I am not very good at troubleshooting electrical issues so any help on where and how to look will be greatly appreciated. I have been intermittently trying to solve an intermittent no start issue since April of this year. It is a 92 F250 SC Long bed 4X4 with a 460 and a ZF-5.

Symptoms are as follows. When I turn the key to run in preparation to start the truck the dash lights go through their normal pre start routine and I can hear the fuel pump for a few seconds. Usually when I turn the key to start, it starts without issue. However, sometimes I get nothing. No crank, no clicking from the solenoid and everything inside the cab cuts out. Today, it also seemed to have lost battery contact as the radio clock reset to 12:00, switched to AM instead of FM and lost all presets just like when I disconnected the battery.

What I have done so far. Of course shortly after I got the truck home I gave it a tune up and replaced plugs, rotor, distributor cap, plug wires, air cleaner. The oil was just changed before I bought the truck so I haven't changed it yet as I have only put four thousand kilometres on it since I bought it. I know it's probably not related but I wanted everyone to know what's been done for clarity.

Replaced the starter solenoid as the old one was looking very rough. Old, cracked and dirty.
Checked the grounds that I know of and, surprisingly, they are all in good shape. Good cables and clean contacts
Replaced the pedal box bushings.
Jumpered the clutch lock out switch.
Upgraded to a 3G alternator with the slow start (delayed start) regulator.
I changed the battery cable ends with new ones.
Today I tested the resting voltage of the battery. It has 12.8 volts after sitting for an hour. Alternator voltage at idle 14.2, at the alternator and at the battery. Voltage at the power distribution box on ALL of the fuses 14.2 with the engine running. Voltage on all the fuses in the in cab fuse box 13.8 with the engine running. I think that's normal to have some voltage drop there but I am not sure.

Each thing I have listed was in response to the intermittent no start issue. Every time the issue went away for a little while. It came back today after almost two months of flawless starting and running. How do I troubleshoot this? What do I look at and in what order? Keep in mind I am not very good with electrical issues so detailed explanations will be needed (sorry)

I am going to check for codes tomorrow and report on any I may find.

 

After re-reading OP, total battery disconnect events....

 

I don't trust those clamp on replacement battery ends. Get new cables. In the long run they will outlast the quick fix ends. That is the main cause for total loss of power.

 

When you replaced the NEG (-) battery cable end how many wires is in the clamp of the battery cable end?
There should be two.
Also if it has two wires where does the other end of the wires go?
Does large one just go to the frame and no where else?
Attachment 277906

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Just wanted to chime in. I had the same problem on an F150. Turn the key and BAM nothing. Get out, wiggle the terminals and she'll start right up. I replaced the battery wire ends with quality solder-on ends. Additionally, I cleaned the battery terminals and the battery wires very well. No issues since then!

 

Poor connections and corrosion at the battery terminal connections can cause your problem. Disassemble, clean, and apply appropriate anti corrosive. You may need to use an appropriate solvent to really clean things up. It won't hurt to disassemble and clean any other connections you have recently worked on.

I am not a fan of the typical cheap terminal replacements or the universal replacement cables. Learn to repair/build your own cables or find a shop that does that sort of work. Starter and alternator rebuild shops are the places to go but they are a dying breed.

 

Thank you to everyone who replied.

As I was chasing the wires down this morning to see where each one went I discovered the Negative wire ground connection to the engine had broken off. It was simply sitting there pressing against the bolt. I am in the process or replacing it. I think this should resolve my issue. It must have been cracked initially and I missed it when I replaced the battery post ends on the cables as it is in a very hard place to see and get to.

Should my negative battery cable be grounded as close to the starter as possible ie; one of the starter mounting bolts, or is anywhere on the engine OK? My ground straps from engine to body, and body to frame are in good shape.

To answer you Subford, the Negative battery cables are as you posted in your picture. One heavy cable going to the engine block from the battery post and another, smaller wire going from the battery post to the body ground. Pretty much in exactly the same spot as in your picture.

 

On the 460 the NEG ground to the engine is a very hard place to get to.
Just ground it to an engine block bolt with the shortest cable possible leaving enough for engine rocking.

 

I think my problem is solved. I replaced the entire negative battery cable with a new one. I also hooked it up to one of the starter mounting bolts. I googled "the best place to put the negative battery cable" and the most common answer was to put it either on a starter mounting bolt or as close to the starter as possible, so that's what I did. The new cable is six feet long and it fits almost perfectly. Maybe six or seven inches extra.

When I started the truck the engine turned over much faster than before, it started and ran VERY smoothly and the needle for the voltmeter gauge was between the "R" and "M" on normal instead of hovering near the "N". Almost exactly in the middle of the gauge. Time will tell, but I think my electrical issue is fixed.

 

My electrical issue is only partly fixed. While running around doing errands the truck started and ran perfectly. However, upon trying to start it at the last stop, once again I experienced the same no start issue. I wiggled the positive wires at the battery post (they are held on to the post clamp by a squeeze clamp) and, voila, my truck started. So,,,,,,I have only partially resolved my issue. For what it's worth the wires didn't move at all. However the truck started and ran fine after.

The next step is for me to replace the battery post clamps with superior ones. If anybody has pictures of good quality ones I would appreciate seeing them on here.

 

Sounds like the battery posts need cleaning and not so much the clamps if those clamps are new.

 

Subford, I took your advice and took my newish battery clamps apart and cleaned them and the battery posts. The truck starts up quickly and easily now. Hopefully this will finally resolve my issue.

 

See post #3.....

 

Not to hijack the thread, but I am having a similar issue. I have a newish battery but know the cables are corroded. The terminals themselves are perfect.

My trouble is finding the correct parts. Local store says they don't have it. On RockAuto for the positive I found part # A474TA for the positive. There are many negatives listed however. Part # A364UT looks the closest.

Are these correct? This is for a 1996 f250 XLT Ext cab 4X4 with 460 and automatic.

Thanks!

 

So I ordered the ones listed above. The battery connectors look very small and cheap. Not sure they will even fit on the battery terminals on my truck.