6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Oil filter change mess?

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  #16  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:26 PM
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I just change it cold and use a big enough drain pan. I just loosen the filter, let it drain for a while and remove it and sit it in the pan. I use gloves too. 🙄
 
  #17  
Old 08-19-2018, 02:37 AM
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A large ziplock bag over the filter after its loosened enough to loosen by hand.
cold oil changes work just as well, of not better, than hot oil changes.
 
  #18  
Old 08-19-2018, 06:20 PM
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I think hot changes keep sludge buildup over time to a minimum.
 
  #19  
Old 08-19-2018, 07:57 PM
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I prefer the hot change, but only with the Fumoto valve in place. I would do a lukewarm change otherwise.
 
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:24 AM
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I go the "large enough pan" route with the oil fill cap off. Question for the hole punching method - doesn't it take "forever" for the oil to drain out? After removing the filter the "making a mess" method I usually hold the filter upside down over the pan and let it drain. Then set it aside. After I remove the plug from the oil pan (not a Fumoto fan, leaves too much old oil in the oil pan for me) I empty the filter again, there is always oil in the bottom of the filter. I then set it aside again, let the oil drain and again there is oil in the filter. So my question is, how long does it take for the oil to drain out of the hole in the filter? So I typed this whole thing and dam, my age comes through again, if I use a big enough collection pan, punch the hole, let it drain as I let the oil drain from the oil pan. I usually do a "fluid check" while the oil is draining from the oil pan.
 
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:30 AM
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After punching a hole I can cleanly take the filter off about 10 minutes later Chuck.
 
  #22  
Old 08-20-2018, 07:44 AM
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I will have to try punching the hole in the bottom deeper next time THANKS
 
  #23  
Old 08-20-2018, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
After punching a hole I can cleanly take the filter off about 10 minutes later Chuck.
I'm about the same. The genius of the Fumoto is that you can be draining the pan (with a hose attached to the fumoto valve) and the filter at the same time without missing any oil.
 
  #24  
Old 08-20-2018, 11:31 AM
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A single punch to the oil filter works for me. About 10 minutes and the filter can be removed. I use a gallon ZipLock bag that I have around the filter as it unscrew it from the truck therefore most all of the drips stay in the bag. I am a big fan of the Fumoto valve. You can start and stop the drain, and drain hot oil without worrying about getting burns.
 
  #25  
Old 08-20-2018, 12:47 PM
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Good point on starting and stopping David. I actually let mine drain right back into empty 1 gallon oil jugs for easy returning to the store. When one is full, shut the valve, swap it to the next, and open it back up again.
 
  #26  
Old 08-20-2018, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
Good point on starting and stopping David. I actually let mine drain right back into empty 1 gallon oil jugs for easy returning to the store. When one is full, shut the valve, swap it to the next, and open it back up again.
That is precisely what I do. I drain from the truck into a 1 gallon oil jugs and store/collect into a 5 gallon container outside that gets recycled when full. My 5 gallon container doesn't fit under the truck without the truck being on ramps. I can also seal the 1 gallon jug while carrying without worrying about spillage.
 
  #27  
Old 08-20-2018, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-B
After I remove the plug from the oil pan (not a Fumoto fan, leaves too much old oil in the oil pan for me)
I just received my EZ drain and I can't see how "too much" is left behind. The threaded part that goes in to the oil pan is not that thick. The oil that doesn't get drained seems like it would be a minuscule amount.
 
  #28  
Old 08-20-2018, 09:42 PM
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I use an awl to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter. I do not use the center of the filter, instead about an inch from the edge. I've had one mess using this process and I believe it was from not punching deep enough into the filter media. I now punch all the way to the handle of the awl, roughly 5-6 inches deep and have not had a mess yet since doing so.

My process for no mess

- Bring engine to full operating temp, usually park it at the edge of the garage door after returning home from work.
- Pop the hood, remove oil fill cap and drink a beer while the engine cools a bit.
- Gather the 4 - 1 gallon jugs from previous oil change, 4 new gallons of oil and the filter.
- Grab some rags, a pair of rubber gloves, hammer, awl, piece of cardboard, a large container to catch oil for the "just in case the filter makes a mess scenario", and two blocks of wood. And also a filter wrench just in case I'm not feeling as tough as I was during the last oil change.
- Place cardboard under oil pan and filter areas. Place blocks of wood directly under the drain valve, place empty gallon jug on the wood blocks, this bring the mouth of the jug about 1 inch from the bottom of the fumoto valve, no mess if the wind decides to pick up.
- after 3 gallons have been collected from the oil pan, grab the awl and hammer it into the bottom of the filter until it hits the handle. With the awl still in place put block of wood under the filter, have the 4th gallon jug in arms reach. Using one hand pull the awl out of the filter while plugging the hole with a finger from the other hand. Place jug on block of wood directly under hole and remove finger.
- drink another beer and fill new filter with oil
- remove wood blocks and oil jugs from filter area, place large container under the filter, then loosen with both hands or filter wrench.
- If all went well no mess, coat new filter o-ring with oil and screw on to hand tight.
- celebrate with another beer and add 3 gallons of new oil to the engine
- Start engine check for leaks. Shut off engine then top off oil to full level on dipstick.
- Reset oil life monitor and record mileage of oil change in log book.
 
  #29  
Old 08-21-2018, 08:11 AM
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I have the EZ drain too. I put a hose on the end and then redirect the oil that is draining into the pan while I place it under the filter area for that process.

Either the fumoto or ez drain make things easier.
 
  #30  
Old 08-21-2018, 12:08 PM
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I dropped the oil in my truck last night (well, early this morning by the time I got to it). I replaced the plastic pan/plug with a metal pan+Fumoto valve. During the process I was working on cleaning up from my front end rebuild in between. So I dropped the oil and let it sit. I punched 3 holes in the filter with the handle end of a chainsaw chain sharpening file. The first one was in the bottom center up at a bit of an angle. I pounded the file in 3 inches or more in to the filter. Second hole was on the side at the bottom. I pounded the file in about 1.5-2". Third hole was in the side about 3" up, another 1.5-2" in. Oil came out of the bottom 2 holes only.

I left it sit for a while then dropped the lower oil pan. I let everything sit and drip for a long time. I wanted all the oil run out of the block so I didn't have any residual seeping down over the pan joint with things going back together. I forget how long it sat, but it was the better part of an hour or two.

I had no oil coming out of the holes in the filter at this point. So I went to loosen the filter and the same thing - oil spilled over the sides.

I use 5gal buckets - one for the main pan and one for the filter. I let the oil seep around the side of the filter until it stopped. Then I pulled the filter and dropped it in the pan I had with the lower oil pain.

I don't think there is any time to wait to where the oil won't seep out of the sides of the filter. I would be curious to see a cross section of that side of the circuit to see why - where is the oil coming from and why is it not coming out when draining the filter with the hole method? Something is holding it back - the question is what and how do you get through it so you can get all the oil out before breaking the seal at the top?
 


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