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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

C6 to a ZF5--All the small stuff.

 
  #106  
Old 02-13-2019, 10:16 AM
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Driveshafts: I found that it is possible to use the front half of the zf two part driveshaft with the back half of the two part c6 shaft. They fit together perfectly. However, the u joints are smaller with the c6 shafts.

Exhaust: I have shorty headers, and today I'll be making a new exhaust system, two 2.5" collectors going into one 3" tube for about 6 feet, then when the gas has cooled, the tube will reduce to one 2.5" through a Flowmaster 50, and out the passenger back corner with 2.5" tube. I'll be making the Y pipe myself, cutting the bends out of a J pipe and welding them in. I'll be sure tp post photos.



 
  #107  
Old 02-13-2019, 08:41 PM
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I refused to spend more $ and buy 2.5" bends, so I cut up two 2.5" to 3" reducers so I could weld it right onto the collector flange. I had a 3" J bend I could cut up for multiple angles, but space was tight off the collectors, so I did this to go right to 3" tube:



Then I was able to cut up the 3" J pipe and direct the pipe around the frame and starter. I'll post more pics tomorrow.
 
  #108  
Old 02-15-2019, 09:50 AM
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I'm going from shorty headers, both on the same side since the engine is an inline 6. The collectors are 2.5" tube. I went from the 2.5" to one single 3" pipe. That meant making a merge pipe. Banging around from below the vehicle or reaching down into the engine compartment with the frame and starter and wiring in the way is difficult. More so when you're trying to size up a 3" section of tube. I found that with this (below) 3" flex duct I could easily cut it and form bends with my hands. That made it perfect for making a template to get any complicated piece correct.





By cutting off sections of a J pipe, I was able to use those angles to route the pipe any way I needed it to go. Below:







Since my collector flanges were 2.5" and my tube was 3", I took a reducer fitting from Azone and cut it down since space was limited. That allowed me to go right to an angle with the 3".



I had a set of Hedman long tube headers on this before. They took over that side of the engine bay, not to mention they sealed in the starter, making one use a crow bar and C clamps to R & R the starter. The shorties have half the surface. That means less heat in the engine bay, which might show up in mpg. There was no room to run dual, so I jumped up to single 3". I'll use that for about 8 feet. The gasses should have cooled a bit by then and so I'll drop down to single 2.5" tube where it goes into a Flowmaster 50, and goes out the passenger rear corner with a 2.5" tail pipe.

Long tube headers amplify the high end characteristics of an engine. Short tube headers amplify the bottom end. Perfect for a 300 that will seldom spin more then 5K.

Below are two photos showing the long tube vs. the short tube headers:





 
  #109  
Old 02-24-2019, 11:01 AM
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Dana 60 yoke: When I was at the j/y I took the yoke from an f250 that was zf equipped, took drive line too. The zf takes a wider U joint that my c6 line used. When I went to change out the yokes I found that the c6 yoke takes a 1 5/16" socket. The 91 truck takes a 1 1/4". Not a big deal unless you've purchased a 1 1/4" just for the job. Then you have make a special trip to buy another socket. Lowes sells individual large sockets for about $8.00.

The yoke in the rear of the zf is 35mm.



I'm hoping that the yokes, both for Dana 60's, are interchangeable, but I'll find out.

Speedometer cable: Next, I'll be trying out the speedo cable from the c6. I've been told that the c6 cable works w/o issue in the zf. I'll soon find out.

Driveshaft Note: The zf is shorter than the c6. To compensate, ford made the front ds longer, so it was possible to use the back half of my c6 ds with the front half of the zf one. The splines of the slip joint are compatible. Whether using the entire zf shaft, or the back half of the c6 and the front of the zf one together, you can use the same mounting place for the support bearing, but you will have to drill new mounting holes.

In the photo below you can see that the two driveshafts, both with two shafts, are the same overall length if you do away with the spline slip joint shaft that slips into the rear of the c6.

 
  #110  
Old 03-13-2019, 12:21 AM
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Recap: The C6 tail mount bolts right to the Zf5, no mods needed. The support bearing on the ZF driveshaft will bolt right to the oe mounting place on a 73-79 F series, with a c6, but you have to drill 2 holes to bolt it up. No biggy.

The C6 oe speedo bolts right to the early zf5, gear and all, into the factory hole, o ring seals, and the zf fastener even fits the 73-79 F series cable mount.

Project is coming along.

 
  #111  
Old 03-13-2019, 12:09 PM
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This project is getting very exciting. Lots of effort put in and it's gone so far. Don't stop with the updates!
 
  #112  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
This project is getting very exciting. Lots of effort put in and it's gone so far. Don't stop with the updates!
I had my body weight, rocking up and down on a breaker bar to remove the nut to the Dana 60 yoke on the rear. Man! I heated it and tried. Nothing. I need to attack it differently. I have to regroup.

I filled the trans with Mercon once I got a pump. 3.38 quarts, iirc.
 
  #113  
Old 03-14-2019, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
I had my body weight, rocking up and down on a breaker bar to remove the nut to the Dana 60 yoke on the rear. Man! I heated it and tried. Nothing. I need to attack it differently. I have to regroup.

I filled the trans with Mercon once I got a pump. 3.38 quarts, iirc.
Breaker bar extension - a long piece of pipe that fits over the handle of the breaker bar. This is what I use every time I have a problem with a stubborn nut.
 
  #114  
Old 03-15-2019, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
Breaker bar extension - a long piece of pipe that fits over the handle of the breaker bar. This is what I use every time I have a problem with a stubborn nut.
Thanks. I think I'll put one side on a jack stand with the wheel removed, and put a piece of angle iron in the lug nut and the ground to stop the axle from turning, and then use the pipe on the breaker bar.

BTW, **For all those doing the zf swap: when it comes time to fill the trans with fluid, you have to get a $10 pump to put the fluid in. BEWARE, STP sells the Mercron V ATF in bottles that look exactly like their motor oil. I put a couple of squirts of oil in my trans before I realized it, and had to drain it. Luckily, I only wasted one quart ($7.00) of fluid. Much cheaper than putting p/s fluid in a new brake system--no comment!--but it could had had bad consequences had I not caught it.

I know this thread is for the zf, but my trans went in with a new engine, new hydroboost brakes, Saginaw p/s pump and braided lines, so I'm throwing in these photos since the project is nearly done. Oh, I highly recommend the Nicop brake lines. So much easier to work with. I bought a 25' roll, and it did the brakes from rear axle forward.






I also installed a volvo controller for my efans, and a new 80 amp relay, which is way over the top, but I had it so I used it. OMGoodness, I can actually start working on the interior of the cab. Huh!

Now, I have to figure out how to wire the reverse lights through the ZF. That and the driveshaft if all that is left. That is aside from new floor insulation, new carpet, sound barrier, installation of 3 point retractable seat belts for the first time, and a new speedo so I can calculate mpg.
 
  #115  
Old 03-18-2019, 11:28 AM
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This is quickly turning from a transmission thread into a build thread. I like it

That inline 6 will be a killer combo with the ZF-5speed. I like where this is going!
 
  #116  
Old 03-18-2019, 05:52 PM
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Carrier Bearing Mount: I made a mistake when I said that the front shaft from a 90's F250 with a zf would fit the mount of a dentside f250. It won't. I need to make some modifications. Either that or have the front shaft remade shorter. Guess which is less expensive. You're so cleaver. Yeps, me modifying the mount should cost only time.

The bolt holes actually hit the oem 70's mount, but right on the edge. I will take of photo of what I come up with. It should be fairly easy, w/o welding.

I took the drive shafts in to have the rear one retubed, and to have the entire thing balanced. I curious about the price. Spicer U joints and and a carrier bearing were on the shafts, so I'm hoping it won't cost too much.

I'm still trying to find the time to take the pinion nut off and see if the yoke I have off a 90's f250 with a dana 60 will fit my dana 60. Hope so, or I'll have to order a new one.

Steering issue: When I welded in some plate to fix the cracked frame at the steering box, the box got moved 1/2" to the passenger side, as I said before, so now I'm waiting on a double swivel U joint, $142, from Borgeson, via Summit. To install it you have to cut off the oe flange on your column shaft. You also have the grind down the edge of the splines because they are mushroomed out. Shaft is 3/4" with 36 spline.

But to get the double U joint on I have move the column further into the cab, beyond the limit of the oe mounting bracket. Dang it! That means, you guessed it, I'll have to modify the column mount, allowing for another 1 1/2" movement. I hope that doesn't make for uncomfortable steering wheel placement.
 
  #117  
Old 03-18-2019, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
This is quickly turning from a transmission thread into a build thread. I like it

That inline 6 will be a killer combo with the ZF-5speed. I like where this is going!
Thanks, Aaron. The engine will have more hp and torque than a stock 360. I agree that the zf should be the perfect combo to power and mpg. I wanted to use the longer rods out of a 240 Inline. That would have allowed for shorter pistons, less friction, and a better crank angle. But, I'll be happy with what I have. I'm really curious about the custom cam.
 
  #118  
Old 03-20-2019, 09:56 AM
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Center support bearing mount: Back before this began I pulled the d.shafts out of a 92 F250 that had a zf5. As with the c6, this was a two piece d.shaft with a center support bearing. The piece that bolt to the zf yoke is short and has the bearing attached. Below:



Although the new bearing lined up with the oem bracket on my truck, the bolt holes were at the edge of the mounting bracket. It was not possible to simply drill new holes. I had to extend the bracket. How I did that was simple. I took a piece of 1 1/2" strap, 1/4" thick, cut it and drilled mounting holes. Then I welded on larger piece on to of the first, 2.5" x 7", and drilled holes for the bearing. The bearing/d.shaft will hang 1/2" lower than oem, but that should not be a problem. Putting the one piece of metal atop the other gave me room to insert bolts. Here is a photo before it got painted.



Here it is bolted to the oem mount. I did round one corner to stay away from the side gas tank.



I knew I would be doing welding of this sort prior to starting the project. I had a little 120v wire feed welder, but this was beyond its capabilities, I knew. I had to run 240v to the garage just for this project, off an electrical box from 1954! Then I bought a used Montgomery ward arc welder, along with a gas set up. The arc welder had not been used in 40 years, but still worked great.





 
  #119  
Old 03-21-2019, 10:56 AM
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Steering box moved as part of the frame work. That meant the rag joint would not connect.







 
  #120  
Old 03-22-2019, 11:31 PM
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I fired it up for the first time. It is a monster. If the stock 300 inline six is the normal guy on the street, this is the loud defensive lineman who plays for the NFL. It is loud and way aggressive and rude. Anyone at a light beside me will look over and think: "What the heck is that?"

Clutch pedal: The oem spring does not function right with the mods I did. I have to remove it and/or supplement it with a conventional return spring.
 

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