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Electric Fan Direction Pusher or Puller

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Old 07-27-2018, 01:39 PM
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Electric Fan Direction Pusher or Puller

Have aluminum radiator with AC condenser in front of it and in engine area have electric fan with shroud. I have it installed as a puller draws air from outside thru radiator and condenser-- I have tried this set-up on a road test 2 times and 2 NEW good thermostats on a cool morning fan goes on at 200 degrees but the gauge keeps climbing to 240 then I shut it off-- My opinion is the big aluminum shroud is holding heat back in -- it should never climb that high on a 55 degree day air blowing thru it---does anyone have a set-up like this installed and how does it work--- have ac condenser and radiator lots of heat to get rid of--

 
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:56 PM
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You have it installed correctly. You wouldn't want to push hot air through the condenser. Beautiful build.
 
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:56 AM
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From.what I have read pullers are more efficient. You have it mounted correctly. If you have a pusher fan you can turn it into a puller on most of these fans by simply reversing the polarity on the wiring.
 
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:47 AM
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Nice. Don't forget to add the rubber seal at the top that prevents air from coming through the grill and escaping over the top tank without going through the radiator.
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:13 AM
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does the fact the backside is covered in aluminum affect the cooling ability?
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by moose79 View Post
does the fact the backside is covered in aluminum affect the cooling ability?
OK as long as you leave 1 clearance between fins and shroud.
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by moose79 View Post
does the fact the backside is covered in aluminum affect the cooling ability?
Yes, it improves fan efficiency a lot. Air that would normally be thrown out at the periphery is forced to go through the blades thus actually trying to form a vacuum between the fan and radiator which causes air to be drawn through the radiator corners as well.

 
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:05 PM
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Have all the above done correct but will not run COOL goes up to 240 degrees got to shut it off or it will blow--- tried 2 new thermostats--I am thinking using fan alone would be better-- LOTS of HOT air to to get out of a 16 " hole-- shroud is so hot can not even touch it or get close to it --- open up hood HEAT you would not believe the hood levers to open are so HOT got to put gloves on to open---
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by F100supercrew View Post
Have all the above done correct but will not run COOL goes up to 240 degrees got to shut it off or it will blow--- tried 2 new thermostats--I am thinking using fan alone would be better-- LOTS of HOT air to to get out of a 16 " hole-- shroud is so hot can not even touch it or get close to it --- open up hood HEAT you would not believe the hood levers to open are so HOT got to put gloves on to open---
Your fan isn't turning or it's turning too slow. What's the setting on your fan switch? There is a coolant flow restriction. What's the setting of your thermostat? Is it installed correctly? Is your coolant pump belt tight?

 
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Old 08-01-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man View Post
Your fan isn't turning or it's turning too slow. What's the setting on your fan switch? There is a coolant flow restriction. What's the setting of your thermostat? Is it installed correctly? Is your coolant pump belt tight?

Fan is running at a HIGH speed-- drawing heat out -- goes on at 200 degrees go off at 185 degrees-- put 2 NEW thermostat in and yes in correct--belt is tight-- Thanks
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 02:14 PM
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Consider you may have other issues other than the fan. What kind of flow is that fan rated? What is the voltage reading at the fan wire when running? The fan should make a "roar". At road speed, you should not even need the fan I can run my 350 SBC powered F4 with the electric fan turned off so long as I have forward movement. You don't have a reverse flow pump installed, do you? How about the lower radiator hose, internal wire to prevent collapse?
Edit: Just read your last entry. Try running the fan direct hookup so it runs all the time. Again, you should not need the fan while the truck is moving.
Edit: I have the AC condenser on my truck.
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 04:50 PM
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To me that fan looks too small for the shroud size...you could go with a fan 2 inches larger and improve the air flow considerably. Here is one of the fan/shroud setups that I used on a build.
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by F100supercrew View Post
Fan is running at a HIGH speed-- drawing heat out -- goes on at 200 degrees go off at 185 degrees--
That's the part that doesn't make sense to me. The fact that you say the fan shuts off after bringing the coolant temp down to 185 suggests the fan is working well and doing it's job. What are you doing to get 245? Are you running on a dyno with no forward motion. Also, what are you measuring that 245 temperature with? Imo, the fan shroud could be a few inches deeper to allow for better air direction change. You don't have much of a plenum right now.

 
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man View Post
That's the part that doesn't make sense to me. The fact that you say the fan shuts off after bringing the coolant temp down to 185 suggests the fan is working well and doing it's job. What are you doing to get 245? Are you running on a dyno with no forward motion. Also, what are you measuring that 245 temperature with? Imo, the fan shroud could be a few inches deeper to allow for better air direction change. You don't have much of a plenum right now.
I never said it shuts off ( THAT IS THE PROBLEM ) it goes to 200 degrees on gauge the fan relay turns it on like it should at 200 degrees fan is at a very high speed but the temp keeps going up on the gauge went to 240 fan never brought it down to 185 degrees where it will shut off--- supplier is telling me this set-up should work I tell them to much shroud and hole should be 18" with fan or ? ? -- shroud and surrounding sheet metal is hot to touch--
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:08 PM
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what temp thermostat are you using? I use 180s, so around 180 you should feel the upper radiator hose start to get hot as the coolant goes through. Correct water pump? Serpentine belt water pumps have impellers that normally turn backwards compared to a V belt setup, you could have the wrong impeller, you may have gotten a pump rebuilt with the wrong parts if it was an over the counter job. I agree on getting a larger fan, and I would also cut some holes in the shroud. There is a lot of area where air cannot escape when driving. My factory setups have rubber flaps that push open at road speed to keep air from getting trapped behind the shroud. I dont even run shrouds and never get higher than 190 degrees at any time.

 

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