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Fuel in Coolant

  #16  
Old 09-18-2018, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevota_72 View Post
I wouldn't skimp on flushing the system. The diesel is circulated throughout the cooling system now and can wreak havoc with some rubbers, i.e. heater hoses, radiator hoses. It is time consuming but I feel it is necessary.
after draining it tonight itís pretty bad, looks like a lava lamp with the pink shell ELC and green diesel haha
 
  #17  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
Whats really going to suck is doing this in my driveway and dealing with weather and just having things apart exposed to the elements. If it rains I mean yeah the hood will be shut but there’s still humidity and crap right?
Get a roll of shop towels for this. At the end of the day I put a wadded up shop towel in any opening that was exposed (IC, turbo, injector holes, etc.) until I worked on it again. I also put the VCs back on with 2 bolts finger-tight at the end of each work session too.

Just remember where you stuffed them! I almost forgot to pull the ones out of the spider before I started it. Sure the grate probably would have caught it but I don't really want to test that theory.

Not a perfect solution but a cost-effective compromise that worked for me.
 
  #18  
Old 09-19-2018, 10:58 AM
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Lol..lost a perfectly good ragvin the intake. Looked everywhere so figured i had already disposed ofvit. After torquing inj/rocker bolts, fired ur up and instant white smoke followed by no rpm increase. Took a second to realize sumting wong....found the rag
 
  #19  
Old 09-19-2018, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
Lol..lost a perfectly good ragvin the intake. Looked everywhere so figured i had already disposed ofvit. After torquing inj/rocker bolts, fired ur up and instant white smoke followed by no rpm increase. Took a second to realize sumting wong....found the rag
I forgot once but remembered before it was too too late, I feel better about my 'event' now.
 
  #20  
Old 09-20-2018, 12:34 AM
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What are the odds of me needing new oil rail drain plug O rings? Some folk just suck out more crap and some drain em first and suck out less crap.

**** how do I prevent coolant from going into the cylinders when I remove the old cups?? And how do I keep the bore dry to put the new cups in? Wonít it kind of weep continually? Will draining the coolant t from the block plugs help me here or am I just gonna have some to suck out after removing the cup?
 
  #21  
Old 09-20-2018, 10:43 AM
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Helped a buddy change his cups n o-rings about 5yrs ago. Even after a couple of flushes, we saw fuel in his coolant...but it was floating on top in the coolant bottle. Using some rolled up paper towels, we just dipped the ends in to the floating fuel and soak it up. Took about 30 minutes but never did see anymore fuel in there after that. Just had to get the last of it out.
 
  #22  
Old 09-20-2018, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
What are the odds of me needing new oil rail drain plug O rings? Some folk just suck out more crap and some drain em first and suck out less crap.
Bought them but didn't use them. While I would have preferred to suck out less fluids I opted to disturbed fewer o-rings/seals.

Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
...how do I prevent coolant from going into the cylinders when I remove the old cups??
Drain the coolant. I didn't plan on cups so the sticks were out a couple of weeks before I had to pull cups. The oil and fuel had pretty much drained out of the rails already so all I had to do was drain the coolant and start.

You are going to get a bit of contamination of your fluids (stuff in your oil) no matter what you do. I just minimized it as best I could, changed the oil before first start, then changed it about 500 miles later. Even with the oil change I had some nasty oil stick to the valve covers. I don't know if it was because the injectors were new or if there was some gunk hanging out in the system. It seemed to concentrate more towards the rear where everything drained to during disassembly. After I did the 500 mile oil change I haven't had that problem (the white stuff is not light reflections)...



Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
And how do I keep the bore dry to put the new cups in? Won’t it kind of weep continually? Will draining the coolant t from the block plugs help me here or am I just gonna have some to suck out after removing the cup?
You're going to get some weepage but it will eventually stop. It's like a garden hose - most of the water runs out then it drips for a bit but it eventually stops. I thought mine was weeping for too long (some seepage in the cups a week later) but realized that it was coolant so shifted gears and did cups too.
 
  #23  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:48 PM
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Well I drained the both sides of the block. Got out about 7 gallons out now or one and quarter 5 gal buckets. Anxious to start but looks like flood warning tomorrow in OKC. The RiffRaff tools look really nice. Well worth the deposit. Iím actually excited to get my hands dirty and do some cleaning along the way. The engine valley is pretty nasty.
 
  #24  
Old 09-21-2018, 05:20 PM
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I'll repeat my Mantra again.....If you're going to pull half your top end off, Get a O-ring kit from Diesel-O-Rings before you commence operations. Everything in that Valley has at least 4 O's in it, and "Replace them now" before you have to later...... Just sayin, again.
 
  #25  
Old 09-22-2018, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by coax9952 View Post
I'll repeat my Mantra again.....If you're going to pull half your top end off, Get a O-ring kit from Diesel-O-Rings before you commence operations. Everything in that Valley has at least 4 O's in it, and "Replace them now" before you have to later...... Just sayin, again.
thanks for the heads up
 
  #26  
Old 09-22-2018, 09:58 AM
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I like your direction of preservation rather then power adders.

in that light the riff raff plenum inserts are worth their weight in gold while you have the CAC plenum apart. Might as well do new boots as well.
RDP Plenum Reinforcing Inserts? - Ford 7.3L 99.5-03

if you don’t live in cold weather you may end up wanting the non-EBPV pedestal if yours is leaking.
If you do delete it get the resistor to put in the connector to fool the pcm into thinking it is installed so it does not set codes.
 
  #27  
Old 09-23-2018, 09:50 PM
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How the heck do I know if my injectors are good or not? Obviously I canít bench test them, but visually what Story are they telling me here. They have some carbon on em but the nozzles donít appear to be clogged or anything. One of them does not look like the rest. Itís like an entirely different material. Is Ford gonna give me a prize because I have the bronze injector?


 
  #28  
Old 09-23-2018, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo View Post
I like your direction of preservation rather then power adders.

in that light the riff raff plenum inserts are worth their weight in gold while you have the CAC plenum apart. Might as well do new boots as well.
RDP Plenum Reinforcing Inserts? - Ford 7.3L 99.5-03

if you donít live in cold weather you may end up wanting the non-EBPV pedestal if yours is leaking.
If you do delete it get the resistor to put in the connector to fool the pcm into thinking it is installed so it does not set codes.
what all do I need for the non ebpv pedestal? Itís just the pedestal and the outlet without the flapper right? Mine isnít leaking yet. Iím really contemplating some 180cc Stage 1s from FullForce with my next paycheck. I mean **** Iím already ***** deep
 
  #29  
Old 09-23-2018, 11:32 PM
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[QUOTE=brian42;18205171]Bought them but didn't use them. While I would have preferred to suck out less fluids I opted to disturbed fewer o-rings/seals.

I did the same thing. Saw those and didnít have the right Allen and would of had to rig something up and it was just asking to drop something down in there and I was like nope not touching those

removed 7 and 8 first as called for. Heard some drainage but not much. Should be able to suck it out pretty well. Iíve got the injectors, uppioes and turbo out and now itís back to work until next weekend where I will tackle the cups/sleeves!
 
  #30  
Old 09-24-2018, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
How the heck do I know if my injectors are good or not? Obviously I canít bench test them, but visually what Story are they telling me here. They have some carbon on em but the nozzles donít appear to be clogged or anything. One of them does not look like the rest. Itís like an entirely different material. Is Ford gonna give me a prize because I have the bronze injector?


Your "bronze" injector looks like you pulled the cup out with the injector. I would check that hole to see if there's a brass cup in there.

Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
what all do I need for the non ebpv pedestal? Itís just the pedestal and the outlet without the flapper right? Mine isnít leaking yet. Iím really contemplating some 180cc Stage 1s from FullForce with my next paycheck. I mean **** Iím already ***** deep
Yes. All you need is the non-EBPV pedestal and "high flow" outlet from Garrett (no flapper...which is the EBPV).

Be careful what you contemplate. With different injectors comes some time invested in dialing them in so be prepared to follow that through. I had the same thought: if everything's apart why put old stuff back in? It turned out to be more involved that what I had budgeted for. I am sure my experience is more of the exception than the rule. I'm just saying to be prepared.

Originally Posted by Dude-Ford View Post
removed 7 and 8 first as called for. Heard some drainage but not much. Should be able to suck it out pretty well. Iíve got the injectors, uppioes and turbo out and now itís back to work until next weekend where I will tackle the cups/sleeves!
I sucked all the cylinders to make sure but there was only fluids in the rear 4. With the engine slightly tilted back (when the truck is level) you will probably only have fluids in cylinders 5-8. Most of that will be in 7 and 8 if you let things drain for a while before you pull injectors 5 and 6.
 

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