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Arizona DPF delete?

  #16  
Old 08-25-2018, 07:15 PM
urname7698
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Originally Posted by kd2dwj View Post


okay, Iím going to do the delete.

how can I register in pinal without buying property there? I heard they donít let you register to PO boxes anymore
Send me a PM if you need a northern AZ address. We live in Yavapai county and have a few other properties too

You also just update your mailing address to be your PHX address or a PO Box so you'll never even have your tags mailed there.
 
  #17  
Old 08-25-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by UGA33 View Post




If one were going to swap back annually, I would recommend running block off plates as it would keep the exhaust gas off the EGR valve and keep it from "coking" up. Block off plates keep the EGR cooler on the truck. Takes literally 5-10 mins to install them.

If you just run a delete pipe vs a full exhaust, the DPF can be put back on in under an hour easily. Once you do it a couple times, it can be done in 30 mins. Order the sensor plug kit to keep them clean and you can literally be back to stock in under an hour. That time includes the tune back to stock. If you only had to do it once a year, that's easy.
That back plate is notorious for snapping a bolt off. The heat cycles cause it to seize over time. Iíd think youíre playing Russian Roullette with 5 loaded cylinders and 1 empty whether or not youíll snap that bolt after that length of time. Iíd sure hate to try and remove a snapped bolt with the EGR in the way as well. It can be done, but I donít think itíll be near as easy done as said.
 
  #18  
Old 08-25-2018, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tricon View Post
You wont see a mileage increase btw, maybe .5-1mpg, max.

Itll sound better though...but thats a lot of money to spend for sound. EGR delete, DPF/DEF delete, tuner, etc....all just for sound.
i saw a lot more than 1 mpg difference. Stock I was getting 16-17 mpg at 73-75mph. I then installed 37x12.50 Toyos and dropped to 11-13 on the highway at the same speeds. Ran that way for approx 5-6k miles before deleting. Now I see 15-17 again depending on how heavy my foot is. I just ran a 6k mile roadtrip with a bunch of crap strapped to my truck, and I averaged 15.3 mpg for the whole trip with Hand calculations. Most of that trip I was running 80-85, with occasional stretches of 90.
 
  #19  
Old 08-25-2018, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TX03RUBI View Post


That back plate is notorious for snapping a bolt off. The heat cycles cause it to seize over time. Iíd think youíre playing Russian Roullette with 5 loaded cylinders and 1 empty whether or not youíll snap that bolt after that length of time. Iíd sure hate to try and remove a snapped bolt with the EGR in the way as well. It can be done, but I donít think itíll be near as easy done as said.
I yanked those damn things out and put Metric 12.9 (metric version of grade 8) in place. They hold perfect and I can pull em as needed without snapping the SOBs.
 
  #20  
Old 08-25-2018, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TX03RUBI View Post


That back plate is notorious for snapping a bolt off. The heat cycles cause it to seize over time. Iíd think youíre playing Russian Roullette with 5 loaded cylinders and 1 empty whether or not youíll snap that bolt after that length of time. Iíd sure hate to try and remove a snapped bolt with the EGR in the way as well. It can be done, but I donít think itíll be near as easy done as said.
Been there, done that, have the t-shirt. There are ways to do it without breaking them. Just did a 170k 6.7 last week without issue. If you know you might want to do it, pull em early and put something on em to keep them from freezing up when it comes time to yank em. My method of choice is penetrating oil a few days before hand (Kroil). Had good success with that. If they get tight, Map gas does the trick.
 
  #21  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by UGA33 View Post


Been there, done that, have the t-shirt. There are ways to do it without breaking them. Just did a 170k 6.7 last week without issue. If you know you might want to do it, pull em early and put something on em to keep them from freezing up when it comes time to yank em. My method of choice is penetrating oil a few days before hand (Kroil). Had good success with that. If they get tight, Map gas does the trick.
good to know. If Iím ever in that predicament again Iíll give it a try.
 
  #22  
Old 08-26-2018, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TX03RUBI View Post


good to know. If Iím ever in that predicament again Iíll give it a try.
Sucks having to tear the top end of the engine off to replace the manifold when you snap the bolt off then break the easy out off in it too. Sucks
 
  #23  
Old 08-26-2018, 01:59 PM
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50/50 Acetone and Mercron work well for these damn things too; mixing them is like getting Democrats and Republicans to agree, but once done it works. Over a couple days put the pen oil on and then run the engine. On the day you want to remove, remove while the engine is hot. The hotter you can stand the better as the CGI expands much more than the bolts do so they back out easier.
 


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