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2005 F250 6.8L V10 - Build Thread

 
  #16  
Old 12-11-2018, 05:52 PM
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I've done twice on my truck and 8 quarts is exactly what you need along with the toilet paper filter. It's a very easy job.
 
  #17  
Old 12-11-2018, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
I've done twice on my truck and 8 quarts is exactly what you need along with the toilet paper filter. It's a very easy job.
Did you reuse the gasket or replace with permatex?
 
  #18  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post
As I'd stated before, I removed my headers from my truck.

Yes, I am mad at myself about spending the money only to undo it all. Such is life.


Im drunk and I missed the header part. Why did you pull them off?
 
  #19  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by eddienelson View Post
Im drunk and I missed the header part. Why did you pull them off?
They never sealed well around cylinder 1 and 2 despite torquing in the correct order, loosening, retorquing, yada yada. It was the gaskets. JBA gaskets just donít seem to compare to the OEM.

We have ave a new baby and I was tired of working on my truck until midnight every night after he went down, so I just reinstalled stainless studs and OEM manifolds and gaskets. Headers are perfectly flat, checked with a starret. I couldíve reinstalled them with some FelPros but I just didnít want to chance another leak and having to do it again. And the 3V manifolds are a great design, so it just wasnít worth it in the end.
 
  #20  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post


They never sealed well around cylinder 1 and 2 despite torquing in the correct order, loosening, retorquing, yada yada. It was the gaskets. JBA gaskets just donít seem to compare to the OEM.

We have ave a new baby and I was tired of working on my truck until midnight every night after he went down, so I just reinstalled stainless studs and OEM manifolds and gaskets. Headers are perfectly flat, checked with a starret. I couldíve reinstalled them with some FelPros but I just didnít want to chance another leak and having to do it again. And the 3V manifolds are a great design, so it just wasnít worth it in the end.
Sorry to hear that. Im glad you got it going though. If I was you Id post them and someone will buy them from you.
 
  #21  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by eddienelson View Post
Sorry to hear that. Im glad you got it going though. If I was you Id post them and someone will buy them from you.
Theyve been in marketplace for a week or so. No bites.
 
  #22  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post


Theyve been in marketplace for a week or so. No bites.
Its Christmas time. Give it time my friend. The right person will come along soon enough.
 
  #23  
Old 12-11-2018, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post
Anyone have any practical advice regarding trans fluid change? Considering I donít know history before 120k mark, but fluid looks great and no symptoms, Iím hesitant to do a full flush at the risk of causing an issue to pop up.

Im thinking of just dropping pan, changing filter and inline filter element, and adding back new fluid to replace the amount that drained. This has always been my approach on all my vehicles.

Thoughts?
I have done this method before but I would drain and refill the pan 2-3 times total with a short run in between. I would replace the total volume plus 2 quarts. The idea is pump new fluid in for 30 seconds to a minute and then drain the pan again to get more old fluid out.

There is a documented procedure out for the 4R100 although you have the 5R110. Pull the cooling return line off at the trans and pump the volume of the pan out. Refill the pan, and repeat this until you have removed the volume of the trans. The idea is the old fluid is dark and the new is bright red. Once the red comes out, you have completed the flush. Again, i am not sure if this technique works on the 5R110. Here is an article on it: 2004 F250 5.4L Transmission Flush
 
  #24  
Old 12-12-2018, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post


Did you reuse the gasket or replace with permatex?
The pan has a drain plug.
 
  #25  
Old 12-12-2018, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
The pan has a drain plug.
True...but that prevents you from changing the pan filter. I planned on dropping to pan to change both the pan and inline filters.
 
  #26  
Old 12-13-2018, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post


True...but that prevents you from changing the pan filter. I planned on dropping to pan to change both the pan and inline filters.
I believe the 2007 like mine only has a screen inside the pan that is not a serviceable item. You might look into it.
 
  #27  
Old 12-13-2018, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post


Thanks!

i assume it will still require the same amount of fluid and friction mod?
Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I used Royal Purple fluid which included the friction modifier. I didn't need to add any more modifier.

Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post
Anyone have any practical advice regarding trans fluid change? Considering I donít know history before 120k mark, but fluid looks great and no symptoms, Iím hesitant to do a full flush at the risk of causing an issue to pop up.

Im thinking of just dropping pan, changing filter and inline filter element, and adding back new fluid to replace the amount that drained. This has always been my approach on all my vehicles.

Thoughts?
08+ pan with newer style filter.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1358699-removed-stock-6-0-transmission-pan-installed-2008-6-4-trans-pan-and-ft-180-filter-2.html

Originally Posted by CousinJordo View Post

They never sealed well around cylinder 1 and 2 despite torquing in the correct order, loosening, retorquing, yada yada. It was the gaskets. JBA gaskets just donít seem to compare to the OEM.

We have ave a new baby and I was tired of working on my truck until midnight every night after he went down, so I just reinstalled stainless studs and OEM manifolds and gaskets. Headers are perfectly flat, checked with a starret. I couldíve reinstalled them with some FelPros but I just didnít want to chance another leak and having to do it again. And the 3V manifolds are a great design, so it just wasnít worth it in the end.
I wonder if the Remflex gaskets would have been better. I have a set of Remflex gaskets and Doug Thorley headers waiting for install and financial modivation.

Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
I believe the 2007 like mine only has a screen inside the pan that is not a serviceable item. You might look into it.
AFAIK the toilet paper filter doesn't capture more than 10%. Upgrading to the 08+ filter would be the far better option.
 
  #28  
Old 12-13-2018, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bently_Coop View Post
AFAIK the toilet paper filter doesn't capture more than 10%. Upgrading to the 08+ filter would be the far better option.
You might me right but that toilet paper roll is extremely dense. It has to filter better than 10%.
 
  #29  
Old 12-14-2018, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
You might me right but that toilet paper roll is extremely dense. It has to filter better than 10%.
The link I provided shows information posted by Mark Kovalsky FTE's resident transmission guru. I tend to trust what he's saying, especially with his background regarding the 4R100 and 5R110.
 
  #30  
Old 12-14-2018, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bently_Coop View Post
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1358699-removed-stock-6-0-transmission-pan-installed-2008-6-4-trans-pan-and-ft-180-filter-2.html

AFAIK the toilet paper filter doesn't capture more than 10%. Upgrading to the 08+ filter would be the far better option.
Thanks. This is one of the items on my list, and I would really like to do it. Just a few questions regarding this process, since it seems the fluid capacity changes slightly (based on Mark Kovalsky and Money-Pit posts).

1. Once you drop pan and inline, measure fluid, replace filters and pan, and refill with measured amount...is it best to let idle and shift through all gears (sitting still)?
2. I would then check trans fluid dipstick while running at operating temp.
3. If necessary, add more.

Is this correct?
 

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