Hello everyone, I have a 01 7.3, been chasing a ghost since December, at first I did the usual plugged all the oil leaks rebuilt hpop, new gray cps, Icp and ipr all from Ford, bought AE, I couldn't tell you all the codes from then, buzz test, barely a sound replaced valve cover gaskets with one piece wire and glow plugs, ( they now have the Ford gasket and wires learned that one the hard way ) replaced the injectors in and out several times, I kept checking for torn orings, then did the Cody test both heads hold air 125 psi overnight, got the high pressure test gauge and dead headed hpop heads at 3000 hpop hit 3750, no leak I can find, please remember up to 165 degrees everything is great, once oil temp goes past it falls on it's face. Everything I have done has helped, I also have a 99.5 that has 670,000 miles that runs great and I have been comparing all my readings, I recently saw one annomoly my readings on pressure was 850 duty cycle 10% and voltage .95 at cold start, oil was 88 degrees, warmed up truck and took off pressure was 1750 duty cycle 20% and voltage 1.5, then it fell on it's face, the voltage does not ever match up, and I have not seen it go over 1.7 volts, I know I'm probably skipping some things in this story and I can confirm or deny all my steps if someone can help out, and no there are no shops in my area that Im aware of which I trust, believe me I've asked. Thank you.

 

I am no expert on this and am only asking questions to see if one of the local up to speed guys will show up. First, stop spending money until you find out what is wrong. Where and how are you reading oil temp, is this a 6 speed? What is the water temp when the oil temp hits 165? I don't know why your truck would lose power at that oil temp .
I have direct gauges for oil and coolant temps plus a Scangauge II that I can read coolant and oil temps on. (My truck is a 6 speed) When I see 165 on my oil gauges my water temp is about the same, truck not at operating temp yet. I don't see good readings till the water temp is at full operating tempwhich can be as high as 2015 or more sometimes.
Bill

 

 

 

Didn't mention mileage on this truck.
Isn't there trouble like this with warm oil in worn injector popets? I can't remember, nodding off in bed here. Does shimming fix this, or am i thinking cold oil winter problems....

 

The poppet issues are a problem when cold, they subside as the truck warms.

 

Thank you for the replys, I get my readings with AE, the truck has actually has 380,000 ( found out by doing deep dive on it someone rolled the odometer back ), I revisited tugglys AE class, tried to record ( I'll get it ), so I recorded a few minutes on my phone then hooked AE to my good running 99.5 7.3 and watched Icp pressure 470 and 530, duty 7.3% and voltage .86, oil temp 150, what I saw happening on my 01 7.3 was icp pressure going between 430 and 550 duty cycle 6.7 up to 11%, voltage .86 up to 1.03, oil temp 150, both trucks at idle, it looked to me that the ipr in the 01 was trying to keep the pressure steady so I believe the ipc and ipr are working properly, I also observed icp pressure on my 99 at start spiked to 2750, and the 01 icp pressure 2250, ( I forgot to mentioned in my first post that I checked my heads and hpop pressure on the 01 ) when I did a quick test today on the 01 hooked up leads to ipr unplugged injectors watched my AE had my wife turn over truck the hpop pressure went to 2250 with the ipr commanded shut and would not hold instantly drop out when she quit turning over truck, all this in the space of 20 seconds, did it twice, this leads me to believe the hpop has an internal bleed, yes it's a reman hpop, 2nd one, first one warranty same problems. All in all the hpop is the only part I threw at it, all the others where needed, previous owner shorted the iat and never fixed it shorting out wires that took forever to find and fix, ended up getting a different engine harness and put new plugs on it, and ohmed every wire back to pcm, pcm was not fried it's in my 99 and my 99 is in the 01, and the idm is good, I just get p1211 code now.

 

To rigcity, yes to your questions no oil impregnation, nut is tight, used a good ipr to check ( out of running truck )

 

Also updated hpop hoses and crossover, fuel crossover, fuel pressure at 65 psi under load, melling lpop 45 psi under load, ( meaning driving ), new up pipes, 6637 air filter, upgraded starter ( wow it's like stepping on a banana peel ), rebuilt oil cooler ( all safety's in tack ) yes it has some blow by but when it ran decent (150 miles top ) 21 mpg

 

Two things on the top of the list what will cause the truck to die when it warms up are the IPR and injector O rings. The IPR acts up when it gets hot and the injector O rings let hot, thinner oil through where it won't go through when the oil is cool and thick.

 

I had to re-read your post walleye, yes the ipr could cease to function properly when hot but what are the odds, o rings no leaks they are good, I'm 99% positive on that.

 

The odds are so great that that is the first thing I would check. When it quits try cooling the IPR with water or canned air and see if it changes it's attitude.

 

The Cody Test will verify oring leak/s at the INJECTOR/s..thus, losing hpop pressure if oring/s are bad...need to remove valve covers

 

I'm with Walleye on this one, the odds are not very high, but how many of us thought we would see a total solar eclipse in our lifetime? I was in the path of totality and it was pretty cool.

Like he said, canned air turned upside down directly on the IPR when it is dead or stumbling and see what happens.

Parts go bad, sometimes parts are bad out of the box, it happens.

 

Timmyboy I've done the Cody test numerous times blocking off heads no air leaks, walleye I will try the canned air later today, am working on a motel that hydro locked hot water return.
( Plumber chuck 🤨 )