If the oil temp is 83 ish it'll run super rough and boggy and if i try driving when it's that low the truck rocks HARD, so i have to wait till the temp is 105-110 before attempting to drive it. Mind you it's been like 90s out where i'm at (kansas) and ihave to plug it in at night just to have it warm enough to drive early morning, otherwise i gotta wait till it warms up and the EBPV stops kicking on. Any reason for this?

 

I don't know, BUT
It sounds like injectors to me....

 

I'm guessing injectors too, mine do it. If you're running 15-40 switching to 5-40 might 'cure' it for a while. I haven't tried that yet, but it'll probably work. The cure is shimming or replacing the injectors.

 

 

I currently have my glow plugs on a push buttons because my GPR isn't getting power and warming my glow plugs when the wait light is on (possible PCM issue) and i plug the truck in and it stays about 120-140 and starts and drives perfectly. i bought the truck used, has 316k on it so the injectors could very well need replacing.

 

 

I've been curious about the cold sticking injectors and oil viscosity so yesterday I changed from Rotella 15-40 to their 5-40 and unless it was just a lucky day, it's made a world of difference. Before the oil change it was slow to fire and sounded like it was running on about 4 cylinders, it would lope hard and make scary noises. After throttling it a little it sounded to be on 5 or 6, then took quite a while for the others to kick in. This morning, a little bit colder than yesterday, it started much more quickly and only had a slight miss that went away in about 3 seconds. I only ran it about 10 seconds to not heat it up. Now 5-6 hours later I started it again and it started quickly and smoothly right away. It also seems to idle more smoothly with less crackle.

 

Just did another test start. Didn't even let the glow plugs heat up, just turned the key right to start and it lit off about as quick as an average gasser. It's low 70s out so not real cold, but cold enough that it would have normally been a hard rough start.

 

i'm gonna look into doing this as well. i've heard this multiply times

 

Was told to hold the button to energize GP's for the time of the wait light plus 5 or 10 seconds after it goes out..

 

I had a similar problem with rough running cold starts. The armature spacing on the injectors needs to be in spec or the oil will cause them to stick and misfire until the oil heats up. They make spacers to adjust the distance as it tends to decrease with wear.
The fact that the thinner oil you put in helped indicates the spacing may be decreasing.

I ended up rebuilding my injectors myself but cover the installation of the spacers. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-rebuild.html

 

so from what it seems like is that injectors need to replace sooner or later in the near future. i haven't done the oil thing cause some people say it'll hurt the engine when its running hot and whatnot.

 

You can install the spacers without removing the injectors if the truck is running good when warm.
Performing a buzz test on the injectors when cold will let you know which one(s) are causing the problem. There are you tub videos on this procedure and software that you can download for free to DIY.

 

I believe the shims for putting the armature back into specs cost a total of $40.00. You don't have to pull injectors to do this minor repair. Probably on a YOUTUBE clip.

BTW.... I'm still running my original injectors.... did replace o-rings and re-set armature spacing a while back. Trucks get 17-17.5 mpg.... NOT changing injectors until that changes...