So I printed out the instructions and adjusted my blue ox shank to fit my new 250 since the rear is higher. However, I was having trouble with the spring bars and equalizing the F&R axels.

Not sure if it’s worth noting my SD has the highest front spring package with the snow plow prep package.

Blue Ox says to get the fenders the same height within 1/2”.

Here are my measurements:

Unhooked: F = 42” / R = 44.25”
Hooked with No Bars: F = 43 / R = 42.5 (0.5” variance)
Hooked with 7 links : F = 43 / R = 42.5 (0.5” variance)
Hooked with 8 links: F = 42.75 / R = 43.5 (0.75” variance)
Hooked with 9 links: F = 42.75 / R = 43.5 (0.75” variance)

My concern is Blue Ox recommends STARTING at link 9 and working up to link 12 if need be until level. I’m having the opposite problem - the more links I go the worse it gets. Also the worse off level the trailer gets. The trailer looks the most level with no links or 7 links. After that the trailer starts point more upward.

any ideas??

I’m afraid with the bars hanging so low at 7 links the sway control will be ineffective.

 

Don`t know much about the Blue Ox and just how the say control works; but I would lower the hitch ball one notch and try that. Looking nose high can be deceiving, use a long level and double check. Mine looked nose high but was actually a 1/4 inch low. I had to add a washer to get it back exactly to unloaded height and it tows great. Good luck, once dailed in it with be worth the effort.

 

Do you know the trailer's tongue weight?

 

 

When no bars are connected is the trailer level? If so, that may be part of your problem. With no bars connected I think the tongue should be down a bit. When connected, the spring bars should bring the tongue up to level.

My old hitch is a Blue Ox. It worked fine on my F-350 with an 11k trailer. I never really did the whole measure the front/back axles of the truck. I made a guess and did a test drive. Then I switched to the Andersen WDH because I wanted a 3" shank not a 2". Also, the Blue Ox had a lower weight rating that my trailer's GVWR. When I configured the Andersen I figured it out based on how the truck drove. Measurements are a good start but the strong front springs can (so I've been told) throw off the measurements method. You may need to put your truck/trailer on a scale to know for sure what's going on.

What it came down to for me was, "Did the truck drive well or not." Not enough force on the WDH and the front would wander anytime someone passed me. Just the right amount of force and that stopped.

 

I know you've got about 950lb tongue weight though you didn't mention the percent of trailer weight that's on the tongue. I tend to think getting enough weight on the truck is important. Then figure out what link makes it work. Using fender measurements is a rough guide line and will vary from truck to truck depending on the front vs rear springs, tires, tire pressure, etc.

Like tuning a carburetor for power...tune to what the engine wants...not to achieve a theoretical air fuel ratio. With a trailer hitch, tune to what the rig wants (based on drive-ability)...not to a fender height. Use the hitch instructions as guide lines. If you find yourself radically different from the guide lines, then stop and ask yourself why.

 

Yeah, I think you're over thinking it with the measurements. Tongue weight as a percentage of total trailer weight is important.

My 250 (diesel, with snow plow front springs) hardly squats with my 9k lbs trailer at nearly the same tongue weight. I too support the "how it drives" method. I would start with the soft setting and work my way up. Also, experiment with the ball height. It may be too high.

 

I set my Reese dual cam up last weekend and sis the fender height thing as well. Mine shows a tad (1/4 ") below 100% return on the front and 1/2" squat in the back with two links hanging. The back is fine but the front is a little low. BUT the rig looks right. I think that is important. If all looks level then it probably is right. I also think the test drive is the main deciding factor. I haven't had a chance to take it out for a test drive because the racetrack had some kind of freak show going on and traffic was at a stand still. Maybe this weekend. I agree, instructions are a starting point. Seat of the pants is where the true test is.

 

Use as many links as it takes to get the front fender back as Close to 42 inches as possible. Don't worry about what the back is doing, it is what it is.

heavy front springs make it hard to tell when it is right , but if you can get it within 0.5 to 0.25" of the unloaded height in the front you will be pretty darn close. After you get the front fender height set, then check your trailer for level and adjust the hitch height as needed to get the trailer level.

so with that in mind every link you add makes it closer to being right. The goal is to get the weight back to the front axle. Making the measurements the same front and back after loading only works if they start off about the same when unloaded. You have a 2 inch rake to start with, so with those stiff front and rear springs, You are going to end up with nearly the same rake when you are done.

then hit the scales and verify. Or if it drives fine (and it will) set it and forget it.

That's how I would do it .

 

How are you counting your links? I have a Blue Ox and I think you may be going in the opposite direction. I count from the bar up. So the more links, the less Weight Distribution/Sway Control there is. So if you counted from the bar to 7, and measured. Then did 8, you would actually be making it worse, which your measurements kind of support. I know when I did mine I tried between 6 to 8 links. I did trips with each and found 7 to be the best for zero sway and no float. I am slightly trailer nose high because if I go lower then I am way nose low. I need to try washers on the ball.

 

I counted from the loose end. I towed it almost 200 miles this weekend with it on 9 links and it towed great - so I guess I'll leave it there. With my 150 I was able to get the F&R fenders within an 1/8" of each other but I guess the SD is a different animal.

 

towing well is the acid test, and it seems like you passed.

the rest is mostly academic. you could hit he scales to satisfy your own curiosity, but if it is towing well, there really is no "need"

and indeed the SD will act differently. without the bars hooked up your rear end only came down 1.75" if i were to guess, on the F150 it probably came down closer to 4" or more.

 

From what I've experienced and heard from others, the harder your springs, the harder it is to use the tape measure procedure to set up the WDH. Makes sense because it might take 4-6x as much weight transfer to make the same 1/2 or 1/4" deflection on a F350 compared to an F150 because of the spring rates.

It's one reason I prefer the CAT scale method of setting things up instead of the tape measure procedure. But Mike is correct, if it tows well, that's often about all the thought you need to put into it. I like to overthink things.