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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

New to me 6.4!

  #16  
Old 08-03-2018, 02:22 PM
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Looks nice afmedic, familiar with you from the 7.3 forum. I’m considering a new truck too but leaning towards a 6.7.
 
  #17  
Old 08-03-2018, 06:12 PM
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I really wanted a 6.7, but I cant afford one right now. We have one at work and it is awesome! I love my 6.4 so far, we will see how long that lasts lol. It's a used truck so I've already found a bunch of stuff that needs to be replaced or fixed

-rear shock bushings are gone and clunks
-passenger side blend door wont go to AC
-drivers side blend door wont go to heat
-small leak from front main seal
-doesnt have cab lights! (Personal preference!)
-front end noise that I have yet to find

hopefully I wont be finding too much more.
 
  #18  
Old 08-04-2018, 02:28 PM
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That comfort list would be the least of my concerns

depending on the miles and hours , I would be questioning what services past were not done


im paranoid about that kind of stuff and unless I have proof of past services, I change all fluids and all filters ASAP .

proceed with caution.

 
  #19  
Old 08-04-2018, 05:39 PM
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Is there a way to see if it has been studded without taking the valve cover off? That would give an idea as to how it was treated/taken care of in its past I would think.
 
  #20  
Old 08-04-2018, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by afmedic View Post
Is there a way to see if it has been studded without taking the valve cover off? That would give an idea as to how it was treated/taken care of in its past I would think.

stock 6.4 engines rarely have head gasket problems....the head gasket problems are mainly on engines that use tuners to advance the timing .

the 6.4 has more propensity for fuels system, cooling system, and lube system problems.

if you need more power, methonal injection using a 5 gallon tank, 3 250ml nozzles that kicking at 4lbs of boost would be better than a tuner as the methonal injection cools, cleans, provides more power with out having to advance the timing.

so low priority on arp studs

higher oriority on oil bypass filters, cooling system filters, etc

 
  #21  
Old 08-05-2018, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by afmedic View Post
I really wanted a 6.7, but I cant afford one right now. We have one at work and it is awesome! I love my 6.4 so far, we will see how long that lasts lol. It's a used truck so I've already found a bunch of stuff that needs to be replaced or fixed

-rear shock bushings are gone and clunks
-passenger side blend door wont go to AC
-drivers side blend door wont go to heat
-small leak from front main seal
-doesnt have cab lights! (Personal preference!)
-front end noise that I have yet to find

hopefully I wont be finding too much more.
The issue highlighted in bold above, will require instrument panel removal to access and replace the driver side blend door actuator.

 
  #22  
Old 08-05-2018, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
The issue highlighted in bold above, will require instrument panel removal to access and replace the driver side blend door actuator.
by instrument panel do you mean gauge cluster or dashboard? I've pulled many a dash for heater cores and blend doors but it's been a while since I worked at the dealer****
 
  #23  
Old 08-05-2018, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz View Post



stock 6.4 engines rarely have head gasket problems....the head gasket problems are mainly on engines that use tuners to advance the timing .

the 6.4 has more propensity for fuels system, cooling system, and lube system problems.

if you need more power, methonal injection using a 5 gallon tank, 3 250ml nozzles that kicking at 4lbs of boost would be better than a tuner as the methonal injection cools, cleans, provides more power with out having to advance the timing.

so low priority on arp studs

higher oriority on oil bypass filters, cooling system filters, etc

this one has a hs mini maxx tuner on it for the dpf delete. It was turned all the way up when I got it. I reprogrammed it on the mildest tune, and keep it on stock or tow. I dont do any hot rodding with it and never will!
 
  #24  
Old 08-05-2018, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
The issue highlighted in bold above, will require instrument panel removal to access and replace the driver side blend door actuator.

Drivers side blend door actuator can be done without dash removal. I did mine 2 years ago I think I think it was now............Couple wooden wedges (you prob have some in your gear/on your helmet to hold doors open)....a wrench, excellent finger/screw retention abilities and contorting yourself in the passenger side floor to reach actuator. I did a write up somewhere...will try and find it for ya.
 
  #25  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by afmedic View Post
this one has a hs mini maxx tuner on it for the dpf delete. It was turned all the way up when I got it. I reprogrammed it on the mildest tune, and keep it on stock or tow. I dont do any hot rodding with it and never will!
Finally somebody gets it. Good on ya. The truck should do you well.
 
  #26  
Old 08-06-2018, 08:34 PM
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I also set it to defuel if coolant is less than 180 degrees or boost goes above 38 psi. Figured that would keep it from running a hot tune if the wifey jumps in and hits the wrong button before its warmed up, and itll keep me from too much boost when I'm passing someone. Just spitballing since I didn't do a whole lot of research on the best defueling parameters, but I feel like that's a good start.
 
  #27  
Old 08-06-2018, 10:51 PM
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If my memory serves me right be cautious in the boost area. These engines have crazy boost especially chipped. If you have completely deleted the coolers not just turned them off, then the pathway for the excess boost is now gone and it back feeds through the turbo. A lot of guys run it this way including me when I had my truck, however I have heard it is possible to damage the turbos so just be careful.

I hope i remembered that correctly. If not someone will correct me
 
  #28  
Old 08-12-2018, 08:35 AM
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My thread in the 7.3 forum "always something but I love her anyway" seems to fit for the new girl too. While trying to replace my worn drag link (which I still cant get out btw) I noticed that my radiator is leaking. Checked it real good and I have the updated hoses that arent leaking. After researching I found that worn radiator support bushings can cause a cracked radiator...they're shot too. So I ordered a new radiator, core support bushings, and thermostats since I'll have the system open. I'm also going to take this opportunity to do my egr cooler delete.
 
  #29  
Old 08-12-2018, 06:27 PM
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The awesome radiator job. I had the privedgle to do mine twice!! I will link my thread. It’s up to you but I would take the opportunity to replace everything on the front end because it will be wide open and easy to get too. Waterpump, belts, tensioners, pulleys, etc. I have all the part numbers in my thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html
 
  #30  
Old 08-12-2018, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406 View Post
The awesome radiator job. I had the privedgle to do mine twice!! I will link my thread. Itís up to you but I would take the opportunity to replace everything on the front end because it will be wide open and easy to get too. Waterpump, belts, tensioners, pulleys, etc. I have all the part numbers in my thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html
whyd you have to do it twice? Same spot leaking both times? I'm fairly certain mine is leaking because the radiator support mounts are shot. Hopefully replacing those at the same time will keep it from happening again any time soon.
 

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