Hello.

Could not find the thread about it so created one.
I would like to swap my rear end to 3.73 gears, what parts do i need to get it done ? any tricks and tips ?Is it an easy swap ? Thanks in advance.

 

There is no such thing as a gear "swap". Replacing gears inside a housing means, (because of tolerances in machining with the carrier, ring, pinion, housing, carrier, bearings, races), that every set of gears (regardless if new or used) must be installed for that particular housing...

 

Not this crap again! Come on man, we don't need grammar police here! If you are replacing one gear set/ratio for another ring and pinion of another gear ratio you are swapping gears!! "Swapping gears" doesn't have to mean dropping out a 9" center section "pumpkin" for another one. If you are changing gear set ratio's you are swapping gears. You can change gears it just takes some time and patience. You have to get the preload's, back lash, pinion depth , etc. set correctly but it can be done.


Monstrs There is a bunch of good info you need in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-parts-3.html

It also has a lot of info on other things that you don't need to worry about. You can sort thru it and use what you need.

I recommend getting the full install/rebuild kit. Along with a extra new pinion bearing that is the same brand as the kit (preferably Timken ) . You clearance/slightly enlarge the inside of the spare bearing to make it so you can slip it on and off the pinion gear by hand( bearing are a press on deal normally ) . You use this during mock up to help set the correct pinion depth. Once you get the pinion depth correct you tear it back down and press on the other new pinion gear with the shim or shim stack you determined with the spare bearing. I also like to get a spare crush sleeve and pinion seal and nut just to have in case I need them.

 

Grammar police?

Sorry, but when people say swap, they use it in a way like theyre swapping mirrors from a different model year.

As I can tell from your post, you know whats involved.

But from the OP's post, how he said he couldnt find a single post related to the subject, it really doesnt appear like he knows what he is in for.

 

Sorry if I came off a little harsh, it just seems like people in this van forum get all worked up over terms. Just like some guy getting all worked up over me calling a rear axle assembly a "rear diff" just like thousands of other people in this hobby do. But he felt the need to correct me and others about it.

What about a engine "swap". The term "swap" doesn't mean it's a simple job. It just means you are changing from one item to another.

The thread I posted the link to has some video links that cover some info on the gear change too.

It's a job, and there are some specialty tools needed, like a 1/2 drive torque wrench, dial indicator with magnetic base/stand, dial in/lb torque wrench for checking pinion preload, etc.. You also need something to hold the pinion yoke/drive flange while you torque the pinion nut. A shop press is also needed for bearing removal and installation.. And there are tools that make the job a whole lot faster. Like the pinion depth setting tool/gauge.

If it's a person's first gear change it's always better to have someone that's done it before help them. But it can be done on their own. Just be prepared to pretty much tear the complete rear axle assembly down. And also be prepared to install and remove the pinion gear and carrier multiple times to get everything set right. When you tear it down also make sure to keep everything organized and in the spot/ order it came out. Like make sure to keep track of the carrier bearing shims and keep them separated so they can go back in the same side they came out of. That will cut down on some of the set up time and frustration. It will give a good start on the set up.

Some people prefer to just swap out the entire rear end assembly from a junk yard or third party. But that can be a major job too. U-bolts that old can be a total nightmare and might need to be cut. And then you have to either pull your axle shafts out and swap over the brake backing plates from the original diff. Or unhook the brake hose and bleed the brakes. And you don't know the condition or the other rear axle assembly.

 

Thats how I use the term swap, an easy change from one to another... a remove and replace procedure. Engine "swap" for many people (especially on older vehicles) can be easier than changing gear sets due to the complexity involved in measurements and tolerances.. a term probably derived from the early days where there wasnt a whole lot of differences in engines, electrical systems, hvac, transmissions, and frames so putting a complete motor from another model was easy. I also prefer using a case spreader for Dana's.... But thats a whole different subject.

 

Whatever you say. Even swapping a direct replacement engine can be a royal pain. I'd take a gear swap over an engine swap any time. Especially in a van! I've done engine swaps, transmission swaps, axle swaps, frame swaps, body swaps, gear swaps, etc., etc. Very few of them were what I would consider easy. No easy button on any of them.

The OP's van is a E150 so the axle is a 8.8" not a Dana, no case spreader needed.

 

thanks for your good answers and suggestions. I have a mechanic who has changed gears so we will do it together. But still need moe info, i will check out that other thread.

P.S. another mike still cant cocentrare on the thread main question. All he needs is the correctly writen question. I can not understand those kind of people, who has nothing to do but comenting out of subject thread about gramar use. Get a life another_mike

 

I'm curious, is there any reason a 9" axle assembly wouldn't work in an E150? Does the removable carrier weaken the setup? Years ago for a Galaxie I had 3 hog's heads ready (3.00, 3.56 and 3.73) so quick & easy to change.

 

Here's a list of I would get to do the gear swap.

Gear set
Complete install/overhaul kit with shim set & Timken bearings
At the same time I would replace the axle bearings and seals ( you have to pull the axles shafts anyways ) . Unless you've already had these recently replaced.

And like I mentioned I would also get the following spare parts:

Pinion bearing, Timken ( for set up purposes )
pinion nut
pinion seal
crush sleeve or get the solid spacer/sleeve

and can't forget the gear lube.




They ran the 9" in the E100's & E150's. I think they had them until 85 or 86 in the vans. Then they swapped over to the 8.8". But unless there are plans for multiple gear changes in the future it's not really needed. Besides the drop out pumpkins on the 9". The only other real benefit is the axle bearing design. No C-clips on the axles!! But if someone wanted a 9", it's pretty much a bolt in deal. The pinion yoke is different between the 8.8" and 9".

 

You can make anything work in any vehicle. I have a 10.5 sterling in my van...