Dead on roadside again :-( please help diagnose
#1
Dead on roadside again :-( please help diagnose
Wife was driving, I wasn't there, so have to go by her word of "it just died and won't restart".
It did this several months ago, roughly May, (she was driving again) but did start the next morning.
It showed no codes then so I just replaced the CPS for good measure and the icp sensor since it had oil in plug.
Now here we are again and I'm not sure what's next?
New cups and rebuilt injectors around January of this year, absolutely nothing but oil changes and coolant change for 100k prior.
Sitting at around 320k now... Thoughts???
It did this several months ago, roughly May, (she was driving again) but did start the next morning.
It showed no codes then so I just replaced the CPS for good measure and the icp sensor since it had oil in plug.
Now here we are again and I'm not sure what's next?
New cups and rebuilt injectors around January of this year, absolutely nothing but oil changes and coolant change for 100k prior.
Sitting at around 320k now... Thoughts???
#2
#5
I’m no mechanic, and this may have nothing to do with your issue,but since it sppears both times it started fine after cooling down, I’ll throw it out there.....
I have a 2006 F350 5.4l that’s mainly just a plow truck. Maybe five years ago, it seemed to have more than normal electrical draw when using the plow. One time when plowing the truck simply died on me. Would not start (don’t think it even cranked; completely dead). Came back four or five hours later and started right up.
Long story short is that the plow battery cable was bad and over heating (which is why it worked fine after cooling down). New cable and everything works fine.
Maybe something similar with yours - not a plow cable, of course, but maybe bad battery cables?
I have a 2006 F350 5.4l that’s mainly just a plow truck. Maybe five years ago, it seemed to have more than normal electrical draw when using the plow. One time when plowing the truck simply died on me. Would not start (don’t think it even cranked; completely dead). Came back four or five hours later and started right up.
Long story short is that the plow battery cable was bad and over heating (which is why it worked fine after cooling down). New cable and everything works fine.
Maybe something similar with yours - not a plow cable, of course, but maybe bad battery cables?
#6
IPR will fail and kill engine when it is going bad. Once the IPR has cooled, the engine will run fine. Get a can of compressed air, and if the truck dies again, turn the can of air upside down and spray the coil of the IPR to cool it off and try to restart the engine. If it fires right up, replace the IPR.
Also as Papadave said, check to make sure the tin nut is on the end of the IPR securely.
Also as Papadave said, check to make sure the tin nut is on the end of the IPR securely.
#7
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#9
Was clear/dry both times, extremely hot and humid today probably not so much back in May but don't recall.
No codes at all, nothing. No check engine light. Everything else working...
When she was trying to re start I asked her to watch RPM gauge for movement but there was none.
Heard that was a sign of bad CPS but the two times I started it since there is no movement until a second after it is already running...
Batteries and connections at batteries are new as of January.
Tin nut is on
Thinking I will order new IPR just to eliminate it, that doesn't look like a fun job.
Any more thoughts I'm all ears
Appreciate the help!
No codes at all, nothing. No check engine light. Everything else working...
When she was trying to re start I asked her to watch RPM gauge for movement but there was none.
Heard that was a sign of bad CPS but the two times I started it since there is no movement until a second after it is already running...
Batteries and connections at batteries are new as of January.
Tin nut is on
Thinking I will order new IPR just to eliminate it, that doesn't look like a fun job.
Any more thoughts I'm all ears
Appreciate the help!
#11
Drain the HPOP reservoir before pulling the IPR otherwise the oil will drain into the valley. A pump off any properly sized hand soap dispenser will work. I actually bought a rubber plug to fill the IPR hole when swapping, but in hindsight that was silly. Refill reservoir before attempting to start.
If the new IPR fixes it, I'd be interested in the old bad one. PM me. Always wanted to do some failure analysis on a bad one.
If the new IPR fixes it, I'd be interested in the old bad one. PM me. Always wanted to do some failure analysis on a bad one.
#12
#13
That only works for 2001 and older. Starting with the 2002 upgraded electrical system and hybrid instrument cluster the tach does not register anything till the engine has actually started.