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89 460 rv misses when hot issue

  #1  
Old 08-19-2018, 10:00 PM
Theshadows
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89 460 rv misses when hot issue

trying to track down an issue where the engine starts to miss under load after itís been driven for about 20 minutes. Once it acts up. The harder I press on the gas, the worse it gets. If I let up it straightens out and I can limp along feathering the throttle. If I pull over, shut it off and sit for 5 minutes, I can drive about 5 minutes again and it repeats the issue. Iíve put a fuel pressure gauge on it and put it through the doghouse and it reads 35-40 koeo. Driving it reads around 32 at idle and 35-40 when driving. Even at wot. When the missing occurs the fuel pressure stays at 35-40.

Both fuel pumps replaced, and fuel filter. I got the regulator and another filter but didnít get to that yet.

Rv has 43k miles. I think original plugs. I pulled the ones that are easy access and they look good. Didnít change them yet because of the pita for the front ones. I replaced the coil, distributed cap and rotor. The cap and rotor had whitish bumps on the electrodes that I have never seen before. I have new plug wires too but didnít do those yet because of same reason as the plugs.

On the the back of the motor near the top I found a vacuum line with a crack in it. I was wondering if this might be the issue.

My next steps are the fuel fuel items I purchased. I think the fuel pressure is a little low. Am I right with that.

My next thought on the ignition side is the ignition control module on the distributor. Anything else that could help me find this issue.

Also thought about looking for a cold cylinder with a friends thermal camera.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 
  #2  
Old 08-26-2018, 08:32 PM
Maillemaker
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Any resolution on this issue? Mine is doing the exact same thing. Was coming home from a trip this weekend. About 2 hours on the interstate, engine running exactly perfect temp (195F), started losing power, pulled to shoulder, engine would not idle and was worse when you stepped on gas. Popping and stumbling and eventually shuts down. Waited 30 minutes, fired right up. Got another 20 minutes down the road, same thing, but had to wait about 40 minutes for it to start running again.

When you try and start it stumble-starts while cranking like it was out of gas.

I popped the gas cap so no vaccum there.

Steve
 
  #3  
Old 08-26-2018, 09:18 PM
Theshadows
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Iím still tracking it down. Went for a drive until
it started happening with a fuel pressure gauge on and it did not change. It stayed at 35 psi. Ours idles at 32psi and drives at 35. All new fuel stuff except for the pressure regulator. I bought one just didnít put it on yet.

So im working on replacing the distributor mounted ignition control module. I bought one but have been working about 6 days trying to get it installed. The distributor is stuck in the engine block and I canít rotate it enough to get to the back screw to change it. I got it to rotate about 5 -10 deg but canít get it to go any further. I have tried heat, crescent wrenches, strap wrenches. Iím an electrician so I have a wire bender that goes on a 1/2Ē ratchet. I put it over my crescent wrench with my torque wrench and got it to go a little more but itís starting to round the hex on the distributor. Iíve heated and froze things and still no go. I only used propane and engine heat to heat though. The intake gaskets donít like the torch too much and Iím afraid to hit it with anything hotter than the propane.

Its back together and going to my mechanic now.
 
  #4  
Old 08-26-2018, 09:51 PM
wirelessengineer
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Freeze spray can help you run down which component is giving you a hard time. Get the engine up to temp so that the problem shows up, then pull over, hit ONE of the suspect components with the freeze spray, and drive. See if the problem has gone away. When you freeze a component and the problem clears up, you have found the guilty party and you can replace it.

POSSIBLE FUN VARIATION: More than one component is bad, so you have to freeze combinations to find out which are bad. Might be two out of three, might even be all three.
 
  #5  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:15 PM
Theshadows
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Thatís an awesome idea. I bought 2 cans of the stuff. Maybe I can do a test or two with the air box removed so I can get to the distributor.
 
  #6  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:47 PM
wirelessengineer
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Originally Posted by Theshadows View Post
On the the back of the motor near the top I found a vacuum line with a crack in it. I was wondering if this might be the issue.


I missed this earlier: Yes, it's possible. Probably not, but possible. A good principle is to fix known problems first, then look for more trouble.

An easy way to fix a small crack in a vacuum line is to paint it with liquid electrical tape. The best fix is to replace the line, of course, but sometimes that can be a major project. Painting it with the tape will often give you a fix that lasts a few years. Worst case, it will help diagnose the problem.
 
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:52 PM
Theshadows
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Thatís already fixed. I found an elbow that was a little longer and cut it down to size. Usually a vacuum leak means a high idle and I didnít have that so I didnít think that was the problem. I fixed it regardless. It is some kind of vacuum line on the back of the intake. I didnít trace my t out to find out what it goes to.

Iím going to ask my mechanic to change the plugs and wires too. I have them but have been dreading the front 3 cylinders that are hard to acccess.
 
  #8  
Old 08-27-2018, 08:57 AM
Maillemaker
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So im working on replacing the distributor mounted ignition control module.
I believe the ICM is on the fender (driver side). Are you talking about the PIP inside the distributor?

Steve
 
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:10 AM
Theshadows
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There are two different models from my understanding. Mine is on the dizzy. The gray thing on the left. I need to rotate it 90 deg or so to get to the back bolt. Yes I did remove the bolt that holds the dizzy in place. This pic was before I tried to move it so I could get it back to close to the same spot.


 
  #10  
Old 08-27-2018, 11:03 AM
Maillemaker
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Interesting. I guess they moved it in 1990.

Steve
 
  #11  
Old 08-31-2018, 09:15 AM
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My new ICM has come in. Can't fiddle with the RV this weekend as I am going out of town. Can't wait to try it.

Steve
 
  #12  
Old 09-24-2018, 01:15 PM
Maillemaker
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I installed my ICM on my fender this weekend and went for a test drive. No shut-down issues, but temps were only in the 80s so the engine never got over 194 F. I hope the ICM was the problem.

Steve
 
  #13  
Old 09-25-2018, 11:34 AM
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Hold on a minute what year is your truck?
That dizzy is for a remote ignition module... the wiring harness coming out of the lower body goes to it. The module bolted on the side of the dizzy in that pic shouldn't be there and isn't doing anything so don't bother replacing it.

Originally Posted by Theshadows View Post


 
  #14  
Old 11-05-2018, 09:19 AM
Maillemaker
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An update on my issue. 1990 Winnebago Warrior with E350 Ford 460 engine.

Replaced the ICM back in September. I have since been on two trips - one 5 hour round trip one 6-hour round trip, and no issues. However, it is now fall and temps were lower. On latest trip temps were in the 50s and the engine never got over 190F.

Steve
 
  #15  
Old 11-09-2018, 12:27 PM
BigDan1
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Oh geeese , this reminds me of my problem , 96 , E350 based RV 460 code G .....

Since I rebuilded my 460 to 400 hp I have that type of problem : after about 20 mins of riding it hesitates bad , wont take it , until I coast steady , .....
never will it do it when cold ,,,,only after a good ride .....and only on normal accell.....If I floor it ,it goes great ....idles good too ............

I had a gray ICM that had no IDM signal to PCM or ICM
changed ICM to black one ( 96 E350 ) codes finally came out , changed coolant sensor , was way out ,TPS is perfect (checked voltage at 24 throtlle positions ), MAP frequencies are great , now code 111 ( system pass ) but it still does the problem

I`M at the point that I think I may have a bad ground in the electronic system , because WHY when after a good ride only , it should do bad after start up .....It fells like if something is overheating and giving a bad signal ....

anyone knows where is the ground stud or bolt for these ,.....I`m there !

p.s: at least I dont feel alone with this problem ....

Thanks
Daniel
 

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