Yblock 292 272 interchange??
#1
09-21-2018, 12:37 AM
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Yblock 292 272 interchange??
question for the engine rebuilders
i have a 292 with three (wrecked/stuck/mushroomed lifter) bad holes out of a f600. I have a free 272 thata been donated, likely from a car or f100. Can I switch intakes, timing covers fuel pump, oil pan ect to make this truck drive? Not trying to show or race it, just need to move it around. Wasn’t planing on switching heads or anything internal.
Would like to hear your guys thoughts or experiences on this.
i have a 292 with three (wrecked/stuck/mushroomed lifter) bad holes out of a f600. I have a free 272 thata been donated, likely from a car or f100. Can I switch intakes, timing covers fuel pump, oil pan ect to make this truck drive? Not trying to show or race it, just need to move it around. Wasn’t planing on switching heads or anything internal.
Would like to hear your guys thoughts or experiences on this.
#2
09-21-2018, 12:52 AM
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question for the engine rebuilders
i have a 292 with three (wrecked/stuck/mushroomed lifter) bad holes out of a f600. I have a free 272 thata been donated, likely from a car or f100. Can I switch intakes, timing covers fuel pump, oil pan ect to make this truck drive? Not trying to show or race it, just need to move it around. Wasn’t planing on switching heads or anything internal.
Would like to hear your guys thoughts or experiences on this.
i have a 292 with three (wrecked/stuck/mushroomed lifter) bad holes out of a f600. I have a free 272 thata been donated, likely from a car or f100. Can I switch intakes, timing covers fuel pump, oil pan ect to make this truck drive? Not trying to show or race it, just need to move it around. Wasn’t planing on switching heads or anything internal.
Would like to hear your guys thoughts or experiences on this.
Welcome aboard!
Yes, everything interchanges with with a 272/292
What year is your F600? any pictures? We love pictures!
Mine came with a 239 that I replaced with what I thought was a 292. I had it rebuilt and I presume that the rebuilder rebuilt it using 292 pistons etc. Turns out it is a 272 block. If you're not sure, you can ID the block by having a look at the following site: TECHNICAL
There's not a LOT of difference between a 272 and a 292. I think only the bore is different.
Regards,
Rick
#3
09-21-2018, 11:18 AM
You may need to swap out the timing cover with your existing one but maybe not; cars and trucks have different covers. I'm assuming you'll use your existing bell housing because those are also different between cars and trucks. Since you may be pulling the timing cover check the gears and chain. If you change them remember the dots don't line up on Y-Blocks: Both gear timing marks should be at 3 o'clock with 12 timing chain pins between the marks.
#4
09-21-2018, 12:50 PM
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#5
09-22-2018, 01:44 AM
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Yes you guys are bang on. Thanks for the help. Yes, have the timing cover and balancer swapped over.... will be bringing the intake manifold, carb n bell housing too.
There is a slight difference in timing covers at the bottom but it still catches enough gasket and with a lil sealant it outta hold.
My donated 72 engine did have one bent lifter rod and one laying in the valley... on the same hole! Easy fix and set the valve lash, .019/ quarter turn and it’s coming togther.
will try and post a pic here when it’s back together.
Thanks again
LHE
There is a slight difference in timing covers at the bottom but it still catches enough gasket and with a lil sealant it outta hold.
My donated 72 engine did have one bent lifter rod and one laying in the valley... on the same hole! Easy fix and set the valve lash, .019/ quarter turn and it’s coming togther.
will try and post a pic here when it’s back together.
Thanks again
LHE
#6
09-24-2018, 11:36 AM
Logistics Pro
Sometimes stuck valves are the result of poor (or no) oil flow up-top.
While turning the oil pump (counter-clockwise) you will probably have to slowly turn the crankshaft to align the oil holes in the camshaft with the holes in the cam bearings or it will seem like there's NO oil flow at all up through the heads.
I think the OEM (original type) camshafts are all drilled, so that you only have oil flow to one side at a time as the cam turns.
Newer (style) camshafts are "slotted" in the oil supply area to allow oil flow to both sides regardless of cam position.
#7
09-24-2018, 09:03 PM
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That’s really good advice. Thank you.
I can see an old extension and socket being welded up for just this purpose.
The oil galleries in the heads were really gummed up with sludge and took a bit of cleaning to clear them down into the valley. Never occurred to me to clean out the rocker tubes so I’ll do that and make sure the oil is moving. What a difference between oils in the engines. The 92 obviously had newer detergent oil in it while the 72 did not.
While setting the valve lash, all the valves did move opening in closing. Hoping this is a good sign but will run the oil pump first anyways. Thanks again.
LHE
I can see an old extension and socket being welded up for just this purpose.
The oil galleries in the heads were really gummed up with sludge and took a bit of cleaning to clear them down into the valley. Never occurred to me to clean out the rocker tubes so I’ll do that and make sure the oil is moving. What a difference between oils in the engines. The 92 obviously had newer detergent oil in it while the 72 did not.
While setting the valve lash, all the valves did move opening in closing. Hoping this is a good sign but will run the oil pump first anyways. Thanks again.
LHE
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#8
09-25-2018, 11:47 PM
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That’s really good advice. Thank you.
I can see an old extension and socket being welded up for just this purpose.
The oil galleries in the heads were really gummed up with sludge and took a bit of cleaning to clear them down into the valley. Never occurred to me to clean out the rocker tubes so I’ll do that and make sure the oil is moving. What a difference between oils in the engines. The 92 obviously had newer detergent oil in it while the 72 did not.
While setting the valve lash, all the valves did move opening in closing. Hoping this is a good sign but will run the oil pump first anyways. Thanks again.
LHE
I can see an old extension and socket being welded up for just this purpose.
The oil galleries in the heads were really gummed up with sludge and took a bit of cleaning to clear them down into the valley. Never occurred to me to clean out the rocker tubes so I’ll do that and make sure the oil is moving. What a difference between oils in the engines. The 92 obviously had newer detergent oil in it while the 72 did not.
While setting the valve lash, all the valves did move opening in closing. Hoping this is a good sign but will run the oil pump first anyways. Thanks again.
LHE
Even if you do use a detergent oil, if you run it long enough the contaminants will eventually "use up" all the detergent and start dropping out and collecting in places you don't want it.
If you have heavy sludge, try using a good detergent oil and just run it ensuring that the oil makes it to a good high temp. I would caution against using any "solvent" such as diesel, MMO, ATF, Seafoam, Super owl Snot or any other snake oil claiming to "flush" engines while running.
Heavily sludged engines should be disassembled and cleaned. If you try to use solvents while running you risk a chunk of "stuff" breaking off in an internal oil passage that could make it to a main, cam or rod bearing and starve it of oil flow. If that happens, you could end up with a spun bearing or worse.
#9
09-25-2018, 11:51 PM
#10
09-26-2018, 05:43 AM
Lead Driver
#11
09-26-2018, 08:18 AM
What you'll almost certainly find removing rocker shafts for cleaning is heavy galling and scoring on the underside. If going to the trouble of removal it's probably a better idea to just replace them. Upper oiling was a problem for the Y-Block family. If there is good pressure and flow coming from the outlets at each head with the rocker assemblies removed it may be that using modern detergent oils and a reasonable oil change frequency will tend to minimize this. Oils have improved a lot since then.
#12
09-26-2018, 06:21 PM
Logistics Pro
It was all Y-blocks and it wasn't a "Problem" with y-blocks because of design, but more a problem with people using non-detergent oil and not changing it. Non detergent oil will make sludge from normal combustion contaminants and it will drop out and collect all over the place...
No Y-block will have the "problem" if modern oils (and filters) are used and changed on any sort of regular basis. If anyone has plugged oil passages that supply the rockers, as a minimum the heads have to come off to clear them, and I would pull the cam to ensure they were clear, the easiest way to check is to pull the rocker tubes, turn the oil pump (CCW) with a drill motor and slowly turn the crankshaft (if the cam is a drilled one) If you have no flow of oil, it's time to pull the heads and cam.
If the engine is sludged up pretty bad, it's time to tear it down.
No Y-block will have the "problem" if modern oils (and filters) are used and changed on any sort of regular basis. If anyone has plugged oil passages that supply the rockers, as a minimum the heads have to come off to clear them, and I would pull the cam to ensure they were clear, the easiest way to check is to pull the rocker tubes, turn the oil pump (CCW) with a drill motor and slowly turn the crankshaft (if the cam is a drilled one) If you have no flow of oil, it's time to pull the heads and cam.
If the engine is sludged up pretty bad, it's time to tear it down.
#13
09-26-2018, 08:05 PM
Unfortunately Y Blocks were well known at the time for upper oiling problems. They even sold aftermarket kits to work around it. Keep in mind the other engine family and competing marques were using the same crappy oil too, and didn't seem to be prone to this. I agree modern oils, unleaded gasoline, and better maintenance seems to have made it a thing of the past.
#14
09-26-2018, 08:21 PM
Unfortunately Y Blocks were well known at the time for upper oiling problems. They even sold aftermarket kits to work around it. Keep in mind the other engine family and competing marques were using the same crappy oil too, and didn't seem to be prone to this. I agree modern oils, unleaded gasoline, and better maintenance seems to have made it a thing of the past.
#15
09-27-2018, 01:03 AM
Sludgy crankcase oil. Haven't seen it myself, but many people have commented on this on tear down of older engines. Engines stay cleaner with unleaded fuel. Synthetic oils even had some teething problems in the 60s because, while it makes for a really good motor oil lubricant leaded fuel was common and synthetic oil doesn't absorb the lead byproducts of combustion in suspension the way regular mineral oils do or somesuch.