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96' 460 5 spd transfer case shifter question

 
  #1  
Old 08-30-2018, 04:51 PM
cityjack
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96' 460 5 spd transfer case shifter question

Evening all,

In haste, I tried to free my stuck rear emergency brake cable by rocking the truck in gear back n forth. I had let it sit for a couple weeks after coming back from the lake with the e brake on. I guess it must have rusted some and it wouldn't free up. So I had the bright idea to put it in 4 wheel drive to free it that way. When I tried pulling the tranny case shifter back, the shifter handle **** came off in my hand, but worse yet, the shifter rod has come loose from underneath somehow. I cannot even move the truck now in regular gear. What the heck did I do? Its like I pulled the shifter out of the transfer case or something. I did forget to push the shifter down while I was trying to engage 4 wheel too. The shifter rod is now real loose and I can lift it up and move it around like its not connected anymore.

Please help if you can.

Sid

 
  #2  
Old 08-30-2018, 07:48 PM
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The transferase is in Neutral. Push the lever forward.

Better yet before you break it, take the whole shifter off and free it up....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-repair.html
 
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Old 08-31-2018, 07:54 AM
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Too late

Good morning Brad,

You have helped me in the past with my truck. Thanks for the fix-it link. Unfortunately, its too late. I broke it before I even posted. take a look at the pic please sir. You can see where the aluminum casting broke on the piece that connects to the shaft. I guess by me not pressing totally down before trying to shift, I broke it. What is the piece called that I broke? Not sure where to find that piece. Also, the pin at the bottom, does that just fit into the steel rusted groove? Can I put something on the broken shaft to put the transfer case back so I can at least move the truck?

Thanks a ton Brad.

Sid
 
  #4  
Old 08-31-2018, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cityjack View Post
Good morning Brad,

You have helped me in the past with my truck. Thanks for the fix-it link. Unfortunately, its too late. I broke it before I even posted. take a look at the pic please sir. You can see where the aluminum casting broke on the piece that connects to the shaft. I guess by me not pressing totally down before trying to shift, I broke it. What is the piece called that I broke? Not sure where to find that piece. Also, the pin at the bottom, does that just fit into the steel rusted groove? Can I put something on the broken shaft to put the transfer case back so I can at least move the truck?

Thanks a ton Brad.

Sid

I cant see where yours is broken but dorman makes replacement
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...CABEgLjR_D_BwE
 
  #5  
Old 09-01-2018, 07:19 AM
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Circled areas, red and yellow


Its broke at the top of the casting. You can see inside the red circle where the casting snapped. Thank you for the link. Can I spin whats left of the shaft, yellow circle, to get the thing out of neutral so I can at least move the truck to work on it?

Thanks again Brad. Have a good safe holiday weekend.

Sid
 

Last edited by cityjack; 09-01-2018 at 07:20 AM. Reason: picture attach
  #6  
Old 09-01-2018, 07:43 AM
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I see it now

Actually you dont have to undo anything to be able to drive the truck. On the bottom of the cast aluminum linkage you will see a flat metal rod attached. Push that flat metal rod towards the rear of the truck. The 1st detent should be 4wd hi, the second 2wd
 
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:30 PM
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Thanks Brad. I'll take a look at it in the morning.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:44 AM
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I just worked on my transfer case shifter a couple weeks ago. It did not break, but was frozen solid in 2wd and would have broken if I had forced it.

Here are a few tips I learned form these forums and by doing the job that might make things easier when you go to take the broken parts off and put the new assembly on:
First from under the truck remove the shift link from the old shifter (I found that's the hard part). I found using vice grip pliers to press the link off the pin worked good to get it far enough off where I could just pop it off the pin end and not mess up the bushing on the link (dorman makes replacement bushings if needed) or bend anything.
Remove the transfer case shift lever cover boot on the floor board (4 screws hold it to floor). Slide it up to the top of the shift lever out the way (insulation might initially be stuck to the floor opening under the mat) and you can easily reach the two bolts that hold the rusty plate and shift assembly on the transfer case. Take the two bolts out and take the whole assembly out the floor board hole.
Remove the pivot bolt from the plate. Mark shift lever position relative to the pinch bolt and then loosen pinch bolt to remove the shift lever from the broken parts
Clean up the plate and paint it.
Before installing the replacement assembly onto the mounting plate, take the pivot bolt out of the assembly and grease it well where it pivots and reinstall. As an alternative while you have the pivot bolt out, drill the pivot and tap for a zerk like in the link Brad posted shows.
Install the assembly on the plate and mount the assembly back to the transfer case, put the shift lever back on, align marks tighten pinch bolt, and and the floor cover back on.
Snap the shift link onto the new shifter assembly..
Shifter should be able to be shifted with two fingers from 2H to the various positions when done.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:51 AM
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You guys are insanely helpful ALWAYS. You guys never EVER disappoint.

I just got it back into 2WD like Brad said to do. I just need to see why the heck my E brake is stuck so I can get the truck to the driveway down in front of the garage. Truck is currently up in the cul de sac.

Thank you for the link Brad and thank you PHIL. You guys have helped in getting my weekend back on track and my wife will definitely appreciate me not sulking anymore..


Have a great rest of the weekend guys.

Sid
 
  #10  
Old 09-18-2018, 05:18 PM
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Hey PHIL,

Does that link stay on the shifter with the bushing? I see on my new shifter, the pin is tapered at the end and also has a groove around the end of the pin. Does the bushing somehow bite on that groove to keep the link on the shifter?
I am still soaking it with PB Blaster before I attempt your vise-grip trick. I am thinking that bushing is just going to go to pieces when I start this. the other bushing doesn't look much better at the other end of the link.
I am going to go try to find the correct bushing from Dorman as you suggested. Wouldn't know a part # by any chance would you?

Thanks for your help.

Sid
 
  #11  
Old 09-19-2018, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cityjack View Post
Hey PHIL,

Does that link stay on the shifter with the bushing? I see on my new shifter, the pin is tapered at the end and also has a groove around the end of the pin. Does the bushing somehow bite on that groove to keep the link on the shifter?
I am still soaking it with PB Blaster before I attempt your vise-grip trick. I am thinking that bushing is just going to go to pieces when I start this. the other bushing doesn't look much better at the other end of the link.
I am going to go try to find the correct bushing from Dorman as you suggested. Wouldn't know a part # by any chance would you?

Thanks for your help.

Sid

The bushing is independent of the pin and the link. The bushing is designed to go on the pin first then the link is pressed onto the bushing
 
  #12  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:41 AM
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Dorman 74043 is the replacement bushing for both ends of the bar. Also a heat gun warming the bushing tends to aid in removal.
 
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:59 AM
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As always guys, thanks a ton.

Have a great day.

Sid
 
  #14  
Old 09-19-2018, 10:25 AM
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Guys,
I never ever doubt your guys' infinite wisdom because you guys have never steered me wrong. I just want to be absolutely sure this Dorman part # of 74043 is correct for my transfer case linkage. I called Dorman, their tech support says they do not make a bushing for what I am looking for. They have an automatic transmission linkage hookup, different part #. When I gave them the 74043 #, they tell me that is for an earlier year F150/250 kick down rod/linkage. Amazon, I can have this 74043 bushing tomorrow.

I just want to be sure.

Thanks guys.

Sid
 
  #15  
Old 09-19-2018, 10:48 AM
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That bushing was used for a few things on these trucks, I have that bushing on both ends of my transfer case shifter rod, Iíve also used them on 87-91 auto shifter linkages and Iím pretty sure the c6 kick down rod uses them also.

You can also get them from ford for probably around $10-$15 each.
 

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