How many miles do you have on your stock 6.0
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I was thinking like it came from the factory. Mine is still running perfect but everytime i drive it it scares me because of all the bad things i have read. I use an additive in every tank full with frequent oil changes of 100% synthetic oil. The egr valve bothers me i have never even looked at mine i suppose i should. On another thread there is a guy that claims almost 500k stock original motor but two trannies. I'll likely do as you have one of these days soon just to be safe. I love the old truck
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149,700 stock everything including the Ford Gold....I do however, drain and fill every 30,000...I don't believe it was ever changed out till I bought it at 103,000 miles though. 7degree spreads on average and that's what it's been for the 5 years that I owned it. Minor mods in my sig, but basically still a stock 6.0
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To me, stock means, original bolts,oil cooler, egr in tact, no exhaust mods, no tunes, etc. I'm the second owner but I bought it from a ford dealer that the 1st owner bought it from and traded it in to. So they had all the history on it (no mods). Bought it with 92,000 and I've put the last 98,000 miles on it.
I also believe that after market add on can cause more problems than they solve. That said, I would still like to do the egr delete and an Atlas 40 ficm one day.
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If you haven't done them, there are some smart upgrades for the 05-07 model years.
The upgraded dummy plugs and standpipes have proven to be VERY reliable.
The upgraded HPOP discharge fitting (the one-piece fitting that replaces the STC fitting) has been very reliable also. I think the OEM STC fitting is a high priority to get rid of, because if it fails catastrophically, you might crack the rear cover and add a lot of $$'s to the repair.
The blue spring upgrade is another requirement IMO. That said, I think adding on a fuel pressure sensor and gauge is also a requirement. Low fuel pressure will damage injectors - a costly thing if it happens.
The EGR cooler is a weak design. IMO it will fail eventually - even on a stock truck. If you want to jkeep it stock, then I would remove the OEM EGR cooler and install one from BulletProofDiesel.
Personally, I would think that it would be wise to pull the EGR valve every few years to inspect and clean it (and the intake). However, if you do clean it, do NOT use brake clean. Use carb cleaner and make VERY SURE that you don't get the cleaner too high up the shaft or especially NOT up against the solenoid actuator. Always keep the actuator higher than the valve discs so the cleaner won't drizzle into the holes at the bottom of the actuator or pool at the shaft seal.
Lastly, as Baatzy posted - if you still have the Ford Gold, be sure to drain, flush, and refill every 30k miles or so. To be honest, I think the Ford Gold is responsible for many of the 6.0L issues. If you never overheat it, if you never get a pinhole head gasket or EGR cooler leak, if you regularly flush it .................... then you might be OK. That is no way to live because a lot of that is out of your control. The diesel rated (CAT EC-1 rated) coolants have prove to be MUCH better.
Glad you have had success with your truck, but 103k miles sure doesn't represent much wear and tear on it.
The upgraded dummy plugs and standpipes have proven to be VERY reliable.
The upgraded HPOP discharge fitting (the one-piece fitting that replaces the STC fitting) has been very reliable also. I think the OEM STC fitting is a high priority to get rid of, because if it fails catastrophically, you might crack the rear cover and add a lot of $$'s to the repair.
The blue spring upgrade is another requirement IMO. That said, I think adding on a fuel pressure sensor and gauge is also a requirement. Low fuel pressure will damage injectors - a costly thing if it happens.
The EGR cooler is a weak design. IMO it will fail eventually - even on a stock truck. If you want to jkeep it stock, then I would remove the OEM EGR cooler and install one from BulletProofDiesel.
Personally, I would think that it would be wise to pull the EGR valve every few years to inspect and clean it (and the intake). However, if you do clean it, do NOT use brake clean. Use carb cleaner and make VERY SURE that you don't get the cleaner too high up the shaft or especially NOT up against the solenoid actuator. Always keep the actuator higher than the valve discs so the cleaner won't drizzle into the holes at the bottom of the actuator or pool at the shaft seal.
Lastly, as Baatzy posted - if you still have the Ford Gold, be sure to drain, flush, and refill every 30k miles or so. To be honest, I think the Ford Gold is responsible for many of the 6.0L issues. If you never overheat it, if you never get a pinhole head gasket or EGR cooler leak, if you regularly flush it .................... then you might be OK. That is no way to live because a lot of that is out of your control. The diesel rated (CAT EC-1 rated) coolants have prove to be MUCH better.
Glad you have had success with your truck, but 103k miles sure doesn't represent much wear and tear on it.