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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

1979 f250 crew cab project

 
  #76  
Old 02-04-2019, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by black & blue 78/9 View Post
Are these "stock" SD springs or lift springs? Is moving the axle 1-1/2" necessary? Do you have spec's for the longer shackles?
They are stock C codes out of a salvage yard. If you don't move the axle, the wheel won't be centered in the wheel opening, personal preference I suppose. The shackles were 3/8" x 1 1/2" x 7" flat stock that I drilled.
 
  #77  
Old 02-05-2019, 01:02 PM
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looks good keep on truckin
 
  #78  
Old 02-08-2019, 11:30 AM
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Doesn't this mean that the axle technically sits slightly forward of the middle of the leaf spring arch??
 
  #79  
Old 02-08-2019, 03:30 PM
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That would be correct. 1 1/2". I did some looking and quite a few companies sell axle swap kits that allow you to shift the axle like I did, so I was comfortable in doing it.
 
  #80  
Old 02-09-2019, 11:27 AM
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I'd better keep it updated so you all know I'm still plugging away. I'm currently working on the rear driveshafts. I pulled them both out, cleaned them up and painted them. The center support bearing was junk, imagine that. So now I've got 3 new u joints in and a new support bearing on. I've got to replace the rear output seal on the transfer case before I can put it all back together.
 
  #81  
Old 02-09-2019, 02:21 PM
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There just can't be a day of complete victory when working on old vehicles.

I got the rear seal for the transfer case. Drained the fluid, took the yoke off, and pulled the back cover. Removed the seal and installed the new one. Put the cover on, found out the seal is the wrong size. Ordered a different one, here i sit.

Oh well, check on the fuel leak. Got that fixed, thankfully just had to tighten the hard line fitting at the fuel pump. Hit the key, fired right up! Amazing!

Well, since it's running, might as well open the doors to the shop and let it warm up, get the bubbles out of the cooling system. Ran for 10 minutes, thermostat opened up, all is good. Shut it down, check for leaks. The brand new radiator has a leak! I was super careful installing it, not sure where is coming from, but it's definitely leaking. Emailed the company. I guess I'll let you guys know what happens with that.
 
  #82  
Old 02-10-2019, 01:44 PM
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Well, for starters I'm an idiot. The radiator doesn't leak, must have been coolant from when the radiator was burping out. Wiped it all down, fired it up, let it warm up, no problems.

I did do some measurements on the suspension and here's what I've got. Sitting with the axles on jack stands, the measurements to the center of the hubs are the same front and rear. With that in mind I put my level on the side body lines and it shows just a bit of positive rake on the rear. Once the box goes on worst case is it sits level. I can live with that!
 
  #83  
Old 02-11-2019, 07:46 PM
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I've been steadily knocking stuff off the list! New master cylinder is in, new rubber front brake lines are in, brakes are bled.

Rear tires are on, but it's still on jack stands until I get the rear driveshafts done.

Cleaned up the factory air cleaner, it's on

Just have to replace the rear seal on the transfer case yet, put rear driveshafts in, replace all 3 front driveshaft u joints, put the front tires on, and it will hopefully move under it's own power.

Long way to go to call it finished, but the mechanical side done will be a huge hurtle.
 
  #84  
Old 02-11-2019, 07:53 PM
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ive used the spring perches with 3 holes in them plenty of time, its great to have options when setting up or adusting a truck.
 
  #85  
Old 02-11-2019, 08:35 PM
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you are moving right along!
 
  #86  
Old 02-15-2019, 12:39 AM
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Nzirbel
I'm confussed and hope you can help. In post #74 , when you made the plate to move the axle forward by the 1-1/2". I understand why to center the axle.

What I'm curious about is "Why did you drill the center hole , then weld in the pin and grind it flat?" The 2nd hole makes sense but why drill the first thrn fill it? Didn't you need the center hole for the alignment pin on the axle mount pad? I hope this makes sense.

Thanks for making such a good write up.
 
  #87  
Old 02-15-2019, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by black & blue 78/9 View Post
Nzirbel
I'm confussed and hope you can help. In post #74 , when you made the plate to move the axle forward by the 1-1/2". I understand why to center the axle.

What I'm curious about is "Why did you drill the center hole , then weld in the pin and grind it flat?" The 2nd hole makes sense but why drill the first thrn fill it? Didn't you need the center hole for the alignment pin on the axle mount pad? I hope this makes sense.

Thanks for making such a good write up.
Where it is ground flat is the back side. So in the picture with two plates, you're looking at the top of one, and the bottom of the other . Both have pins welded in them. Does that help?
 
  #88  
Old 02-15-2019, 07:52 PM
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Aaaaaaaah. Ok. That helps. Thank you
 
  #89  
Old 02-16-2019, 06:23 PM
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I guess my hope for this build thread intales a lot. Of course I want you to see the truck get done, Lord knows I do! But I also want you to see that it can be a frustrating process. And that it's ok for your shop to be a pretty messy place and you can still get it done. With that in mind:

Today I started by bleeding the brakes again. I wanted to do it again because not running, the pedal feel was good. Fire it up, straight to the floor. So I started gravity bleeding again. And I'm glad I did, there was a lot of air in the lines yet.

The next project was changing the u joints in the front driveshaft. With a cardone joint, what a pain in the butt. I hope I don't have to do it again any time soon!

Next, time to see if the transmission is any good! The truck is still on jack stands, and the rear wheels are on. Fired it up, dropped it in drive, nothing. Shift the transfer case, nothing. No movement in the driveshafts. Check the tranny fluid, not touching the dipstick. I didn't feel like running into the parts store, which is a 30 minute round trip. Instead I decided beer was in order.

Somedays you have great days working on it, and somedays you wonder if you're crazy. I'm not quitting, but definitely one of those am I crazy days. Oh, and the brakes still suck. Tomorrow is a new day, I guess.
 
  #90  
Old 02-18-2019, 01:26 PM
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Well, another weekend of frustration is over. Thought I'd start Sunday by putting the front wheels on and dropping it off of jack stands finally. They don't fit. They came in the truck, but they rub on the calipers. They're only 15" rims and have ludicrous spacings. I didn't notice it when I got it because the front brakes were frozen anyways. So time to sell them, going to a 16 or 17" rim. .

So then I decided to work on for floor pans. Step 1, unbolt the seat. Step 2, cut the 2 bolts that spun the nuts free underneath, catch straw insulation crap on fire with grinder. Step 3, torch out the seatbelt bolt that stripped out the head. Ugh!

Now rip out what's left of the rubber mat/insulation.




Shop vac the mess out

​​



I do have pans for it already, so a cutting I went.


And there stops the progress. I burned up my 4" grinder, and used the last of the cutting wheels in my die grinder. The good news is the rocker is solid, and the cab mount is repairable.
 

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