Your truck is not recommended for truck camper
#16
All,
The service manager reviewed the build sheet and confirmed that the three items/options listed in the camper package are installed on my truck, so I'm covered as far as the hardware goes. I think the default action is to provide the "not recommended" form unless certification is requested when the camper option is ordered.
Thanks to everyone for the quick, on-point replies!
Nick
The service manager reviewed the build sheet and confirmed that the three items/options listed in the camper package are installed on my truck, so I'm covered as far as the hardware goes. I think the default action is to provide the "not recommended" form unless certification is requested when the camper option is ordered.
Thanks to everyone for the quick, on-point replies!
Nick
#17
Jim,
By "close to maximum standard", you mean that my FGAWR is almost as good as it gets, right? I don't see anything in my options that would disallow the camper option (and 20" wheels can't even be selected).
The CG is marked on my camper; if I load it all the way into the bed, the CG is 12" forward of the rear axle. For a 4000 lb camper, that would put about 270 lbs on the front axle and 3730 on the rear. I was told by the Eagle Cap dealer to have the front rubber bumpers on the TC just touch the forward end of the bed. Do you do otherwise to adjust the centering?
Nick
By "close to maximum standard", you mean that my FGAWR is almost as good as it gets, right? I don't see anything in my options that would disallow the camper option (and 20" wheels can't even be selected).
The CG is marked on my camper; if I load it all the way into the bed, the CG is 12" forward of the rear axle. For a 4000 lb camper, that would put about 270 lbs on the front axle and 3730 on the rear. I was told by the Eagle Cap dealer to have the front rubber bumpers on the TC just touch the forward end of the bed. Do you do otherwise to adjust the centering?
Nick
It appears that the 5600 lbs axle (and front spring pair) rating is indeed almost as good as it gets. The next step up is 6K lbs., which may well have been included as the "+1" front spring upgrade if your truck had been ordered with the optional camper package. If this is a concern, I suspect the front springs could be changed as they have the same length and ID; only the wire diameter and constants are different.
I agree that there doesn't appear to be anything about your truck's configuration that would have locked-out the CP... it just seems that the dealer decided to not go for it.
I also agree with your calculations for the F&R weight distribution based on your truck's 176" wheelbase. If the camper's longitudinal CoG is based on the "as built" configuration, then it might shift a bit as you add water, stock the galley and fridge, load clothes, install accessories, etc.
Our camper's CoG is only 24" behind the front of its bumpers, and the front of the max weight loading zone is ~22" behind the bed's front wall. I have a pressure treated 4x6 (3-1/2 x 5-1/2) standing up on its narrow side between our camper's bumpers and the bed's front wall to move the camper back a bit to locate the longitudinal CoG more centrally in the optimal loading zone. I also now have a bit of useful storage space between the camper and the front of the bed.
Unless you shorten/remove the bumpers, there's no practical way to move the camper further forward in the bed.
I think that you've done a good job on your due diligence and that you'll be fine, especially if you can squeeze in a trip or two to the CAT scales.
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
#18
#19
Interestingly we don't get that piece of paper here in Canada. My truck has the camper package but no paper.
I know it wouldn't stop me from carrying a camper.
PS, my '17 DRW is a bit less 5300, probably because it's a platinum.
I know it wouldn't stop me from carrying a camper.
PS, my '17 DRW is a bit less 5300, probably because it's a platinum.
Last edited by _hedge_; 08-09-2018 at 04:05 PM. Reason: added payload
#20
Nick,
It appears that the 5600 lbs axle (and front spring pair) rating is indeed almost as good as it gets. The next step up is 6K lbs., which may well have been included as the "+1" front spring upgrade if your truck had been ordered with the optional camper package. If this is a concern, I suspect the front springs could be changed as they have the same length and ID; only the wire diameter and constants are different.
I agree that there doesn't appear to be anything about your truck's configuration that would have locked-out the CP... it just seems that the dealer decided to not go for it.
I also agree with your calculations for the F&R weight distribution based on your truck's 176" wheelbase. If the camper's longitudinal CoG is based on the "as built" configuration, then it might shift a bit as you add water, stock the galley and fridge, load clothes, install accessories, etc.
Our camper's CoG is only 24" behind the front of its bumpers, and the front of the max weight loading zone is ~22" behind the bed's front wall. I have a pressure treated 4x6 (3-1/2 x 5-1/2) standing up on its narrow side between our camper's bumpers and the bed's front wall to move the camper back a bit to locate the longitudinal CoG more centrally in the optimal loading zone. I also now have a bit of useful storage space between the camper and the front of the bed.
Unless you shorten/remove the bumpers, there's no practical way to move the camper further forward in the bed.
I think that you've done a good job on your due diligence and that you'll be fine, especially if you can squeeze in a trip or two to the CAT scales.
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
It appears that the 5600 lbs axle (and front spring pair) rating is indeed almost as good as it gets. The next step up is 6K lbs., which may well have been included as the "+1" front spring upgrade if your truck had been ordered with the optional camper package. If this is a concern, I suspect the front springs could be changed as they have the same length and ID; only the wire diameter and constants are different.
I agree that there doesn't appear to be anything about your truck's configuration that would have locked-out the CP... it just seems that the dealer decided to not go for it.
I also agree with your calculations for the F&R weight distribution based on your truck's 176" wheelbase. If the camper's longitudinal CoG is based on the "as built" configuration, then it might shift a bit as you add water, stock the galley and fridge, load clothes, install accessories, etc.
Our camper's CoG is only 24" behind the front of its bumpers, and the front of the max weight loading zone is ~22" behind the bed's front wall. I have a pressure treated 4x6 (3-1/2 x 5-1/2) standing up on its narrow side between our camper's bumpers and the bed's front wall to move the camper back a bit to locate the longitudinal CoG more centrally in the optimal loading zone. I also now have a bit of useful storage space between the camper and the front of the bed.
Unless you shorten/remove the bumpers, there's no practical way to move the camper further forward in the bed.
I think that you've done a good job on your due diligence and that you'll be fine, especially if you can squeeze in a trip or two to the CAT scales.
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
The camper option refers only to an upgraded spring - no mention of the axle - and the dealer says my spring is at maximum capacity. Do you have a reference (link, P/N, etc., for the 6K lbs)?
The Pickup/Camper combination selector document states the following: "Cargo Weight Rating shown in chart is maximum allowable, assuming weight of a base vehicle with required camper option content and a 150-lb. passenger at each available seating position." If their grammar is correct, this means that my stated max. capacity does not need to be reduced based on the occupant weight, since they've already factored in a typical passenger load. Is that your understanding? It's consistent with the difference from the payload on the SD brochure.
BTW, your truck/camper combo is pretty neat - is that the tail gate still on the truck?
Nick
#21
Nick,
Here's a link to the 2018 Super Duty truck specs.
Your truck's Dana 60 front axle capacity spec is 6K lbs. (see pages 35 and 39). The GAWR is based on the lowest rated components (i.e., axle, springs, wheels, tires) in the assembly, which in your case appears to be the 5600 lbs. springs.
The maximum available spring spec for your truck appears to be 6000 lbs. (page 45) with a maximum front GAWR of 5990 lbs. (page 24).
The maximum camper weight spec does indeed include an allowance of 150 lbs. per person for the weight of driver and passengers. The payload spec on the door frame does not, so yes, that explains the discrepancy between the camper weight specs and the payload specs.
Yes, that's the tailgate open on our old truck. We used it as a "landing" to help get in- and out of the camper. Here's another picture, this one from Bandelier National Monument in northern NM:
HTH,
Jim / crewzer
Here's a link to the 2018 Super Duty truck specs.
Your truck's Dana 60 front axle capacity spec is 6K lbs. (see pages 35 and 39). The GAWR is based on the lowest rated components (i.e., axle, springs, wheels, tires) in the assembly, which in your case appears to be the 5600 lbs. springs.
The maximum available spring spec for your truck appears to be 6000 lbs. (page 45) with a maximum front GAWR of 5990 lbs. (page 24).
The maximum camper weight spec does indeed include an allowance of 150 lbs. per person for the weight of driver and passengers. The payload spec on the door frame does not, so yes, that explains the discrepancy between the camper weight specs and the payload specs.
Yes, that's the tailgate open on our old truck. We used it as a "landing" to help get in- and out of the camper. Here's another picture, this one from Bandelier National Monument in northern NM:
HTH,
Jim / crewzer
#22
Jim,
Thanks for referencing that document; it's a great resource. The service manager looked up my build and said I had the max springs (not that he couldn't be mistaken), but the door pillar sticker also references GAWR with specific tires and wheels. The camper option doesn't mention a tire/wheel upgrade, so I think it's more likely that I have the 5600 lb springs as you suggest. I tried to mic them, but they came up 0.71-ish. That doesn't make sense - it corresponds to about a 4600-4800 lb spring. However, the linked document states that the spring dimensions are reference only, so wire diameter isn't much help. There's a UPC-coded sticker that might give me more info when it gets a bit lighter.
I like your off-camper solar. I haven't added panels yet, but I don't like the idea of more holes in the roof. On the other hand, I'd be concerned about theft. How do you deal with that?
Nick
Thanks for referencing that document; it's a great resource. The service manager looked up my build and said I had the max springs (not that he couldn't be mistaken), but the door pillar sticker also references GAWR with specific tires and wheels. The camper option doesn't mention a tire/wheel upgrade, so I think it's more likely that I have the 5600 lb springs as you suggest. I tried to mic them, but they came up 0.71-ish. That doesn't make sense - it corresponds to about a 4600-4800 lb spring. However, the linked document states that the spring dimensions are reference only, so wire diameter isn't much help. There's a UPC-coded sticker that might give me more info when it gets a bit lighter.
I like your off-camper solar. I haven't added panels yet, but I don't like the idea of more holes in the roof. On the other hand, I'd be concerned about theft. How do you deal with that?
Nick
#23
Nick,
Thanks for asking about the solar panel. It's an old Sharp 123 W model left over from my solar days. We use it to charge a couple of Group 24 AGM batteries via a Morningstar MPPT charge controller. I typically plug the battery cord from the controller into the 7-way connector using a "Y" adapter.
The truck camper and the solar panel give us considerable freedom in choosing camp sites, as we don't need a long parking spot or electrical hookups. The fridge is a three-way, and we're willing to walk (within reason...) for water. However, hookups are indeed nice when available.
The current off-camper panel configuration has its pros and cons. The ability to aim and move it is certainly a major pro; see the pics below from Bandelier and Mesa Verde National Park in CO. Setup, take done, and storage in the camper can be a pain. I use a long security cable and lock to chain the panel and table to "something" when we're not on-site.
I'm looking to use extra-long Yakima bars to mount the panel on the cargo rail on top of the camper, so there shouldn't be any additional mechanical mounting holes. I believe I have enough free roof space so as to not interfere with the various existing vents (four!) and possibly a future rooftop AC unit. I may have to install an electrical connector on the camper's right rear wall and then install the charge controller and a little fuse box inside the external storage compartment. It may also be possible to route the panel wiring into the camper via the fridge's rooftop vent, which could mean a zero-new-hole installation.
We'll see... The "to-do" list never ends...
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
Bandelier; note the panel's aim is different than in previous pic
Mesa Verde
Thanks for asking about the solar panel. It's an old Sharp 123 W model left over from my solar days. We use it to charge a couple of Group 24 AGM batteries via a Morningstar MPPT charge controller. I typically plug the battery cord from the controller into the 7-way connector using a "Y" adapter.
The truck camper and the solar panel give us considerable freedom in choosing camp sites, as we don't need a long parking spot or electrical hookups. The fridge is a three-way, and we're willing to walk (within reason...) for water. However, hookups are indeed nice when available.
The current off-camper panel configuration has its pros and cons. The ability to aim and move it is certainly a major pro; see the pics below from Bandelier and Mesa Verde National Park in CO. Setup, take done, and storage in the camper can be a pain. I use a long security cable and lock to chain the panel and table to "something" when we're not on-site.
I'm looking to use extra-long Yakima bars to mount the panel on the cargo rail on top of the camper, so there shouldn't be any additional mechanical mounting holes. I believe I have enough free roof space so as to not interfere with the various existing vents (four!) and possibly a future rooftop AC unit. I may have to install an electrical connector on the camper's right rear wall and then install the charge controller and a little fuse box inside the external storage compartment. It may also be possible to route the panel wiring into the camper via the fridge's rooftop vent, which could mean a zero-new-hole installation.
We'll see... The "to-do" list never ends...
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
Bandelier; note the panel's aim is different than in previous pic
Mesa Verde
#24
Jim,
Thanks for referencing that document; it's a great resource. The service manager looked up my build and said I had the max springs (not that he couldn't be mistaken), but the door pillar sticker also references GAWR with specific tires and wheels. The camper option doesn't mention a tire/wheel upgrade, so I think it's more likely that I have the 5600 lb springs as you suggest. I tried to mic them, but they came up 0.71-ish. That doesn't make sense - it corresponds to about a 4600-4800 lb spring. However, the linked document states that the spring dimensions are reference only, so wire diameter isn't much help. There's a UPC-coded sticker that might give me more info when it gets a bit lighter.
I like your off-camper solar. I haven't added panels yet, but I don't like the idea of more holes in the roof. On the other hand, I'd be concerned about theft. How do you deal with that?
Nick
Thanks for referencing that document; it's a great resource. The service manager looked up my build and said I had the max springs (not that he couldn't be mistaken), but the door pillar sticker also references GAWR with specific tires and wheels. The camper option doesn't mention a tire/wheel upgrade, so I think it's more likely that I have the 5600 lb springs as you suggest. I tried to mic them, but they came up 0.71-ish. That doesn't make sense - it corresponds to about a 4600-4800 lb spring. However, the linked document states that the spring dimensions are reference only, so wire diameter isn't much help. There's a UPC-coded sticker that might give me more info when it gets a bit lighter.
I like your off-camper solar. I haven't added panels yet, but I don't like the idea of more holes in the roof. On the other hand, I'd be concerned about theft. How do you deal with that?
Nick
SDcrewzer - 1, Dealership - 0
#25
#26
You're absolutely right, and I meant no disrespect to all of those who were generous enough to respond. The help was invaluable, and I think the dealer is now better informed, too.
Nick
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