I'd recommend upgrading to GT-40 heads (GT-40P's will make a bit more power, but you will have to shop around and possible experiment with different headers/plugwires due to plug angle. Don't know 1st hand, just what I've heard here). I think if you already plan to put in all the machining to rebuild the heads, why not spend a couple hundred on a better core? I was planning my 302 build similar to yours, and thought if I spending all this money, why not a couple hundred more for better heads altogether? I picked up a set of cores for $200 off craigs list, and am very happy with the performance as part of an overall engine build up.

Thanks,
-Glaser67

 

I would agree, a set of Gt40s or P heads would be ideal, (and also, i do have two sets of P heads) I already have a set of E7 heads, freshly machined, with new valves, new springs, and port work done, for the price of free. they came with a different Windsor i bought from my machinist ( some guy dropped it off, and never came to pay for it), and I ended up going with AFR heads for that engine, so these E7's have been hanging out in my closet for a year or so.

but i would totally agree, if i had to start from scratch, I would find some P heads.

 

Did the machinist open up the exhaust ports and remove the Thermactor bumps ? Those are the bottlenecks on most SBF heads.

 

I was told there was "exhaust side work done". the heads were built for a dirt track car that required a stock casting iron head, so I'm sure they were ported pretty well.

I'll dig em out in the next few weeks.

 

You're in good hands there then. The dirt track guys know how to squeeze every ounce of power out of stock heads. They probably flow more than stock GT40 heads. I wouldn't doubt they'd equal some bottom tier aftermarket heads

 

Flattop pistons with 4 valve eyebrows(cast stock like replacements) will raise CR to a touch over 9:1, the valve eyebrows in these are generous and add up to something of a dish volume and I suspect the curved shapes may create some swirl action.. all of which reduces detonation, and I also suggest you take a dremmel and sanding roll to the chambers on the cylinder heads and remove the sharp edge where it meets the deck surface and any casting **** to minimize sensitivity to detonation, you don't have to smooth out the whole chamber just remove any obvious points and sharp edges.

 

what level of pistons do you guys suggest? i know forged is the best option, but is it overkill for the application?

 

Cast or hypereutectics will work fine. You don't need forged pistons here.

 

+1.. no need for forged pistons in a NA engine.

 

Well, i finally made it down to my machinist... it's always an adventure when i walk into that place.

The conversation started with me asking him to do a .030 overbore and zero deck a roller cam 351W, and maybe bump the compression up a bit.

The conversation ended with me buying this.



Another engine that was built, then abandoned at the shop. f4te block 351W, it still has the roller cam spider and dogbones. It's been zero decked, .030 over, and the compression ratio with my worked over iron heads should be right at the 9.75:1 . he did a bunch of calculations. And yes, they are forged pistons.

So, I'm going to pull out this crazy cam thats in the motor, stab in my roller cam, and put it all into the truck. this definitely bumps the timeline up on things.

So, i guess it's time to order a timing cover, figure out if i can locate an extra capacity oil pan, and get some ARP head bolts.

 

What a deal. How much ? One way to increase oil capacity is switch to an FL299 filter. That'll net you another half quart. These are the same diameter as the FL1A but they're longer. Made for the 370/429 truck engines. If your truck doesn't have the oil cooler, get one. The cooler angles the filter towards the front of the truck. My 96 E150 holds 7 quarts with this filter and the oil cooler.

 

Oh, and what cam's in that short block ? Want to sell it ?

 

The short block was $1500, a dirt track guy had it built, and then abandoned it. this will be the 2nd engine I bought this way. apparently, its somewhat common.

I'm debating if I should keep the high volume oil pump on it, or if I should swap to a standard replacement part.

As far as the cam goes, it's a bunpity flat tappet cam that will probably have **** poor street manners. but if you would like, I can PM you the specs.

 

$1500 ? That's a deal. As for the oil pump, if it was built with loose clearances, yea keep it. I'd ask about the clearances too. I'll pass on the cam, was hoping it was a roller.

 

The machinist ( an old boy that's been doing it for like 50 years, and built everything from stock motors to NASCAR team engines ) told me that the only reason it has a high volume pump is to make sure it's still happy at 7000 rpms for a few hours at a time.

Do you have a pic of this oil cooler setup? so it moves the filter so it doesnt stick through the frame hole?? I'm already sold.