How did you retrieve these codes, Scanner or check engine light.? Sandy

 

check engine light.

 

Photos

 

Sorry for so many questions but trying to isolate your main issue. You listed both columns as KOEO. There are KOEO key on engine off and KOER key on engine running. Can you clarify which was which and did you have the engine to operating temp when you did your testing? KOEO should be tested first with engine at operating temp.

 

In the last picture are those cut wires above the coffee can looking vacuum can with the blue tie wrap.?

 

You'll get a map code when you have a vacuum leak. The most common problem is the plastic vacuum lines break under the intake manifold on the right side of the engine.
The knocking sound when you accelerate might be from a flat camshaft. Thank the government for taking out the Zink in the automotive oils. Flat tappet engines wear out quickly when there is no Zink in the oil

 

Sorry typo key on engine off was the first set key on engine running was the second set but I'm going to try and do it again just to be safe and I'll give you the codes I get the second time

 

​​​​​​No the blue is zip ties because the bracket that hold the canister broke

 

Only 1 problem with that theory... the OP's motor has a roller cam.

 

Well... nothing there is a MAP sensor code but I don't see a listing for 152. The temp sensor codes come up if the test is done before the engine is warmed up so they can be ignored, the only thing relevant are codes 622 and 172. 622 is a trans shift solenoid failure, that could cause some real issues, and 172 says the motor is running lean, that confirms my suspicion that the knocking you hear is detonation so you need to check fuel pressure and for vacuum and exhaust leaks.

 

How do I check the fuel pressure

I also dropped the tank and took the fuel pump out to check it at first and the filter on the pump itself was disintegrated and it was pretty nasty inside the tank I washed it out put a new filter on the pump put it all back together and put the tank back up I also changed the fuel line filter

 

I see at least one of those nasty vacuum caps too. There on the main vacuum tree sticking out the top of the upper intake next to the brake booster hose. They're notorious for not lasting very long if they've been replaced.
The factory ones lasted years, but replacements can deteriorate, crack and leak within months of installation.

With that lean code, have you checked for vacuum leaks the old fashioned way? Lightly spraying some fluid around the different areas?
I use a light dose of carb cleaner myself, but not everyone is comfortable with flammables doing that. Me, I've never had a carb cleaner flare up, so I still do it. But a spray bottle with water, or even some WD 40 which is pretty benign will do the job.
If you spray it around all the hoses, fittings, gaskets and components connected to vacuum and you detect a change in idle quality, you may very well have found a leak. Maybe more than one.

But at least check that the cap in the picture is soft and pliable and not cracked.

Paul