Please help f150 302 efi running rough/hard start/no start when hot - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Go Back  Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Reload this Page >

Please help f150 302 efi running rough/hard start/no start when hot

Notices
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Please help f150 302 efi running rough/hard start/no start when hot

Reply

 
 
 
  #1  
Old 08-04-2018, 03:55 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
Please help f150 302 efi running rough/hard start/no start when hot

I know i posted alot on here and i probably annoying yall on but im thinking i about maybe swapping it to carb because i feel like ill never fix the motor with the efi crap.

How hard is it to swap a efi motor to carb and can i use the old fuel system like fuel pumps?

i all ready threw 2000 in it trying to fix its issue
and it still runs rough and will not start when it hot.

parts i replaced
fuel pumps
fuel regulator
fuel filter
fuel injectors
coil
tfi/igintion module
spark plugs
Cap and rotor
ect
air sensor
Ecm
Egr
tps
iac
throttle body.

and after all that i cant figure out why it revs up slow and wont start up when it hot, and after awhile of holding the gas it start running like ****.

what is yall advice swap it to carb or what should i do, any advice is appreciated

Edit: change name since im this far in fuel injection.
change pip coil same issue expect its not running rough with the scanner on.

also i have codes.
18.
53.
 

Last edited by Billy Anderson; 08-06-2018 at 12:38 PM. Reason: Going to try to fix the fuel injection again.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-04-2018, 03:59 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
I didnt realize that i could post videos but if it helps ill try to get a video of it if it will help yall determine what it is.
 
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-04-2018, 04:09 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New Market, VA
Posts: 41,681
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
You already have a thread on here trying to fix the efi. In my opinion it doesn't look hopeful in getting the efi fixed yourself. Being you live in Arkansas, you do not have vehicle inspections do you? If you do, that might throw a monkey wrench in your conversion plans.

Do you have the money to buy a new intake and small 4 barrel carb? If so, that and a aftermarket HEI distributor swap should get it going. Your fuel system is going to take more work.

Do you have dual fuel tanks? If you want to keep that system, you are going to have to do some wiring to power the fuel pump relay when the key is in run, and you will also have to buy a fuel regulator that has a return port, and hook the supply and return lines and adjust the regulator for 5lbs of pressure. Then you can run that into the carb to supply it fuel.
 
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-04-2018, 05:51 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
Took me awhile to convert but i hopefully this helps i dont know if it uploaded or not
 
Attached Files
File Type: avi
20180804_160107_s01.avi (4.80 MB, 15 views)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-04-2018, 06:36 PM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is online now
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 7,623
FuzzFace2 has a great reputation on FTE.FuzzFace2 has a great reputation on FTE.FuzzFace2 has a great reputation on FTE.FuzzFace2 has a great reputation on FTE.FuzzFace2 has a great reputation on FTE.
It sounds like it is a 300 six with no muffler.
Are you sure all the injectors are working?
I know you posted they are new but they could be bad or not getting a signal to open from bad wires or plug at the injector.
Dave ----
 
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-04-2018, 07:30 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
I forgot to say its open header on one side lol
I havent check the wires yet but im trying them next.
it use to run real good with the scanner on it and now it running like ****.
I havent check my plugs yet im pretty sure there foul by now with all the backfiring lol.


i also thought of what if the crank sensor or the pick up coil was bad would that cause it to run like that?
because even after i clean the plugs it will still backfire and rev up really slow like the throttle isnt responding so i wonder if that would be a issue to lookin to?
 
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-04-2018, 09:20 PM
matthewq4b
matthewq4b is online now
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: St Albert, Alberta
Posts: 2,528
matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by Billy Anderson View Post
I forgot to say its open header on one side lol
I havent check the wires yet but im trying them next.
it use to run real good with the scanner on it and now it running like ****.
I havent check my plugs yet im pretty sure there foul by now with all the backfiring lol.


i also thought of what if the crank sensor or the pick up coil was bad would that cause it to run like that?
because even after i clean the plugs it will still backfire and rev up really slow like the throttle isnt responding so i wonder if that would be a issue to lookin to?

That sounds like a timing issue and the EEC is searching for a stable timing setting. Pull the spout connector and see what happens.
 
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-05-2018, 03:18 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
I pull the spout out yesterday and it died instantly and i went today and tested it and i got a code 18 from testing it today with the plug back in.
 
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-05-2018, 05:42 PM
matthewq4b
matthewq4b is online now
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: St Albert, Alberta
Posts: 2,528
matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by Billy Anderson View Post
I pull the spout out yesterday and it died instantly and i went today and tested it and i got a code 18 from testing it today with the plug back in.
Your issue is ignition timing related.

The base Ignition timing is out (retarded). It needs to be advanced. Currently it so retarded the engine will not run with the spout disconnected. I would advance the dist a few degrees start it, then pull the spout . keep doing this until the engine runs on it's own, then set the base timing with the spout disconnected.

Let us know if you have tried this. and the results.

There are couple other things that could be messing this up. The balancer has slipped. The timing chain has jumped or you have a bad ignition module/ pick up.

But we will check this if you can get the engine to run with the spout disconnected and setting the base timing with the spout disconnected does not fix it.
You are on the home stretch now.
 
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-05-2018, 06:58 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
I went ahead and change the pip coil out and i started up without the spout connector and it ran on its own not the best but i couldnt rev it, but when i put the connector back in.


It kept starting and dying and i hook the scanner back up and it ran after 30 sec of running like **** and after it cleared and smooth out i unplug the scanner and it died instantly and i restarted it without the scanner and it was missing to where i have to rev it to keep it alive and it only went to 1000 rpms.

i didnt get to mess with the timing yet since i need it to cool down but it heated up really fast.

so does this mean the timing off?
 
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-05-2018, 07:08 PM
matthewq4b
matthewq4b is online now
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: St Albert, Alberta
Posts: 2,528
matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by Billy Anderson View Post
I went ahead and change the pip coil out and i started up without the spout connector and it ran on its own not the best but i couldnt rev it, but when i put the connector back in.


It kept starting and dying and i hook the scanner back up and it ran after 30 sec of running like **** and after it cleared and smooth out i unplug the scanner and it died instantly and i restarted it without the scanner and it was missing to where i have to rev it to keep it alive and it only went to 1000 rpms.

i didnt get to mess with the timing yet since i need it to cool down but it heated up really fast.

so does this mean the timing off?
I am thinking it is. Retarded timing will overheat a motor. Back in the day, and I mean way back when ignition timing was manually controlled by the driver, if you failed to advance the timing once you got under way not only would the vehicle run like crap, be down on power, but you would quickly overheat the motor.

At this point I'm pretty positive the ignition timing out.

The question is why is it out. Did it get set to the wrong point by someone. Was this done cause they did not know to pull the spout when setting it. Was it set wrong cause the balancer has slipped. Or has the timing chain slipped jumped thus changing the ignition timing.

If it was the last 2 swapping to a carb would have not fixed it.
 
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-05-2018, 07:28 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
I know that before i got it, it use to be at a shop and the guy who own it before me said that he was "driving" it and it randomly quit.

so it sat at the shop i got it off of and the guy who ran the shop try to get it to run and he said my best bet is to swap to carb and said the computer was bad.

well long story short i replaced the ecm and that wasnt it and he recently told me it backfire once and caught part of the throttle body on fire but he said the was not damage to the wires.

so im thinkin he **** with the timing before me and that's why it had this backfire problem.

but today after i replace the pip coil it hasn't backfire it just missing right now.
it stills throws code 18 though

also forgot to ask but i notice when i crank the motor cold. The temp start to rise on it before it starts is that normal?
 
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-05-2018, 07:33 PM
matthewq4b
matthewq4b is online now
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: St Albert, Alberta
Posts: 2,528
matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.matthewq4b has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by Billy Anderson View Post
I know that before i got it, it use to be at a shop and the guy who own it before me said that he was "driving" it and it randomly quit.

so it sat at the shop i got it off of and the guy who ran the shop try to get it to run and he said my best bet is to swap to carb and said the computer was bad.

well long story short i replaced the ecm and that wasnt it and he recently told me it backfire once and caught part of the throttle body on fire but he said the was not damage to the wires.

so im thinkin he **** with the timing before me and that's why it had this backfire problem.

but today after i replace the pip coil it hasn't backfire it just missing right now.
it stills throws code 18 though

also forgot to ask but i notice when i crank the motor cold. The temp start to rise on it before it starts is that normal?
18 is loss of the spout (spark out ) signal. Pull the spout and plug it back in a couple times. May just be a bad connection on the connector.
 
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-05-2018, 09:31 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
I pull the spout connector and cleaned it it still giving a 18 out.. i have also retested it and im getting 53 which is a high voltage to the tps. I also stand corrected because it is backfiring again
 
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-06-2018, 03:15 PM
Billy Anderson
Billy Anderson is online now
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 55
Billy Anderson is starting off with a positive reputation.
Things ive done today
I have advanced the timing truck craps out and dies.
I reseted the computer today to see if what codes i get when it retested.

i got.
12.
21.
33.
41.

i have notice after i crank the truck and i hit my signal switch it doesnt blink. I dont think that could be related to my problem.
 
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.