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Need input on upgraded 351w, 1990 F250 EFI

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  #16  
Old 10-03-2018, 03:06 PM
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Sounds like there is some valve clatter or ticking in/around the valve covers. I’ve spent a lot of time researching these parts and a lot of money on these upgrades and my mechanic has stopped being helpful, kinda just shrugging his shoulders. He’s saying the cam could be making it idle rough but this cam is supposed to work perfectly with my configuration, and these springs were recommended for this cam.

Do I need longer pushrods? Using stock.
 
  #17  
Old 10-08-2018, 02:48 PM
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EGR is working as it should. Mechanic is saying perhaps I need an upgraded oil pump for this cam, lifters etc? Doesn’t explain the lack of power.
 
  #18  
Old 10-08-2018, 04:57 PM
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have you put a real oil pressure gauge on it to see what it is. really don't think you need a new pump unless the engine has a lot of miles.

how rough is it idling.

did you have to adjust the valve rockers or are they non adjustable.

did you set the timing with the spout out.
 
  #19  
Old 10-08-2018, 05:05 PM
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The truck always idled perfectly smooth, now there’s a vibration/rocking at idle, and every minute or so it feels like the computer makes changes to how it’s idling and it will increase or drop rpm. The valve/lifter noise is unsettling as well, but can’t be the oil pump.
 
  #20  
Old 10-08-2018, 05:07 PM
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This cam should idle as smooth as stock.. mine did. You must have something hooked up wrong, how did you determine that EGR is working correctly? Is the air injection system in bypass mode at hot idle?
 
  #21  
Old 10-10-2018, 11:11 PM
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I’m wondering if the mechanic has done something incorrectly while putting everything back together. They keep mentioning at the shop it could be my upgraded parts but I’ve researched these parts and there shouldn’t be any issue with how everything functions together. For the valve clatter and rough idle are there any ways the cam could’ve been installed wrong or the valves are screwed up or something else? And then all the vacuum and egr etc I’m making him troubleshoot for the brutal performance but haven’t heard back 😐
 
  #22  
Old 10-11-2018, 11:54 PM
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Can I get a second opinion/confirmation that these Trick Flow valve springs should work correctly in my OE heads with this 444232 Cam? That’s the only mod I’m not 100% sure about. I’m hoping they’re not too stiff. They are significantly stiffer than the stock springs.
 
  #23  
Old 10-12-2018, 07:34 AM
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I used the Trick flow springs. The retainers are different for intake & exhaust as well as being nearly indistinguishable from each other & VERY easy to mistake one from another.

The other thing is installed height. They provide shims in the kit to make sure it is correct.

They supply a go/no go gauge to check

I also used a set of Moroso checking springs to set the height. ( less than $10)

You need to use a stiffer spring on anything that has greater lift than stock because the stock ones are so weak & will float the valves on a hotter cam at high RPM.
 
  #24  
Old 10-15-2018, 03:11 PM
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Ok this is turning into a bit of a nightmare. The mechanic has had my truck for a week trying to “identify the issue”. They started inferring that the cam I bought is a custom race cam that is causing issues. I told them to do some research and they’ll find that cam should be installed and run like any other cam for this truck and should perform completely smoothly. I made them call Crane. Now they’re saying they need to remove the engine and the cam and readjust it with a cam/adjustment tool and they’re trying to charge me for the labor for removing the motor and adjusting the cam after I just paid them a couple thousand dollars in labor to install everything the first time!
 
  #25  
Old 10-15-2018, 06:09 PM
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Unless some sort of multi-keyway cam gear was used {don't see in above list}, no adjustment is needed. Or possible.

I'd like to see a timing light on the balancer myself before anybody tore into it.

If they timed it with the SPOUT in it could rattle bad.

There could be an oil plug leaking or missing.

Push rods could be too short.

Whole lot more to look at before pulling the cam.

People who throw around the phrase "race cam" are looking for a way out cause they're over their head.
 
  #26  
Old 10-15-2018, 09:19 PM
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Thank you Scndsin I appreciate the input. I agree. This is frustrating, I will return with updates/cries for help.
 
  #27  
Old 10-16-2018, 03:05 PM
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Ok, after I got very grumpy they suddenly mostly fixed my truck. It idles and runs great and has a lot of power. The only issue is there is a noticeable lifter (I think it’s lifter) tapping at idle. I can hear it get faster in park if I step on the gas but at road speeds it seems to go away. Mechanic again says it’s normal but it’s not. Anyone have experience with this?
 
  #28  
Old 10-16-2018, 06:28 PM
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If they re-used your roller lifters, it's possible.

Don't see them in above parts list.
 
  #29  
Old 10-16-2018, 06:42 PM
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The lifters are new and came with the Crane Cam. Maybe the pushrods are too short?
 
  #30  
Old 10-16-2018, 09:37 PM
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Sorry, not roller, it's a 90.

Yes, push rods could be too short, but not usually the sign of just one tick.

Could be a lump of junk in an oil gallery. You might just give it time if all else is better.
 


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