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When I tried to fix the original belt tensioner on my 94 Bronco, I found it's difficult because the thread got completely messed up and it's hard to make a straight threaded hole. So I decided to buy a better tensioner when I found this ACDELCO 38115 on Rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ensioner,11659
This part there is listed under my car and it says will fit 87-96 Bronco. But when it comes, I found it's much bigger than the original part (bracket is bigger, wheel is bigger). So I just wonder if this part can really fit on a Bronco? Anybody ever tried? Need any modification?
This is a much better part: it uses flat surface to align instead of the original threaded hole, so should be much more stable. That's why I hate to return it without giving it a try. Thanks!
according to the different listings the one you got is a 1/2" inch bigger in diameter on the pulley. 90mm vs 76mm. dont know if it will lock in with the correct orientation. you might need a longer belt too. your going to have to try it to see.
I sent ACDelco an email, asking them about it. Here is their response: "Part number 38115 is listed as the belt tensioner pulleys for a 1994 Ford Bronco with a 5.8".
So now we have maker saying it will fit, seller saying it will fit, one customer on Amazon saying it will fit. I guess I will have to give it a try.
Here is a comparison of the two parts:
They don't look like will replace each other. So I think the new one may be installed with an angle which will accommodate the wheel diameter increase to keep the original belt length. But it didn't come with a bolt and says use the original bolt. However, the original bolt can't even go through the new hole! Since the original bolt broke anyway, I will use a go through bolt/nut and let you know the result.
Ford uses different belt routing schemes on the same engine even in the same model year. The AC Declo 38115 looks like the original that was on my old 1992 F350 w/5.8L engine. If your truck has the open spring version tensioner, replace it with the same style.
I returned this tensioner and started repairing the old one. Before I fixed the idle problem of this car, it shakes like crazy and broke 3 bolts holding the tensioner. Each time the bolt broke, I have to find a way to extract the broken piece inside the bracket (weld an extension on it, for example). The thread (M10) can also be repaired with a M12 insert. But if that broke, there is no standard way to fix. Especially this is when it's hard to keep the tensioner shaft square/perpendicular to the bracket.
This is how I repaired it today: use a 1/4 NPT tap to tap the hole, as straight as possible. Thread in a 1/4 pipe nipple as straight as possible. Since it's a pipe thread, you can make some adjustment when you screw it to make sure it's straight. Cut it to length, install the tensioner on it. The OD of this pipe is an exact fit into the tensioner:
09-22-2018, 10:48 AM
