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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

C6 to a ZF5--All the small stuff.

 
  #16  
Old 08-24-2018, 11:03 AM
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Personally, I would turn down the bronze bushings and install. One of those "while I'm here" moments. Less things to go wrong later (potentially). Murphy's law comes to mind.
 
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Old 08-24-2018, 11:38 AM
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Aaron-71: You're trying to make more work for me, aren't you? ha ha. I understand your point.

Had a buddy from Regina. I always remember him saying it was so flat there he could stand on a chair and watch his dog run away for three days. I have that image in my head every time someone mentions Regina. Cheers.
 
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Old 08-24-2018, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
Aaron-71: You're trying to make more work for me, aren't you? ha ha. I understand your point.

Had a buddy from Regina. I always remember him saying it was so flat there he could stand on a chair and watch his dog run away for three days. I have that image in my head every time someone mentions Regina. Cheers.
Hahaha naw, not trying to make more work. Just sharing what I would do - Murphy likes me more than you I think so you might be better off not doing anything lol.

Quite right! It's extremely flat here - I've heard that saying since I was a child and it's somewhat true... as long as you've got 20/20 vision haha. Keep up the great work!
 
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:01 PM
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I was looking at modifying the end of the clutch master. I'd like to do away with the plastic bushing Ford put there in the eye. I like what I see in this link, but I believe I will use a threaded heim joint, with a nut on the shaft to lock the heim joint into position.

Heim Joint Mod | Clutch Rod Upgrade for 1988 to 1997 F-Series
 
  #20  
Old 08-26-2018, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
Hahaha naw, not trying to make more work. Just sharing what I would do - Murphy likes me more than you I think so you might be better off not doing anything lol.

Quite right! It's extremely flat here - I've heard that saying since I was a child and it's somewhat true... as long as you've got 20/20 vision haha. Keep up the great work!
Oh no, Murph' and I go way back.

The 2x ZF is quite different from the 4x ZF. It lacks the flat tail to stand it on while pulling the case off. Therefore I'm building a quick stand to hold the trans while I pull. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
 
  #21  
Old 08-28-2018, 01:28 AM
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Today I pulled the case off the ZF. Since I have the 2x model, it does not stand on its end as the 4x zf does. I had to build a simple platform out of plywood and 2x4's to hold it up. It was simple to do. It really helped to have an engine hoist to lift and position the trans (200lbs), as well as to pull the case off.



Tip: carefully check the allen heads of the shift rail bolts when you try to undo them. Because mine were clean, I found tiny oem brass plugs inserted where the allen wrench goes! If they are covered with grease, you might think the heads are stripped. Here is one of the plugs below:



I also had to take a utility knife blade and carefully hammer it between the cases where the gasket goes, to get it to separate. The purpose of pulling the case was to judge the state of the 1990 ZF that I have. I have to say that I hit the mother lode: It looks new! The synchros are pointed and sharp, and the gears have sharp edges. The sliders the same.




I did have a minor 'oh no' moment. I was dinkering with the spring and gizmo below the shifter tower, when the spring sprung and fell into the trans. That was not good since I had just put it all back together! Luckily, I was able to hoist it up, tilt it toward the drain plug, and fish out the spring through the drain hole with a telscopeic magnet. "Whew!"



Here is a shot of the stand I made to hold the trans upright.



Now that I know the trans is good, I can continue with the other aspects of the install.
 
  #22  
Old 08-28-2018, 09:05 AM
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Very neat. I didn't know that the ZF5 had such a weird way of spilling its guts. Interesting that the case comes off of the entire set-up... wonder if anyone has ever made a clear case for the ZF5 - would be cool watch it while it worked haha.
 
  #23  
Old 08-28-2018, 03:06 PM
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RE: Fomoco nylon bushing: I wouldn't let anyone talk me into trying to make an Oilite bushing fit where a nylon bushing had worked successfully for 40 years. Use the time you save to do something more important. Even if the bushing evaporated your pedal would still work. One of the things that happens in forums is everyone has to put in their 2 cents worth and they will spend your time and money trying to prove they are smarter than you. Also, you are not immune from Mr. Murphy when trying to make something fit!

R.
 
  #24  
Old 08-28-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dogdays View Post
RE: Fomoco nylon bushing: I wouldn't let anyone talk me into trying to make an Oilite bushing fit where a nylon bushing had worked successfully for 40 years.
Did you read the Heim joint mod link he posted? Have a look at the photos in the link - that's why you don't use plastic bushings lol.

Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
I'd like to do away with the plastic bushing Ford put there in the eye. I like what I see in this link, but I believe I will use a threaded heim joint, with a nut on the shaft to lock the heim joint into position.

Heim Joint Mod | Clutch Rod Upgrade for 1988 to 1997 F-Series
 
  #25  
Old 08-28-2018, 06:58 PM
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Thanks for your concerns and observations. I tried to turn down the bronze bushings and found that it would be a lot of work. I don't have a lathe, nor do I want to pay a machine shop to do it. So, it meant rigging up a mickey-mouse set up with a drill motor. What I found was that it took more time than I am willing to put into it. I also realized that the oem plastic bushing I removed from this junkyard pedal assembly was still in good shape! And new ones cost only $1.95!! I think they are like everything else: if you don't abuse them, and dab a bit of grease on them once every so often, they'll last for ages. These are not like the plastic eye bushing in the clutch master cylinder to pedal eye (which I will be replacing with a heim joint). That bushing receives the same pressure in the same spot every time the clutch is applied. However, the bushings I'm speaking of spin and take pressure 360*. Maybe that is why they last so long. If they wear out, hey, I remove one nut, drop the pedals, swap out the bushings (for a whopping $4.00) and away I go. Bottom line: I don't want to work for eight hours to make a replacement for a part that costs next to nothing--especially if the oem one lasts for ages.

Clutch Master Firewall re-enforcement: Basically, I'm going to make a combination of the two following brackets. I took them both from online.





Like in the bottom image, I am going to weld a bolt to my clutch pedal. I need to visit my local steel yard and buy some scrap plate.

Clutch master plunger shaft eye replacement (with heim joint).



In the above photo you can see the plastic bushing I will be doing away with when the new one arrives.
 
  #26  
Old 09-01-2018, 11:23 AM
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I noticed that the c6 and zf driveshafts have the slip joint and carrier bearing in different places. Does that matter?

The front shaft is longer on the d.shaft I took from a 90's f250 with a zf. That places the carrier bearing further to the rear of the truck.

Was that done simply to dodge or avoid something on the newer model? I mean it will change the angle of the rear shaft, but that should be fine, right? Below, you can see the two drive lines. The rusty one is what is going in, after a new shaft is made.

 
  #27  
Old 09-01-2018, 04:32 PM
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This is a super cool project. I love the idea of a modern 5 speed in an early F series. Nice work!
 
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Old 09-05-2018, 07:17 PM
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You know what guys, I'm taking the time to throw out a lot of information and photos. However, when I ask questions I get zero response. That tells me I'm wasting my time with this thread so I think I'll simply allow it to die.
 
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
You know what guys, I'm taking the time to throw out a lot of information and photos. However, when I ask questions I get zero response. That tells me I'm wasting my time with this thread so I think I'll simply allow it to die.
Don't give up on the thread. Just because no one has responded doesn't mean we don't want to help you. Just give it time. We all just had a long drunken weekend. We still need to gather our thoughts on your issue. This swap has been completed by about a hand full of guys here so hopefully one of them will chime in.
I have not done this swap (yet), but I have read where guys ditch the whole old driveshaft and replace it with a longer solid one.
 
  #30  
Old 09-06-2018, 08:31 AM
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You could look into the short shifter for the trans as well... I think Midwest makes it?
 

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