My intake is leaking at the aluminum thermostat crossover. The truck is a 2004 Expedition with the 5.4 2v and 155k miles and it runs great. Is there any other "while you're in there" items you guys suggest that I should do while I am tearing it apart?

The wife is pushing for me to get it done, so I need to start ordering parts soon and I don't have a lot of time to search and read a bunch.
For the intake manifold, I am looking at the Dorman 615-188.
I am thinking of putting in a timing set to get new guides and chains. I am looking at the Cloyes 90391SH set from Rock Auto. If I do the timing chains, I haven't decided to rent or buy the timing tools.
If I do pull the front cover and there is minimal damage to the guides, do I still need to pull the oil pan? Should I change the oil pump?
Also I have noticed that some people replace the fuel injector O-rings.
Spark plugs and COP boots were changed at around 105k, so I don't feel they need it again.

Let me know if you have any thoughts.

Kevin

 

Change the coolant line O ring running the in the valley of the engine, you sure its a rod knock and not a valve terrain knock? I would inspect the cam caps and see if they are worn out, i just went thru this with one of the work trucks, I could of gotten away with a junkyard head but the engine also has over 300k so I just did the timing componets and installed some used cam caps.

 

I don't have a full time knock yet. During the summer months it only has the exhaust manifold tick. I just figure it needs the guides and I will already have some of the top of the engine off.

Although in the cooler times of the year it does make more of a knocking noise when it first starts until it runs a few minutes.

Do you happen to have the part number for the coolant O ring?

Thanks.

Kevin

 

Adam, I have to say that things around here are extremely quiet compared to the diesel side of this site.

Kevin

 

It is quite around here, but thats a good thing just go to show how reliable these engines really are compare to the diesels lol....

I have no part # on the O ring, I have assorments of O rings and got the one that matched, im pretty sure the local autoparts have them or any hydraulic shop.

 

Since you're half way into the lifecycle of the spark plugs I would definitely change them, but not the COPs. For the 40 or so dollars it will cost for the plugs you'll be grateful in 50K miles that you did them now.

 

I am still working on it and maybe we will get it back together tomorrow. And yes, I couldn't resist and I changed the spark plugs last night. I didn't want to change them and take a chance at messing up the head. But now I am glad that I changed them.



The spark plug holes were just sitting there taunting me.

I just hope it all works out and runs good.

Thank you.

Kevin

 

And associated instructional video:
This might be good to do while you're in there, just to prevent future issues.

 

Check the knock sensor wire at the plug by the firewall. Personally I'd replace it, Bosch is OE. I had to remove the intake for the $20 part because the wire was broke and gounding out giving me the knock sensor code. Maybe replace the coolant temp sensor as well for less than $10. New thermostat and o-ring less than $10. New belt if it hasn't been replaced.

 

That is an interesting tool. I had read about them before but have not watched the video. I hope that I never need it.

Thank you.

Kevin

 

I did not change the knock sensor or the temp sensor. I had given it some thought, but I guess I am loving the punishment. I did grease the 3 idler pullies and the tensioner pulley and put a new belt on it. The Dorman intake came with a thermostat and I used it, but I am a bit skeptical if it is good or not.

The truck is back together and running good. After the first short test drive I had a lot of coolant in the valley that was dripping off the heater pipe that runs through the valley. I though I may have damaged it or poked a hole in it, but it actually was leaking from the rubber hose connection above it that you can see in the picture I posted earlier that I forgot to put the spring clamp back down.

For those of you keeping track or like carnage, here is some pics.

Right side tensioner has broken place in gasket. Tensioner guide almost completely worn down and ready to start breaking away.


Left side tensioner gasket is flat, but complete and tensioner guide is worn some.

Neither chain guide was broken. I did not use cam tools. I set the crank at 12:00 and the right cam moved some when I took the old chain off but did not have a valve come in contact with a piston. I did not pull the oil pump to check the pickup screen. My oldest daughter came over to help and it took us about 22 hours due to cleaning parts, repeated trips to parts stores and other problems. A lot of time added in because we didn't know what we were doing. Luckily the only other casualties were old soft rubber vacuum lines.

For the record, 2004 Expedition 5.4 2v, 155,000 miles. Bought it with 35,000 miles on it in 2005. I do 4k oil changes with Motorcraft oil 5w20 synthetic blend and Motorcraft filter.

I am glad this project is over.

Kevin

 

I hope not to need it, but if I've ever got the engine that far apart, I think the extra $300 would be worth it to me... We'll see if I cross that bridge...