Need input on upgraded 351w, 1990 F250 EFI
#16
Sounds like there is some valve clatter or ticking in/around the valve covers. I’ve spent a lot of time researching these parts and a lot of money on these upgrades and my mechanic has stopped being helpful, kinda just shrugging his shoulders. He’s saying the cam could be making it idle rough but this cam is supposed to work perfectly with my configuration, and these springs were recommended for this cam.
Do I need longer pushrods? Using stock.
Do I need longer pushrods? Using stock.
#18
#19
#21
I’m wondering if the mechanic has done something incorrectly while putting everything back together. They keep mentioning at the shop it could be my upgraded parts but I’ve researched these parts and there shouldn’t be any issue with how everything functions together. For the valve clatter and rough idle are there any ways the cam could’ve been installed wrong or the valves are screwed up or something else? And then all the vacuum and egr etc I’m making him troubleshoot for the brutal performance but haven’t heard back 😐
#22
#23
I used the Trick flow springs. The retainers are different for intake & exhaust as well as being nearly indistinguishable from each other & VERY easy to mistake one from another.
The other thing is installed height. They provide shims in the kit to make sure it is correct.
They supply a go/no go gauge to check
I also used a set of Moroso checking springs to set the height. ( less than $10)
You need to use a stiffer spring on anything that has greater lift than stock because the stock ones are so weak & will float the valves on a hotter cam at high RPM.
The other thing is installed height. They provide shims in the kit to make sure it is correct.
They supply a go/no go gauge to check
I also used a set of Moroso checking springs to set the height. ( less than $10)
You need to use a stiffer spring on anything that has greater lift than stock because the stock ones are so weak & will float the valves on a hotter cam at high RPM.
#24
Ok this is turning into a bit of a nightmare. The mechanic has had my truck for a week trying to “identify the issue”. They started inferring that the cam I bought is a custom race cam that is causing issues. I told them to do some research and they’ll find that cam should be installed and run like any other cam for this truck and should perform completely smoothly. I made them call Crane. Now they’re saying they need to remove the engine and the cam and readjust it with a cam/adjustment tool and they’re trying to charge me for the labor for removing the motor and adjusting the cam after I just paid them a couple thousand dollars in labor to install everything the first time!
#25
Unless some sort of multi-keyway cam gear was used {don't see in above list}, no adjustment is needed. Or possible.
I'd like to see a timing light on the balancer myself before anybody tore into it.
If they timed it with the SPOUT in it could rattle bad.
There could be an oil plug leaking or missing.
Push rods could be too short.
Whole lot more to look at before pulling the cam.
People who throw around the phrase "race cam" are looking for a way out cause they're over their head.
I'd like to see a timing light on the balancer myself before anybody tore into it.
If they timed it with the SPOUT in it could rattle bad.
There could be an oil plug leaking or missing.
Push rods could be too short.
Whole lot more to look at before pulling the cam.
People who throw around the phrase "race cam" are looking for a way out cause they're over their head.
#27
Ok, after I got very grumpy they suddenly mostly fixed my truck. It idles and runs great and has a lot of power. The only issue is there is a noticeable lifter (I think it’s lifter) tapping at idle. I can hear it get faster in park if I step on the gas but at road speeds it seems to go away. Mechanic again says it’s normal but it’s not. Anyone have experience with this?