weekend :/ going to try again tomorrow eve.
 
  #23  
Old 10-16-2018, 09:44 PM
weldworks
weldworks is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 16
weldworks is starting off with a positive reputation.
She runs. Fired right up actually. Valve train is getting oil, and she doesn't smoke at all.

This was with the manual carb that was on it with no choke hooked up at all and old fuel in the bowl. I just hooked up the fuel tank with a new inline filter and figured ide turn the key and see what would happen.

I have a kit for the auto choke carb and I'm going to rebuild it. I'll pop this one open and clean the bowl in the manual choke carb and roll with it for now until I find some ram horn manifolds and do the exhaust in this. I may just buy a set of the Mummert ones instead of trying to get good used ones.
 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.