could you snag a video?

so for the sake of discussion let's say the gauge is slow and the motor is fine. what killed my turbo?

 

I just recently learned how to post a pic. Ill never figure out video. Whether photobucket or youtube, not a chance in he$!...pm me ur email, i can forward it to you that way...will have in a.m.

 

No clue why the turbo went. I'm just looking to help keep you from possibly undergoing a big un-needed repair. So no answer on the gauge drop speed? That would pretty much tell the tale.

Normally when you start an engine the pressure rises increasingly faster towards the peak pressure and should take a second or two. When you turn it off it should do the same towards 0. If your pressure dropped at about the same rate that it rose it means that there's a restriction in the gauge. If it rises slowly at start up and drops quickly at shut down then there's a pump or engine problem.

 

Here's my .02 on the scratch on the front cover. Put the Melling in there and see what you get for pressure build time, If you're happy done....if not, then what are you out by putting it in? A little time? I'd much rather waste the time on the oil pump install than waste the time pulling the motor, changing the cover, and finding out that the pressure build time didn't change.

 

I am not sure what the minimum oil pressure required to run is, but your video shows the gauge pressure at near zero when the engine is already running. That can not be the case as oil pressure is required to fire the injectors.

 

The LPOP only needs to have a positive displacement to the HPOP....that's where the magic happens as far as the fuel side goes.

 

Hey Dan, won't this damage the new LPOP? I thought I had heard both have to be babybutt smooth? If not, good for this guy cuz pulling the motor is not gonna be fun, even though it's not that difficult.

 

truck is all pulled apart so i can't run it to get the gauge drop speed recorded.

that's the plan. and yeah, might trash the new melling - but i'd rather risk $100 to potentially save pulling the motor.

 

The scratch is from a piece of material that was harder than the aluminum diecasting, and I'll bet if you look at the side of the gerotor parts that contacted it, there won't be a scratch on them. (Or a very light and very shallow one.)

You had a piece of debris that made it through the oil pickup screen. Is there more debris of that size in the pan? Good question.

 

The scratch in the cover won't damage the new pump. For one it's an indentation, not a raised surface, and it's much softer than the pump. The only issue with that scratch is that it could allow for a small loss of flow/pressure since it won't seal as well, but I can't imagine it would be a measurable loss.

 

I get it, I was hoping you remembered what it did. If you pull the hose off the gauge and look into it you might get the answer. Most of them just use a little pressed in piece with a tiny hole, if you don't see that then it's probably not a restricted gauge, but it could have something further in where you don't see it. It doesn't much matter now, but if you get the same slow rise when the engine's back together do verify that it's not just the gauge or hose causing it. Hoping for you that that's all it was, I have high hopes that it is and your problem will be solved. Don't drop the new pump

 

back together with a melling and fresh rotella


driving, EOT=200F, some boost #s from the new (oem) turbo too:

 

Looks like the gauge lead you to replace the pump for no reason.

 

or the pump alone didn't fix the problem

still think a turbo failure at 70k has a cause - but at this point i'll just run it and see what happens.

appreciate everyone's help.

 

Stupid question did you replace the oil filter? And what brand was or is on right now?