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New to me 05 6.0

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Old 08-10-2018, 05:14 PM
Motohead911
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New to me 05 6.0

I just picked up an 05 6.0, and have been doing some maintenance and prep on it. It only has 97000 miles, so I am not sure what else I need to do after this list of thing I am doing now.

1 Change oil and filter (along with the cap)
2 New front brakes
3 New tires.
4 New air and fuel filters
5 Plan on coolant flush and change to EC-1. (Deltas are currently 6 to 7 degrees via Torque Pro)
6 Tranny Flush and filter
7 Diff service front and rear
8 Change the transfer case fluid.

Well so far it runs nice and I like it a lot.

 
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:19 PM
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That’s a good list.

Check the rear brakes for freedom of movement of the slide pins.
Check rear backing plate for rust out, but CA shouldn’t be an issue unless boat launching.
Have each battery capacity checked.
Clean battery terminals.

CA won’t have a lot of corrosion at the grounding points, but when you have time it wouldn’t hurt.

You'll need to get a good method of monitoring the operating parameters of the motor and pulling codes. That will depend of what brand of cell phone you have.
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:23 PM
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Hopefully those "deltas" are after everything warms up. If so, that is good!

Install a fuel pressure sensor and gauge.

You also might want to get a degas bottle pressure gauge just to check up on head gaskets and EGR coolers.

I would be thinking about upgrading dummy plugs and standpipes when time and money allowed.

Same thing on the STC fitting (hpop) if it hasn't already been done.

If the EGR cooler is still in service, you might want to plan on updating that to an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel.

congrats on the purchase.
 
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:56 AM
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Don't forget the upgraded trans filter and pan and filter from the 6.4, and be sure to do a complete cold flush.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-a-6-0-a.html

 
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:37 AM
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​​​​1. Only spend the money on a new oil filter cap if it has the wrong one.
4. If it's an oem air filter, don't bother changing it unless your restriction indicator tells you to.
7. Look in the tech folder sticky for the new cold flush procedure.

Also might as well scan it for codes to see if anything that doesn't trip a CEL is lurking.

And post up some pics of the engine bay, that's usually helpful for us to pick out any incorrect parts or other obvious issues.
 
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Old 08-11-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys. View Post
CA wonít have a lot of corrosion at the grounding points, but when you have time it wouldnít hurt.
Depends on which part of California. In many parts of the High Sierra they use a lot of road salt. One of my rear brakes froze up and costed me a premature rear brake job.
 
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:07 PM
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Congrats on the new truck! I just bought my first diesel this spring. Itís a 04 f250 that i bought from my wifeís dad and he bought it new. It had never pulled anything and he was very picky with maintaining it. It had 93k miles on it the day I picked it up. I love the truck but itís needed quite a bit since Iíve had it. My list has been this so far.

New FICM with atlas 40.
One injector
3 different alternators.
Two new batteries.
Degas bottle
shocks
rotors and brakes
two new brake lines
fuel filters and oil change

yet to come:
tranny flush
coolant flush
differential flush

these 6.0 pull like a beast and work hard but they sure take a lot of upgrading to keep working.

 
  #8  
Old 08-11-2018, 02:17 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. So for an update so far, I did need to replace the oil cap. It had a Wix cap. The deltas are when it is warm, but I think I have a bad thermostat, the truck wants to run in the high 170's to low 180's, and it I go down hill it will drop to the 160's. I seem to have the odometer blacks out occasional. I look it up ON this site and it should just be a cold solder joint.

All the battery terminals seem to be clean and the batteries are only 18 months old, but I am not sure about my voltage. I noticed it drops to the low 11's high 10's while cranking. Is this ok? the FICM voltage stays at 48 +/- .5V. As for charging I saw that people get an upgraded alternator. I don't think I need to go that route, I have dual alternators. I will at some point in the future upgrade all my battery cables.

I am using Forscan to read my codes. Found I few, and I am working through them.
Right now I am just cleaning up some minor body work and paint correct.
 
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Old 08-11-2018, 02:45 PM
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Yep, bad T/S.

That’s normal for voltage at starter engagement, a touch low for this time of year. A weekend charge on the batteries may get the deep part of the plates rejuvenated.

As far as not needing an alternator upgrade because you have dual alternators, it depends on what is up top. If it’s the 110a, you’ll have the lower volts while the glow plugs are on as the PCM only controls the secondary alternator, and it waits for the glow plugs to turn off before any engagement. The dual alternator setup to to assist with high power additions as a body builder may use. A voltage reading 10 seconds after start gives a better indication of primary alternator sufficiency.
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:22 PM
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Well there sure is a learning curve. An update after the oil change, I used 15w-40 delo and the truck really doesn't like it. It shutters and misses and has no power upon starting this morning until I drove a couple of miles. Once it was warm everything smoothed out. When I test drove it, it started fine and run fine cold, even before I did the oil change it started and ran fine. It suck but I am thinking of draining the oil I just put in it and going with a 5w-40. Any recommendations, should just change the oil or maybe try some RevX?
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:03 PM
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I put 15w40 in mine and it worked fine.
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:51 PM
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You have stiction issues or your FICM needs worked on.
 


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