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  #16  
Old 10-10-2018, 09:35 AM
Joshua Dishong
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Originally Posted by DieselDenny View Post
On a side note Josh,

I apologize for myself and the crew! It's great and sometimes vital information, but we love to fix and banter. FTE, It's a great place.

What are your thoughts<?

Denny
Honestly, if I had a penny for my thoughts...I'd have a lot bigger budget for the truck!

I want the TC fixed...that much I know. I'm tired of the noise. I need the 6.0 cooler, which is already sitting in my garage (went with a mishimoto), because I don't want to cook the tranny pulling my 9800# TT ... I got a quote on the labor from the shop I use to do the R&R on the TC and flush the system...figuring I could drop the pan and bolt in the new valve body and do the cooler swap at home in my garage....puts me into it for about $1600, and I'd be hoping for at least another 100K of worry free driving / towing...about 10-15% of which would be towing.

But if what I'm hearing is that its more likely than not that I'd experience a failure due to all the years and miles with this noisy converter on it...I'd be a fool to dump that kind of money in and then have it go up and take everything with it...

The tugger seems like it's well into tear down/re build territory...which would mean finding a new shop since all my shop will do with tranny work is R&R and install new/reman units...so probably some research I need to start on there just to find a local transmission shop I could trust to do the rebuild...

Then there's the just buy a built/stage 1, or I'd read a lot of good about the Built by Ford HD4R100's on here and some other sites...and have my shop put it in (they sell jasper only) ... but if that's what I'm going to do I might as well get every last obnoxiously lout mile out of this thing first...

Decisions...decisions...

 
  #17  
Old 10-10-2018, 09:57 AM
Dan V
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If you go with a John Woods valve body, and a decent converter, there is no reason NOT to try that first. The Tugger can be install in only the valve body and that can solve a bunch of issues. You don't have to do the pump mods in the Tugger, but....if you have the converter out, then the pump mods make sense. You can do all this yourself, if you are handy with the wrenches and take your time.
 
  #18  
Old 10-10-2018, 10:01 AM
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Wether you do a new trans now or later you still need to buy a converter at some point, Buy it now and slap it into your trans then drive it until it fails. Install the converter in your new trans.
 
  #19  
Old 10-10-2018, 10:30 AM
Joshua Dishong
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The R&R isn't something I'm willing to tackle in my driveway, without a lift or tranny jack....maybe in my younger/dumber/less children days...but not these days.
 
  #20  
Old 10-10-2018, 10:33 AM
Joshua Dishong
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo View Post
Wether you do a new trans now or later you still need to buy a converter at some point, Buy it now and slap it into your trans then drive it until it fails. Install the converter in your new trans.
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's always been my understanding that when the internals in the tranny go, they're going to take all that with them...especially the TC and cooler...
 
  #21  
Old 10-10-2018, 04:27 PM
DieselDenny
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Your correct to a point. The TC can be flushed and survive, but anything you bolt on new with this looming would be suspect for a new build. The 6.0 cooler is a flushable unit where the stock is trashed. That 6.0 cooler will not fix a thing until the thing is fixed, keep it in the box.

I was in your shoes 9 years ago. I even put a lawn chair out and stared the truck down for a few days to see what would be the correct maneuver.

I knew I could get at least another 100k out of the truck and since the original lasted to that vintage, it was my decision to do an R&R with an upgrade IE:Tugger and TC.

So glad I did. I drive it today with no worry or even a stint of worry about the trans.

If I was in the same boat today well over a 150k since the last repair. I wouldn't put the lawn chair out. I would just go straight ahead. The trucks are very rare, the new units are in the household buying price range, and the sense that I can strap on the fifth wheel and go anywhere is worth every single penny.

Honestly, living in Northern Michigan, I think my body will fall off the frame as the frame rolls by running like a top.

It's ultimately, your call. Get out your chair and stare it down. If you think your truck is worth more than the cost of a rebuild, says it all.

Denny
 
  #22  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:14 PM
Dan V
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Great words DieselDenny !
 
  #23  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:54 PM
DieselDenny
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Thanx Dan,

It is truly a hard decision to fix in terms of new or rebuild. I did alot of research on my guy before having mine done. He was rated top shelf, so I went for that option. I live in a small locality, so it would be tough to make the decision on a shop/person within a large area.

On a side note, when I rolled into his shop, I parked in front of his main bay (truck ahead was up on a lift, another super, I live in farm country). My symptoms were rattle can forever and getting louder. Left work that day and had a hard time grabbing reverse. Shifted it up and down a few times and it shuttered enough to get my *** out of my parking spot. Drove straight there. Forward gears seemed good but shift points were way elevated.

After I shut it off at the shop door, went in and told him what was going on. He brought out his big screen, plugged it into the ALDL port started the truck, selected all gears and said he found no issues. At that point I lost faith in him for not taking a road trip and logging.

He unplugged his scanner, put it reverse to move it out of the bay door. Drum roll please...........no reverse. He cycled into drive, Yep, you guessed it. Thing took a crap right there.

Help me push it he says. I asked him what the cost would be and he said, stock or just a bump, I asked for the bump and a warranty. He said unlimited miles and one year. I told him I wanted to Tug it and a converter for his price and 3 years. Shook hands/signed in writing. 1740ish.

I never did step up to push the truck. Him and his guys did that. I just watched his arrogance shrink like a spider on a hot stove. That convinced me this guy was spot on in terms of keeping his reputation.

Looking back, I was gifted the trans job. But this is the first place I've spoke of his demeanor.

In terms of paying 4000 for a trans or having one rebuilt for substantially less with a warranty, that's anyone's call. I know alot of engine builders, and they all say the same thing.
" It's generally never the bones, it's the organs"

Thanx for your time and conversation!

Denny
 
  #24  
Old 10-10-2018, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
The "marbles in a can" sound, is a cracked flexplate. Nothing with the TC.
Tim, the 99 trucks all had this and it was the convertor. If you still had warranty ford would change it. But you had to push it. It's a crap shot. But I would give it a try. I had bad luck with JW.
 
  #25  
Old 10-10-2018, 07:16 PM
Joshua Dishong
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Denny,

if if I could walk in a shop tomorrow and get that deal Iíd take it in a heart beat....I will be making some calls and seeing if I can find a local rebuilder I can talk to and get a quote, but when I had my last transmission rebuilt in my old suburban in this area a few years ago it was almost twice that for just a standard rebuild.

The truck is definitely worth it to me....my oldest will be ready for his first truck in 7/8 years and I intend to let him cut his teeth wrenching on this well before he starts driving it.
 
  #26  
Old 10-11-2018, 02:14 PM
Joshua Dishong
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I reached out to a couple diesel/powerstroke specific shops and 2 local transmission specialists for some quotes today haven't gotten everything back yet...did get to talking with one of them on the phone and he said he'd give it free inspection so probably going to do that next week...he said if it all checks out he'd recommend just doing the converter/cooler to fix the noise and keep it cool, but to pick a more economical converter....if it ends up failing inside 2 years/24kmi he'd refund the all the labor from this job towards a rebuild...

Honestly to me that sounds really fair, assuming he doesn't see/hear/feel anything to make him change his mind I end up only really risking the cost of the converter+cooler, so its got me on a hunt for one that's less expensive than the ~$1000 ones I was looking at...

Anybody have any experience / comment on either of these?

https://ktperformance.net/i-6685264-...iple-disk.html

https://www.dieselsite.com/4r100bill...converter.aspx

Any other suggestions to look at in the $700 and under price point?

 
  #27  
Old 10-11-2018, 03:13 PM
DieselDenny
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Hard call Josh!

Let's see what the trans guy comes up with for the inspection first to determine a benchmark. That's the point where you make decisions.

Is this trans inspection going to be invasive?? Or is it a guy with a string attached to a soup can.

If properly done, he should be pulling the pan. JS (I inspected my wife of 34 years with the pan off to make sure the valve body was pristine before going forward)

Denny
 
  #28  
Old 10-11-2018, 03:25 PM
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Just my opinion FWIW. It's your $$$ but I have found through the years that saving a couple of bucks is generally false economy. I know nothing about the "economy" TC's but if you are able to swing the money you are money ahead in the long run. I see that you plan on a billet converter down the road so why not save the money and extra hassle now?
 
  #29  
Old 10-11-2018, 03:48 PM
Joshua Dishong
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Denny,

test drive and pull the pan was what was discussed...

hydro,
I get that this is more of a bandaid, but tbh Iím not ever planning on pushing anywhere near 400rwhp let alone even 350 someday. Iím not trying to build a performance truck or even a heavy hauler, just something reliable to tow my camper and get me to and from work. I could ride it out and just see how far this goes, heard plenty of stories about people with noisy 99ís getting 150-200k out of their stock tranny...others blow them before they even hit 100k...mines still tbd...everyoneís different....

just replacing the TC and adding a 6.0 cooler could get me to 200k or it could blow up in my face at 107k...my thinking here is that if I do just the cooler and economical triple disc converter Iíll get rid of the failing noisy one, get better cooling, maybe a mild performance upgrade and Iím not risking ruining a 1400 converter if in the process of blowing it knocks the TC out too. I donít even know how many builders or remans would warranty a tranny with a used converter on it...


 
  #30  
Old 10-11-2018, 04:40 PM
Dan V
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I would not hesitate to buy the DieselSite converter.
 

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