So yesterday afternoon, I started my truck with remote start, fired right up. Drive 2 minutes to the store, get back in the truck and NO start! I wasn't able to pull codes with either Forscan or Torque Pro. I unplugged the tuner, made no difference. After messing with it for about 30 minutes, it started, no tuner plugged into obd port.
So I drive straight home, leave it running, and still no codes to pull. I shut it off, and it won't restart! This morning, it started up, no codes, but again would not re start! Any suggestions? I left the tuner unplugged overnight, and I don't feel this is related. I only get these symbols on the screen....

 

What's your computer reported battery voltage KOEO and KOER?

 

 

The engine light is always on when the key is in "run" with the engine off.

 

I'm not sure how to find that....my batteries aren't low though, if that means anything?

no cranking at all.

 

In the past, on my 7.3 there was a neutral safety switch that was in the steering collum that wore out, or had gotten out of adjustment. I really have no clue if that could be similar on these newer trucks or not? I did try starting it in neutral, and it made no difference...

 

A few months ago I had a similar 2014 6.7L no start (no crank/ no glow plug) condition; I don't know if there were any codes.
After an indy mechanic dicked around with it several times ($400, w/ only intermittent success) I gave up and had it towed to the dealer.

They replaced a flaky power relay (I think they said it went to the ECM (or PCM?). I had them keep the truck another week (so they could frequently check for starting/ it did). The part was $43; however the many hours looking + towing came to $500 - $600.

Just to be safe, several days later the truck belonged to another out of town dealer.

 

You traded your truck in over $500 bucks? Unless You were already considering an upgrade that seems pretty wild.
Well I let the truck sit a few hours, and still no start, or crank! Frustrating

 

In full disclosure:
When the problem first arose (Jan.) I knew my batteries were 4 years old. Despite them testing as OK I replaced them: $300? No help.
Then I tried the $400 indy mechanic route; after three visits (all at my expense) he quit taking my calls. Now it's June and we're wanting to go camping.
Then we went to the dealer for the repair.

During this 5-6 months we decided on up-grading the 5th. One thing led to another and the deal was done.
The new 5th added 10 feet and 6000 pounds over/above the old 5th, now well over the (former) F250s capabilities (and over many F350's as well).

 

 

Any other ideas? It still won't start, I'm probably going to get it to the mechanic today...

 

Travis, have you looked at these two items? Especially the large connector that is directly above the parking brake. It is known to work loose with repeated parking brake use, and cause all sorts of gremlins.

 

I'm not familiar with the location of that plug. Is it on the kick panel on the side, or above it up near the obd port? Thanks!

 

It mounted up under the dash at the top of the parking brake lever. Comments from others indicate that repeated use of parking brake makes the connector move, and eventually come loose enough causing intermittent connection. you can try searching this forum, it's been discussed quite a bit on and off over the years on the 2011-and up models. There were some photos too.

 

Well I located that plug. It didn't feel loose at all, but I did unhook it, and back up again, that didn't fix the issue. I removed the relay #38 for the PCM under the hood, and I'm going to go pick up a new one. If that doesn't work, it's off to the shop for the truck! Keeping my fingers crossed...