FE ignition help
#1
10-07-2018, 09:05 PM
FE ignition help
About at end of my rope. Went for a shorty drive and engine was loosing power. Fuel filter , changed then wouldn’t start. It was popping and cracking under load before I shut it off.
Changed coil, ignition module, pickup in distbutor twice, load tested wires from distributor to module they were ok.
Still no spark from coil,applied power differently and coil has hot spark.
Engine is getting fuel. Battery is good.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance. We haven’t found a wave pattern on distributor to verify against. My son in law thought it looked odd but didn’t have any info. He was using a snap on diag machine.
Changed coil, ignition module, pickup in distbutor twice, load tested wires from distributor to module they were ok.
Still no spark from coil,applied power differently and coil has hot spark.
Engine is getting fuel. Battery is good.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance. We haven’t found a wave pattern on distributor to verify against. My son in law thought it looked odd but didn’t have any info. He was using a snap on diag machine.
#2
10-07-2018, 09:22 PM
Cargo Master
#3
10-07-2018, 09:45 PM
#4
10-08-2018, 10:59 AM
Sounds like timing might have changed. Check the vacuum advance looking for cracks in hose or disconnect then see if the distributor might have moved by checking whether it can be rotated in either direction by hand. I take it that you didn't replace the cap b/c it was OK. Plug wire should also get some scrutiny.
#5
10-08-2018, 01:02 PM
#6
10-08-2018, 09:17 PM
Well I have changed everything dust. ignition module,ignition module on fender well, ignition switch ,3 coils, new cap and rotor with coil wire.
the dust module is putting out a signal with square wave.
Jumped the 2 wire connection going to control module for connection test, no change.
Battery is good. Load tested wires seem ok.
Only thing I haven’t changed is starter solenoid .
Cranks over good but no spark.
About to add gas and a match.
Accepting any help. I’m not a diag person, good parts changer tho.
the dust module is putting out a signal with square wave.
Jumped the 2 wire connection going to control module for connection test, no change.
Battery is good. Load tested wires seem ok.
Only thing I haven’t changed is starter solenoid .
Cranks over good but no spark.
About to add gas and a match.
Accepting any help. I’m not a diag person, good parts changer tho.
#7
10-09-2018, 08:41 AM
Is that fire (spark) at the plugs? If so and if fuel is not the problem then firing order and timing are the prime suspects. If spark at the plugs is weak or non-existant then new spark plug wires are indicated.
Trending Topics
#8
10-09-2018, 09:31 AM
#9
10-09-2018, 09:57 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#10
10-09-2018, 02:15 PM
#11
10-11-2018, 09:12 PM
#12
10-12-2018, 01:38 AM
Lead Driver
What's BEI?
Whatever it is, I'm not sure there is anything that can guarantee an older vehicle never has this happen again.
And don't bother to replace the starter relay/solenoid yet. Test it first by simply disconnecting the small Brown wire from the little "I" (for ignition) terminal and try again. If still not starting, then it's not the starter relay.
Since the engine is cranking with the starter, the starter relay is working in that regard. The fact that the Brown wire is directly connected to the ignition coil's Red w/green wire is why you test by disconnecting it to make sure it's not somehow shorting out. Pretty rare, but not impossible.
You can easily test the magnetic trigger inside the distributor (assuming you have a factory Dura Spark?) by using an ohm-meter on the Orange and Purple wires. You want to see between 400 and 800 ohms between them. If more or less, replace the unit (or the whole distributor).
Make sure you're getting power to the ICM. Old ones do fail, but it's cheaper to check for power first, since the wires and connections can be causing trouble after all these years.
What year truck is this by the way? What engine? Sorry, maybe you've said and I missed it, or it's in your user information. I just didn't look yet.
Good luck.
Paul
Whatever it is, I'm not sure there is anything that can guarantee an older vehicle never has this happen again.
And don't bother to replace the starter relay/solenoid yet. Test it first by simply disconnecting the small Brown wire from the little "I" (for ignition) terminal and try again. If still not starting, then it's not the starter relay.
Since the engine is cranking with the starter, the starter relay is working in that regard. The fact that the Brown wire is directly connected to the ignition coil's Red w/green wire is why you test by disconnecting it to make sure it's not somehow shorting out. Pretty rare, but not impossible.
You can easily test the magnetic trigger inside the distributor (assuming you have a factory Dura Spark?) by using an ohm-meter on the Orange and Purple wires. You want to see between 400 and 800 ohms between them. If more or less, replace the unit (or the whole distributor).
Make sure you're getting power to the ICM. Old ones do fail, but it's cheaper to check for power first, since the wires and connections can be causing trouble after all these years.
What year truck is this by the way? What engine? Sorry, maybe you've said and I missed it, or it's in your user information. I just didn't look yet.
Good luck.
Paul
#13
10-12-2018, 05:30 PM
Truck is 77 on a 74 chassis. Some one built a 1/2 assed highboy for a pulling truck.
i I meant to say HEI for ignition. Engine is a FE ,I assume 390 with a c6. Fairly good running motor when running. This is the first issue.
It had set in weeds for 10 years, so I’ve replaced about everything.
i I meant to say HEI for ignition. Engine is a FE ,I assume 390 with a c6. Fairly good running motor when running. This is the first issue.
It had set in weeds for 10 years, so I’ve replaced about everything.
#14
10-12-2018, 05:35 PM
What's BEI?
Whatever it is, I'm not sure there is anything that can guarantee an older vehicle never has this happen again.
And don't bother to replace the starter relay/solenoid yet. Test it first by simply disconnecting the small Brown wire from the little "I" (for ignition) terminal and try again. If still not starting, then it's not the starter relay.
Since the engine is cranking with the starter, the starter relay is working in that regard. The fact that the Brown wire is directly connected to the ignition coil's Red w/green wire is why you test by disconnecting it to make sure it's not somehow shorting out. Pretty rare, but not impossible.
You can easily test the magnetic trigger inside the distributor (assuming you have a factory Dura Spark?) by using an ohm-meter on the Orange and Purple wires. You want to see between 400 and 800 ohms between them. If more or less, replace the unit (or the whole distributor).
Make sure you're getting power to the ICM. Old ones do fail, but it's cheaper to check for power first, since the wires and connections can be causing trouble after all these years.
What year truck is this by the way? What engine? Sorry, maybe you've said and I missed it, or it's in your user information. I just didn't look yet.
Good luck.
Paul
Whatever it is, I'm not sure there is anything that can guarantee an older vehicle never has this happen again.
And don't bother to replace the starter relay/solenoid yet. Test it first by simply disconnecting the small Brown wire from the little "I" (for ignition) terminal and try again. If still not starting, then it's not the starter relay.
Since the engine is cranking with the starter, the starter relay is working in that regard. The fact that the Brown wire is directly connected to the ignition coil's Red w/green wire is why you test by disconnecting it to make sure it's not somehow shorting out. Pretty rare, but not impossible.
You can easily test the magnetic trigger inside the distributor (assuming you have a factory Dura Spark?) by using an ohm-meter on the Orange and Purple wires. You want to see between 400 and 800 ohms between them. If more or less, replace the unit (or the whole distributor).
Make sure you're getting power to the ICM. Old ones do fail, but it's cheaper to check for power first, since the wires and connections can be causing trouble after all these years.
What year truck is this by the way? What engine? Sorry, maybe you've said and I missed it, or it's in your user information. I just didn't look yet.
Good luck.
Paul
HEI was ignition I meant, speed check.
