96K miles on my truck, first major issue since I've owned it(2013). Initially was rough when cold then smoothed out after it got warm. A few days later, misfire got worse, and didn't go away when warm. After getting outlandish quotes for coil pack and plug replacements, decided to tackle it myself.
As a licensed FAA A&P, and done a lot of maintenance on my vehicles over the years, I went into this with some confidence I could do the job. Got the Accel Paks and Ford plugs for combined $200. Started the job, thinking it would be hard , but not impossible. Did all my research here and other sites as well. First off, none of the coils came loose with the rubber boot. Boots were stuck and needed to be freed by coat hanger between plug and boot, before they could be extracted. Bottom line, 3 days in 104 degree heat index, and all packs/plugs are in, and truck runs great. Notes: All removed plugs gaps were in spec. None looked oil soaked. #4 looked fine, as well as the coil and boot. No indication of why the misfire, but truck was due for the change anyway. I will be sore for a week or so, but it was worth it. Saved a bunch, but won't want to do it again. If any advice , be careful of the connectors on the coils and injectors, making sure you don't damage them. Didn't have to remove the fuel rail, but some of the other hoses were a pain. I made sure I had injector orings on hand in case I had to do that. Moved the computer box over a bit, as well as the bracket on the Power steering reservoir. Made sure I put dielectric grease on inside of the tip of the boots, top edge of the boots, ceramic area of the plug, and on the section of the boot that seals the plug well . Used a torque wrench where I could, at 20#, and guesstimated the others by feel. Anti seize on the plugs and coil bolts. One of the toughest mechanical things I have attempted.

 

Did the same when I got my "new to me" '97 many years ago. Wasn't so bad, really. Now the 5.4L 3V... that's another story.

 

That's but ONE reason I'm glad I run the E-Series with the old 2v motors!

Sailor144 I too went the way of aftermarket COP's but soon after switched back to OEM Ford (saved from the swap) as the Granatelli's started failing one-by-one. The Accel's seem to be common for DIY replacements, could be cost alone driving that choice. What I've learned over time here as well as in-hand experience is stick with Ford or Motorcraft ignition parts for the Modular Motors. Spark plug boots are pretty important and in that case I use NAPA or SMP brand, about $5 each rather than $12+ for the Ford/MC brand. Very high quality too.

I too use nickel-based anti-seize on the plug threads, torque each to 23 ft/lbs with a high quality torque wrench using whatever combination of extensions or universal joints etc to get that part correct. A dab of dielectric grease in the COP connector and at each end of the boot has worked well for me. Also I change plugs at 50K miles, never let them go too much past that. Sure its a PITA but the relative "ease" that gives you its worth it. Maybe plan your maintenance for a better weather spell? I've never done this on an F-Series but only in E-Series---removing the front seats allows me to do 6 of them from inside, the front two (#1 & # 8) from under the hood.

When any one cylinder throws a misfire code visual inspection rarely shows much of anything. Of course in some instances an electrode might be burned away or broken away. A lot of times such a code is due a failed plug or COP, the boot has started leaking energy to ground or the wiring harness connector has lost contact.

And yes this is NOT an easy job the first time out. The knowledge and experience you've gained through all this will serve you very, very well next time out!

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes Accel choice was $ driven, with online disc. $160 for the set. Since I'm driving this 2500mi./yr at this point, hoping they will last. Sure glad I don' t have to deal with the 3v issues