Anyone upgrade calipers?
#16
07-31-2018, 11:50 PM
#17
08-01-2018, 07:41 AM
You won't find anything for the 2013+ F250/350 from SSBC because they chose not to offer parts for the 14.28" factory brakes.
#18
08-01-2018, 08:09 AM
Fleet Mechanic
Has anyone done the 2012- to 2013+ conversion? I would like to know what is involved. I know the rotors and calipers would get replaced, but what about the hoses and master cylinder? Will the calipers bolt up or does the knuckle need to be replaced? Will the ABS still work correctly?
All questions that need to be answered.
Thanks for any input.
Mark
All questions that need to be answered.
Thanks for any input.
Mark
#19
08-01-2018, 09:40 AM
I can't speak for the models past 2008, but with the change in the brakes from the '99-04 to '05-08 years that small increase in caliper piston sizes required a change in the master cylinder diameter to increase the volume of fluid for the larger pistons to keep the pedal travel in the desired range. But then that required also a change in the brake pedal ratio to maintain pedal effort to meet the FMVSS 105 target for stopping distance during the booster failure section. If not for more leverage the non-boosted hydraulic pressure would not have been enough at 150lb pedal effort.
A long way of saying if you increase the volume of fluid needed for caliper displacement you'll have a longer pedal. To compensate the pumping volume of the master cylinder needs to increase or you have longer travel. If you increase the diameter of the master cylinder it takes more pedal effort to achieve the same hydraulic pressure.
Way easier to bump up the coefficient of friction of the brake pad material, coming from a guy who worked in the friction material business.
A long way of saying if you increase the volume of fluid needed for caliper displacement you'll have a longer pedal. To compensate the pumping volume of the master cylinder needs to increase or you have longer travel. If you increase the diameter of the master cylinder it takes more pedal effort to achieve the same hydraulic pressure.
Way easier to bump up the coefficient of friction of the brake pad material, coming from a guy who worked in the friction material business.
#20
08-02-2018, 09:48 AM
Has anyone done the 2012- to 2013+ conversion? I would like to know what is involved. I know the rotors and calipers would get replaced, but what about the hoses and master cylinder? Will the calipers bolt up or does the knuckle need to be replaced? Will the ABS still work correctly?
All questions that need to be answered.
Thanks for any input.
Mark
All questions that need to be answered.
Thanks for any input.
Mark
#21
08-03-2018, 09:39 AM
Here are the $4,500.00 6-piston Calipers and Rotors for the 2013+ that I found - https://www.stillen.com/catalog/prod...category/1301/ Nice to dream
#22
08-03-2018, 11:24 PM
Here are the $4,500.00 6-piston Calipers and Rotors for the 2013+ that I found - https://www.stillen.com/catalog/prod...category/1301/ Nice to dream
#24
08-04-2018, 06:46 AM
#25
08-04-2018, 09:01 AM
#26
08-04-2018, 12:50 PM
#27
08-05-2018, 07:55 AM
You could probably find the whole set-up at a junkyard at a reasonable price and is really shouldn't be a killer conversion.
#28
08-05-2018, 09:14 AM
Fleet Mechanic
Yes I know. I hear it all the time. Your trucks too tall....You have too much power....Your hitch is too big...blah blah blah blah blah lol. If trucks were all stock, this website probably wouldn't exist. But I'll keep on look'n. Just like my trucks a little different.
Mark
#29
08-05-2018, 10:11 AM
You can always get axles narrowed. Might not be cheap, and the next class up may not have the wheels.
Scrub radius is the best way to improve effectiveness. Going to a higher effectiveness, high thermal stability is the most cost effective. While the dissipated energy is still the same (weight of vehicle) it’s done at a slower swept speed with the stock size rotors, so clamped thermal temp can go up and you need more fade resistance. Overall temp does not go up.
Going to something like Hawk severe duty for towing/commercial could solve the issue, although the first cold stops can cause some puckering with this high metallic compound. From tests, cross drilled rotors don’t help this at all, from both reduced mass and interrupting the normal airflow through the vanes unless the rotors went through a specific design for the side stepping the flow. A standard design rotor drilled tends to pull less air from the center of the rotor and rotor temp can actually go higher.
Scrub radius is the best way to improve effectiveness. Going to a higher effectiveness, high thermal stability is the most cost effective. While the dissipated energy is still the same (weight of vehicle) it’s done at a slower swept speed with the stock size rotors, so clamped thermal temp can go up and you need more fade resistance. Overall temp does not go up.
Going to something like Hawk severe duty for towing/commercial could solve the issue, although the first cold stops can cause some puckering with this high metallic compound. From tests, cross drilled rotors don’t help this at all, from both reduced mass and interrupting the normal airflow through the vanes unless the rotors went through a specific design for the side stepping the flow. A standard design rotor drilled tends to pull less air from the center of the rotor and rotor temp can actually go higher.
#30
08-05-2018, 10:23 AM
Lots of good options, I like it. My passenger front pads seem to be wearing slightly quicker than the driver side, unevenly I guess. So I'm just trying to see what options are available. I'm going to have it looked at on my next oil change. Change the oil every 5000 miles and rotate my tires too. I measured my pads in and out on each side. The passenger side is wearing quicker than the driver, so I'm preparing for possible brake work.