6.0l transmission cooler and Derale Thermostat REDO of the REDO DONE! ;)
#1
6.0l transmission cooler and Derale Thermostat REDO of the REDO DONE! ;)
We’ve all done it, did a Mod and really didn’t like how it turned out but because of the work involved you didn’t want to do the entire thing over. Well, that’s where this thread is grounded. Doing it over and doing it right…the second time.
So when I did the 6.0L transmission cooler on my truck I added a Derale Fluid Thermostat to the plumbing. I removed 90% of the steel lines and replace them with standard rubber transmission line. I never liked using the worm clamps to secure all the hoses to the thermostat, and eventually I had light weeping near the Thermostat. So I finally replumbed the lines using Commercial grade Presslok hoses and fittings. On the 3/8’s side of the Thermostat I had Parker hydraulic machine press the fittings on the hoses. On the 6.0l Cooler side I used Presslok fittings, you simply press the Presslok hose on and it bites into the hose NO worm
Notice the differences between a hydraulic hose barb and a standard brass fitting from a box store.
I switched from a Magnefine filter to a Raybestos filter because two Magnefine filters started leaking and their solution was I should buy a $150 rebuidable filter. No, I just need yours not to leak!
So when I did the 6.0L transmission cooler on my truck I added a Derale Fluid Thermostat to the plumbing. I removed 90% of the steel lines and replace them with standard rubber transmission line. I never liked using the worm clamps to secure all the hoses to the thermostat, and eventually I had light weeping near the Thermostat. So I finally replumbed the lines using Commercial grade Presslok hoses and fittings. On the 3/8’s side of the Thermostat I had Parker hydraulic machine press the fittings on the hoses. On the 6.0l Cooler side I used Presslok fittings, you simply press the Presslok hose on and it bites into the hose NO worm
Notice the differences between a hydraulic hose barb and a standard brass fitting from a box store.
I switched from a Magnefine filter to a Raybestos filter because two Magnefine filters started leaking and their solution was I should buy a $150 rebuidable filter. No, I just need yours not to leak!
#3
1. Is that the 1/2" Derale?
2. How did you get a pic of it open at 180?
3. What are your temps when towing in the mountains?
A few years agoI swapped my 3/8" Derale for the 1/2" but noticed no change. I will be curious to see if the larger ID fittings you used make any difference in temps. For the most part I am happy with my temps, max has been about 205 but cruising at highway speeds I see 190 to 195 normally. I know that's not too hot but I would be happier to see 180 to 190.
edit: by carefully reading your post again I have answered #1 and #2
2. How did you get a pic of it open at 180?
3. What are your temps when towing in the mountains?
A few years agoI swapped my 3/8" Derale for the 1/2" but noticed no change. I will be curious to see if the larger ID fittings you used make any difference in temps. For the most part I am happy with my temps, max has been about 205 but cruising at highway speeds I see 190 to 195 normally. I know that's not too hot but I would be happier to see 180 to 190.
edit: by carefully reading your post again I have answered #1 and #2
#7
Another outstanding, high quality, in depth, clearly communicative write up this month by Colorado350, crowned with annotated and illustrative photographs to convey the points. Speaking of points... reps sent. (Whoops, already repped him). And speaking of good communication.... this is the type of quality content that keeps FTE members coming back and checking the forums for more. Colorado350 is setting the bar here for well written posts that help us all find more ways to keep our Ford trucks from being found on the side of the road dead.
It takes TIME to take well focused, close up photos during a project while you work. Having to stop each step of the way and set up a photo that is clear and not confusing generally triples the time it would otherwise take to get a project done. Then on top of that, having to load the photos into a paint program to annotate them so that each component discussed is labeled, adds three times more time to the entire endeavor. If you are reading this thread and have benefited by Colorado350's write up, be sure and show him some appreciation for his efforts. He freely gave of his time to help others, and we all know that time is not "free".
Thank you Colorado350! Even if I don't like that DeRale product you are writing about, I certainly do appreciate the time and effort you expended to explain how you installed yours.
It takes TIME to take well focused, close up photos during a project while you work. Having to stop each step of the way and set up a photo that is clear and not confusing generally triples the time it would otherwise take to get a project done. Then on top of that, having to load the photos into a paint program to annotate them so that each component discussed is labeled, adds three times more time to the entire endeavor. If you are reading this thread and have benefited by Colorado350's write up, be sure and show him some appreciation for his efforts. He freely gave of his time to help others, and we all know that time is not "free".
Thank you Colorado350! Even if I don't like that DeRale product you are writing about, I certainly do appreciate the time and effort you expended to explain how you installed yours.
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#8
Good job. Thanks for the write-up and highly detailed pictures!
A couple of notes on using the Presslok hose and nipples. I've had those in service on my bypass oil filter setup now for 9 years. I did replace the hoses about 3 years ago because they had gotten extremely hard (read as "reaching the stage of being brittle). Throughout the time I've used that hose and fitting type... nary a leak ever! My decision to replace the hardened arteries on my bypass system was simply a proactive choice as preventative maintenance
If you use these lines and fittings (Presslok), dip the ends of the hose into boiling water to soften them up a bit right before pushing the hose onto the barb nipple -- it makes for a much easier install! Otherwise, if you don't soften the hose first, you'll play ever-loving H3LL getting the end of the hose past the second barb on the nipple!
Also, they say these nipples cannot be re-used if you cut the hose off of them because it's virtually impossible to cut the hose off without nicking the barb, thereby causing a weep/leak point. HOWEVER, if you have either a high temp soldering gun or wood burning wand with a "knife edge" (not really sharp, just very thin)... then you can effectively burn the hose off without damaging the nipple at all and re-use them with confidence. I did that when I replaced the hoses three years ago, and still have absolutely no leak at all.
A couple of notes on using the Presslok hose and nipples. I've had those in service on my bypass oil filter setup now for 9 years. I did replace the hoses about 3 years ago because they had gotten extremely hard (read as "reaching the stage of being brittle). Throughout the time I've used that hose and fitting type... nary a leak ever! My decision to replace the hardened arteries on my bypass system was simply a proactive choice as preventative maintenance
If you use these lines and fittings (Presslok), dip the ends of the hose into boiling water to soften them up a bit right before pushing the hose onto the barb nipple -- it makes for a much easier install! Otherwise, if you don't soften the hose first, you'll play ever-loving H3LL getting the end of the hose past the second barb on the nipple!
Also, they say these nipples cannot be re-used if you cut the hose off of them because it's virtually impossible to cut the hose off without nicking the barb, thereby causing a weep/leak point. HOWEVER, if you have either a high temp soldering gun or wood burning wand with a "knife edge" (not really sharp, just very thin)... then you can effectively burn the hose off without damaging the nipple at all and re-use them with confidence. I did that when I replaced the hoses three years ago, and still have absolutely no leak at all.
#9
Colorado350,
Have you checked the temperature specs on Parker's 801 series Push Lok hose? The MAXIMUM Working Temperature carrying oil is 257F (125C). This maximum limit falls short of the reasonably expected peak temperatures of the transmission oil directly leaving the torque converter, before it even has a chance to reach the first cooler.
You stated that you removed 90% of your original metal lines, and replaced it with this 801 series Push Lok Plus hose, and from that statement I am assuming that the 801 series hose is at least partially being deployed to carry the hottest, uncooled transmission oil from the torque converter to the first cooler. While most never see what the temperature of the uncooled exiting fluid is, because the sending units of most TFT gauges read the sump temperature, the output temperature of the fluid immediately after it has worked the hardest can reach 295F as it leaves a hard working torque converter. That is beyond the working thermal capacity of the 801 series hose.
Parker does make a "High Temperature" version of the same Push Lok Plus type hose, which Parker describes as the 836 series, and which has a maximum working temperature in oil of 302F (150C). I prefer the factory metal lines, but if I was forced to use a Parker PushLOK Plus hose, I would strongly consider Parker's High Temperature 836 series hose, at least for the output line from the transmission to the first cooler.
801 Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/17552/en/pus...rpose-hose-801
836 "High Temperature" Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/pus...rpose-hose-836
When I upgraded my transmission cooler, I purchased new pre bent metal lines from Ford, and then cut up and double lap flared the curved portions of my original metal lines in order to mount the Magnifine filter inboard of the passenger front frame rail. When using the factory metal lines, I didn't worry about whether or not the materials used (including the elastomeric portions) met suitable specifications. I assumed that Ford got that part of it right.
Have you checked the temperature specs on Parker's 801 series Push Lok hose? The MAXIMUM Working Temperature carrying oil is 257F (125C). This maximum limit falls short of the reasonably expected peak temperatures of the transmission oil directly leaving the torque converter, before it even has a chance to reach the first cooler.
You stated that you removed 90% of your original metal lines, and replaced it with this 801 series Push Lok Plus hose, and from that statement I am assuming that the 801 series hose is at least partially being deployed to carry the hottest, uncooled transmission oil from the torque converter to the first cooler. While most never see what the temperature of the uncooled exiting fluid is, because the sending units of most TFT gauges read the sump temperature, the output temperature of the fluid immediately after it has worked the hardest can reach 295F as it leaves a hard working torque converter. That is beyond the working thermal capacity of the 801 series hose.
Parker does make a "High Temperature" version of the same Push Lok Plus type hose, which Parker describes as the 836 series, and which has a maximum working temperature in oil of 302F (150C). I prefer the factory metal lines, but if I was forced to use a Parker PushLOK Plus hose, I would strongly consider Parker's High Temperature 836 series hose, at least for the output line from the transmission to the first cooler.
801 Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/17552/en/pus...rpose-hose-801
836 "High Temperature" Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/pus...rpose-hose-836
When I upgraded my transmission cooler, I purchased new pre bent metal lines from Ford, and then cut up and double lap flared the curved portions of my original metal lines in order to mount the Magnifine filter inboard of the passenger front frame rail. When using the factory metal lines, I didn't worry about whether or not the materials used (including the elastomeric portions) met suitable specifications. I assumed that Ford got that part of it right.
#10
#11
Colorado350,
Have you checked the temperature specs on Parker's 801 series Push Lok hose? The MAXIMUM Working Temperature carrying oil is 257F (125C). This maximum limit falls short of the reasonably expected peak temperatures of the transmission oil directly leaving the torque converter, before it even has a chance to reach the first cooler.
You stated that you removed 90% of your original metal lines, and replaced it with this 801 series Push Lok Plus hose, and from that statement I am assuming that the 801 series hose is at least partially being deployed to carry the hottest, uncooled transmission oil from the torque converter to the first cooler. While most never see what the temperature of the uncooled exiting fluid is, because the sending units of most TFT gauges read the sump temperature, the output temperature of the fluid immediately after it has worked the hardest can reach 295F as it leaves a hard working torque converter. That is beyond the working thermal capacity of the 801 series hose.
Parker does make a "High Temperature" version of the same Push Lok Plus type hose, which Parker describes as the 836 series, and which has a maximum working temperature in oil of 302F (150C). I prefer the factory metal lines, but if I was forced to use a Parker PushLOK Plus hose, I would strongly consider Parker's High Temperature 836 series hose, at least for the output line from the transmission to the first cooler.
801 Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/17552/en/pus...rpose-hose-801
836 "High Temperature" Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/pus...rpose-hose-836
When I upgraded my transmission cooler, I purchased new pre bent metal lines from Ford, and then cut up and double lap flared the curved portions of my original metal lines in order to mount the Magnifine filter inboard of the passenger front frame rail. When using the factory metal lines, I didn't worry about whether or not the materials used (including the elastomeric portions) met suitable specifications. I assumed that Ford got that part of it right.
Have you checked the temperature specs on Parker's 801 series Push Lok hose? The MAXIMUM Working Temperature carrying oil is 257F (125C). This maximum limit falls short of the reasonably expected peak temperatures of the transmission oil directly leaving the torque converter, before it even has a chance to reach the first cooler.
You stated that you removed 90% of your original metal lines, and replaced it with this 801 series Push Lok Plus hose, and from that statement I am assuming that the 801 series hose is at least partially being deployed to carry the hottest, uncooled transmission oil from the torque converter to the first cooler. While most never see what the temperature of the uncooled exiting fluid is, because the sending units of most TFT gauges read the sump temperature, the output temperature of the fluid immediately after it has worked the hardest can reach 295F as it leaves a hard working torque converter. That is beyond the working thermal capacity of the 801 series hose.
Parker does make a "High Temperature" version of the same Push Lok Plus type hose, which Parker describes as the 836 series, and which has a maximum working temperature in oil of 302F (150C). I prefer the factory metal lines, but if I was forced to use a Parker PushLOK Plus hose, I would strongly consider Parker's High Temperature 836 series hose, at least for the output line from the transmission to the first cooler.
801 Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/17552/en/pus...rpose-hose-801
836 "High Temperature" Series Specification Link:
http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/pus...rpose-hose-836
When I upgraded my transmission cooler, I purchased new pre bent metal lines from Ford, and then cut up and double lap flared the curved portions of my original metal lines in order to mount the Magnifine filter inboard of the passenger front frame rail. When using the factory metal lines, I didn't worry about whether or not the materials used (including the elastomeric portions) met suitable specifications. I assumed that Ford got that part of it right.
So do you think this hose will be an issue considering the short distance the fluid has to travel? If I need to replace the hoses on the hot side I need to do it…
#12
You are being optimistic. I've seen the trans out to the cooler temps reach over 300F while all other temperatures in the trans were still under 250F. This was at max GCWR, about 95F ambient temperature, climbing an 8% grade. It's repeatable, not a fluke. I think I would see 310-315F, if I remember the data from 12 years ago!
ATF can still exceed this, but not by a lot. In my opinion this is pretty marginal in this application.
ATF can still exceed this, but not by a lot. In my opinion this is pretty marginal in this application.
#13
You are being optimistic. I've seen the trans out to the cooler temps reach over 300F while all other temperatures in the trans were still under 250F. This was at max GCWR, about 95F ambient temperature, climbing an 8% grade. It's repeatable, not a fluke. I think I would see 310-315F, if I remember the data from 12 years ago!
ATF can still exceed this, but not by a lot. In my opinion this is pretty marginal in this application.
ATF can still exceed this, but not by a lot. In my opinion this is pretty marginal in this application.
Mark, what temperature do you think the hose should be rated at for this application?
#14