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Can we talk about weight loss??

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Can we talk about weight loss??

  #1  
Old 08-05-2018, 05:04 PM
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Can we talk about weight loss??

Hey gang. '14 F250 Lariat, new to the 6.7s. What's the norm? Do we lose underneath weight, with proper tuning!? Fine to run this way until the next stage of losing weight under the hood? Or.. Do we need a total weight loss all at once? 😁Trying to get the full picture of options and plan of attack.
P. S. I know someone understands this rediculous post.
 
  #2  
Old 08-05-2018, 06:24 PM
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You can talk out in the open about deleting on FTE. Yes, you can just do the DPF and tuning to start and leave the EGR in place but in time, it will get sooted up and get stuck in closed. So, it's best to get the plates and get it out of there sooner rather than later so it's still functional when it's time to sell or trade and you want it back in.
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:43 PM
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I just started thinking about a 6.7 today, not real serious yet but if my accountant says it's a good move (IRS Section 179 deduction) I just may do it. Unfortunately we have state emissions here so I'll have to keep everything.
I guess sneaking around here the 6.7 forum means I have taken the first step, I feel kinda guilty
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:59 PM
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You don't have to fully remove the egr cooler in order to prevent it from sooting off either. If there is ever a chance that it would need to go back stock I would just install blocker plates and leave the cooler in place. Just be very careful removing the egr to exhaust manifold bolts, soak them down with a good penetrant like kroil for weeks when the truck is cooling down to allow it to creep into the threads. You don't want to break those bolts off and create a much bigger job, many people have, mine came out like butter but I had used kroil for two weeks prior every time I remembered.
 
  #5  
Old 08-05-2018, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat View Post
You can talk out in the open about deleting on FTE. Yes, you can just do the DPF and tuning to start and leave the EGR in place but in time, it will get sooted up and get stuck in closed. So, it's best to get the plates and get it out of there sooner rather than later so it's still functional when it's time to sell or trade and you want it back in.
Thanks. I wasn't sure about having to be stealthy lol. I haven't had the 14 Lariat very long and still have some warranty remaining. I'm just trying to research and get a handle on things. I'm thinking of weight loss 😁 more from a reliability standpoint. Not looking to build a race truck. But a little more crispness and towing power would be welcomed. I don't want smoky tunes or too hot to run tunes. I'm thinking of a delete pipe and leaving the stock end pipe and tip. Been doing lots of reading but a lot of what I'm reading seems to be dated and like fresh opinions.
 
  #6  
Old 08-05-2018, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cappa View Post
You don't have to fully remove the egr cooler in order to prevent it from sooting off either. If there is ever a chance that it would need to go back stock I would just install blocker plates and leave the cooler in place. Just be very careful removing the egr to exhaust manifold bolts, soak them down with a good penetrant like kroil liquid wrench for weeks when the truck is cooling down to allow it to creep into the threads. You don't want to break those bolts off and create a much bigger job, many people have, mine came out like butter but I had used kroil for two weeks prior every time I remembered.
Fixed that error for you.

 
  #7  
Old 08-05-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dirthawg View Post
FIXED that for you...

AEROKROIL is tha shiznit.

Liquid Wrench is second best.


Done amazing things with both.
 
  #8  
Old 08-06-2018, 05:50 AM
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Following along to get information
 
  #9  
Old 08-07-2018, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by cappa View Post
You don't have to fully remove the egr cooler in order to prevent it from sooting off either. If there is ever a chance that it would need to go back stock I would just install blocker plates and leave the cooler in place. Just be very careful removing the egr to exhaust manifold bolts, soak them down with a good penetrant like kroil for weeks when the truck is cooling down to allow it to creep into the threads. You don't want to break those bolts off and create a much bigger job, many people have, mine came out like butter but I had used kroil for two weeks prior every time I remembered.
This write up I did on replacing the EGR cooler core may assist with anything relating to working with the EGR circuit. Note the 4 rules early in the post after the first 7 pictures (picture 8 is included in the rules section).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ers-guide.html

Originally Posted by dirthawg View Post
Originally Posted by Sader View Post
FIXED that for you...

AEROKROIL is tha shiznit.

Liquid Wrench is second best.


Done amazing things with both.
I have not seen that video before. Thanks for posting it. I watched the whole thing.

Please note that, when referencing this video, they did a 3 hour test. The references where people are saying penetrating oil works the best are usually between a week and two weeks. I do not think that this test - at 3 hours soak time - is accurate. Of course heat is going to work better than anything - expanding metal by temperature happens pretty fast, as opposed to the time it may take for the penetrating oils to really work their magic.

To get more accurate results we would need a test over the course of at least a week with daily applications, as opposed to hourly applications.

I agree with the heat method, though. If you read through my post on the EGR core replacement - even after north of a week's soak time with PB Blaster I had a manifold bolt stick. I tried a propane flame on the manifold with no luck. I have since bought an oxy/acetylene outfit just for this purpose, though I can multi-purpose it for welding/cutting also for the time being.
 
  #10  
Old 08-07-2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250 View Post
Thanks. I wasn't sure about having to be stealthy lol. I haven't had the 14 Lariat very long and still have some warranty remaining. I'm just trying to research and get a handle on things. I'm thinking of weight loss 😁 more from a reliability standpoint. Not looking to build a race truck. But a little more crispness and towing power would be welcomed. I don't want smoky tunes or too hot to run tunes. I'm thinking of a delete pipe and leaving the stock end pipe and tip. Been doing lots of reading but a lot of what I'm reading seems to be dated and like fresh opinions.
This is what I have done, left the stock tip in place for the incognito look. Course soon as you start it, it is clearly different sound from stock. Some like it some don't. I added a big walker muffler and FTE resonator inline and it is almost as quiet as the stock system was.
 
  #11  
Old 08-08-2018, 02:02 PM
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Lots of us have deleted, ask any questions you have. It can be a daunting procedure. I did the EGR block off plates, race pipe with Donaldson muffler and stock tip. It's almost as quiet as stock. I wanted my interior to look as stock as possible so I did the EZ-lynk tuner and no extra monitors or gauge pods.
 
  #12  
Old 08-10-2018, 06:33 PM
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My truck lost weight this summer just before vacation after battling several issues for almost two years, which Ford just couldn't get a handle on. I couldn't afford to trade it and had to have a reliable truck for the summer trips, so that was really my only option. Haven't looked back.
 
  #13  
Old 08-10-2018, 06:49 PM
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I'm like Deuce...got a race pipe with a Donaldson muffler and left the factory tips. I have the block off plates from no limit. As suggested before, soak all the egr bolts ahead of time. I did mine for 4 days... every morning before I left and every afternoon when I got home. When I finally decided I had the guts to attempt to loosen them, I drove the truck 20 minutes beforehand to heat everything up. They all broke loose fairly easily except one which needed some extra force and an extra shot of PB blaster.
 
  #14  
Old 08-11-2018, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom View Post
They all broke loose fairly easily except one which needed some extra force and an extra shot of PB blaster.
Which one hung you up, just curious?
 
  #15  
Old 08-12-2018, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by KC8QVO
Which one hung you up, just curious?
The bolt on the lower pipe closest to the firewall on the exhaust manifold
 

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