Been using push loks for years. Started with the veggie system in 2012. Anyway, i would slice the ends, peel it back and remove hose..install new piece since old hose would be hard/dry/cracking. As for installing new hose, id hit the nipple of the pushlok with a tab of grease then push hose on over..bingo bango...
*****as for temps from 6.0 xooler, were only installing a foot or 2 from the exit side of raditor. ...but..its apples to carrots though, as for temps comparison, my coolants sensor is plumbed into the block. Operating temp, shes at 230*ish, towingbup hill will peak 250*ish. Reading at WP, 200*ish

 

I don't think anyone is trying to bust your b a l l s. Your write up style is awesome. Your topic title and concept is brilliantly appropriate for the audience of readers here: that being a "REDO", because by this age all of us have made modifications and repairs that we have thought about redoing. In another recent thread, more than one person quoted the adage: You can do it right. Or you can do it again.

The irony inherent in your thread is that by sharing your redo on FTE, the collective experience and peer review here may inspire you to redo your redo, but that is exactly your point. Better to redo your redo in the comfort of your own driveway surrounded by all of your own tools... rather than on the side of the road in another state subject to whatever parts, tools, or overpriced help you can scrounge in a pinch.

The average person doing the 6.0 cooler does not "remove 90% of the metal transmission lines". In fact, most folks report not even touching the factory transmission line that outputs the hottest fluid from the torque converter to the oil to water (OTW) cooler in the bottom of the radiator. All the 2001-2003 Super Duties had this OTW cooler installed at the factory. Most 2000 Super Duties made after March of 2000 also had this OTW cooler. And many of the 99-early 2000 Super Duty owners had the TSB performed which was issued at the time to retrofit a radiator with the OTW cooler, along with new transmission cooling lines that plumbed this cooler first in line.

Once the transmission fluid passes through the OTW cooler, the high temperatures we are worried about from the torque converter have been substantially knocked down. Water is a more efficient heat transfer medium than air, so the efficacy of an OTW transmission cooler to ameliorate the peak temps imposed by the tortuous turns inside a torque converter should not be under estimated. That was Ford's mistake back in 1996 or 97, whenever the decision was made to eliminate the OTW transmission cooler for the then upcoming Super Duty. It didn't take long for the consequences of that mistake to reveal themselves once these trucks were in the hands of consumers.

Something else to consider: If 200F degree radiator water can actually COOL transmission fluid, that speaks volumes for how hot transmission fluid can get.

Anyone with an early 99 through early 2000 who still doesn't have an OTW cooler might want to consider one. But for the majority of folks who do already have one, by the time the fluid leaves the OTW cooler and is headed toward the original oil to air (OTA) cooler, or the 6.0L style replacement OTA cooler, that fluid is already substantially cooler than the 300 degrees it may have once been prior to being cooled by the OTW cooler. So essentially, the typical 6.0L cooler installation isn't the issue with these hoses. The concern here in this case revolves around your report that you removed "90%" of your metal lines. That sounds like you removed a substantial part of the line between your transmission and your first cooler, the OTW one. And that is where you might want to consider a "redo".

Ford has transmission lines available as service parts, and it is highly probable that Ford's lines are rated to reliably withstand the temperature extremes Ford found in testing. Mark did done some of that testing, towing trailers with Super Duties. You read what he reported.

Your upgraded torque converter suggests that your torque converter should last longer before failure. Does it also mean that the fluid temperature rise will be any less as the fluid performs the "work" of fluid drive? Or does it mean that the equipment will not fail and fatigue as quickly from the heat. If the latter, then despite having a better built, longer lasting transmission that is less vulnerable to the discs getting burnt and the cover ballooning from heat, the fluid is still getting worked, and therefore is still getting hot. The only way to know exactly how hot is to plumb a sending unit on the output line of the transmission, before the first cooler. Since you already have Parker PushLOK lines installed, it is much easier for you to cut and splice in a sending unit block so that you can see how high your TC output temps get for your particular transmission and loads.

I initially typed reaching up to "300F+" in my earlier post, but then worried you might discount it as my seeing "windmills" on a hill somewhere, so I changed the number to something just under 300, to convey the concern without coming across as over the top. I also considered that average daily driving duties doesn't push the TFT to those extremes. But the road to reliability requires considering the possible extremes, and that was exactly what Mark did professionally. And with your own stated report of towing a 9K trailer up an 8% grade in 90F+ ambients demonstrates that you might find yourself in extreme territory on the occasion where you might have to back that trailer up a hill, when there is no cooling airflow to your big 6.0L cooler since you are going in reverse, and the temperatures are stacking by the minute.

The thermal load on your Parker lines might also stack from outside the line, as the line passes in near proximity to the turbo down pipe, which could present another potential reason to consider metal lines until you get to the front cover of the engine.

Another potential concern on your line routing, unrelated to temperature, is the location of your external filter for the transmission fluid. The filter appears to be cable tied outboard of your passenger frame rail. This puts the filter directly in line with the front passenger tire. In the event that tire throws a tread, the tread flap can whack the filter, separating it from the lines, and within the couple of minutes it might take to safely change lanes on a four lane freeway with the tire tread flailing around inside your wheel well until you can get stopped on the side of the road, you may have lost 2 gallons of transmission fluid, at a flow rate of one gallon per minute. Now a flat tire problem has compounded into a transmission problem.

I have had a tire failure that wrecked brake lines, the fender liner, the running board, the front air dam, and the sheetmetal fender itself. I was in lane # 2, and bang, blow out, thunk, thunk, thunk, thunk as the tire flap flipped around, wrecking havoc on every rotation. One cannot stop in the middle of the freeway, so I had to keep allowing the tire tread to flap around and do more damage until people whizzing by would let me change lanes to get to the side of the road. It is not fun to hear those thunks, knowing that with each hit, more damage is being done.

Ford mounts the external transmission filter for the 05-07 models in the same general area as you chose, but Ford positions the filter inboard the frame rail. I have the same filter as you have, and I mounted that filter inboard of the frame rail in the same area that Ford did, and protected it further with an anti bash plate. Something else to consider, should you decide to redo your redo.

 

 

The bashplate alone, opened my eyes to go make one as i speak. I got the SpringerPop idea, where the spin on is tucked into the back opening of passenger side bumper. Exposing 180* of it to the pass tire to wreck havoc on..thanks!

 

 

Trust me Pete, i didnt want to have the knotch under my belt as well. It got to the point, every 6mon i was replacing the hoses. Even with 300psi or r39..etc srill saw heat soak from engine. Maybe i just got lucky... I learned my lesson this time around(d2 delivery) and had braided lines made with AN fittings

 

Yes, you will. Neither a triple disc torque converter nor a shift kit will lower these temperatures. The high temperatures are created when the torque converter is unlocked. All three discs are just along for the ride then, and the shift kit isn't doing anything because the trans isn't shifting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The black pipe will be fine.

 

Not a major issue at all, but the thread sealant is "Gasoila", not "Gasolina". I only mention it so folks will not search for the wrong thread sealant (there is no "gasolina" thread sealant).