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No Start Issue - No WTS light

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  #1  
Old 07-22-2018, 04:53 PM
Pirublues
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No Start Issue - No WTS light

My 2000 7.3 excursion was idling and shut off as if I turned the key. Tried to restart no WTS light no fuel pump. It tries though.

I checked all the fuses including #30. Unplugged the fuel bowl heater and nothing. I also tried wiggling the harness and nothing. Im currently looking for a pcm to see if that's the issue.

Any more ideas? I've been reading through tons of threads for the past few days. The truck is in a parking lot at work and it's been over 100deg lately, so my wrench time is limited. Also, my left shoulder is fractured lol.

Here's a YouTube link of me trying to start:
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:47 PM
cleatus12r
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Not relevant.

Good luck!
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:57 PM
hydro man 17
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Your fuel gauge shows below a quarter tank. Have you done the in tanks mods? Add ~5 gallons of fuel and try again.
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:24 PM
brandonrr
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Does your truck have a chip in it? If the chip has a poor connection where it piggybacks to the pcm, it can cause your symptoms.

On the first drive after I installed a php hydra on my truck, the truck shut off suddenly when I released my parking brake after fueling up. It had jarred the marginal connection just enough to shut the truck off. No WTS light until I wiggled the pcm box. It continued to stall a few times on the limp home. Each time, wiggling the pcm box would bring it back. After getting home, I pulled the pcm again and cleaned the contacts some more. No issues since.
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17 View Post
Your fuel gauge shows below a quarter tank. Have you done the in tanks mods? Add ~5 gallons of fuel and try again.
X2, start with the easy/ cheap stuff first.
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17 View Post
Your fuel gauge shows below a quarter tank. Have you done the in tanks mods? Add ~5 gallons of fuel and try again.
Haven't done any fuel tank mods. Stock truck minus exhaust. I'll try to add fuel, it doesn't feel like it ran out of gas when it shut off though.

Originally Posted by brandonrr View Post
Does your truck have a chip in it? If the chip has a poor connection where it piggybacks to the pcm, it can cause your symptoms.

On the first drive after I installed a php hydra on my truck, the truck shut off suddenly when I released my parking brake after fueling up. It had jarred the marginal connection just enough to shut the truck off. No WTS light until I wiggled the pcm box. It continued to stall a few times on the limp home. Each time, wiggling the pcm box would bring it back. After getting home, I pulled the pcm again and cleaned the contacts some more. No issues since.
No chips or tunes. Do you think I could've actually kick the pcm loose?
 
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Old 07-22-2018, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Pirublues View Post
Haven't done any fuel tank mods. Stock truck minus exhaust. I'll try to add fuel, it doesn't feel like it ran out of gas when it shut off though.



No chips or tunes. Do you think I could've actually kick the pcm loose?
‘Google Harpoon and Hutch mod. The pick up foot in the fuel tank breaks off, this prevents fuel from being picked up from about 1/4 tank. Truck dies, won’t start … add at least 5 gallons, BEFORE actually trying to start the truck, cycle the key 4/5xs to Prime the fuel pump and fill the fuel bowl. Then start it, report back.
‘The pcm has 1 bolt 10mm IIRC, drivers side above steering, behind fuse boxes. Unlikely it came loose.
 
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:12 AM
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PCM isn't getting power if no WTS light. Check to ensure you're getting +12V on both sides of Fuse 30.
 
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:43 AM
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Not fuel issue. Agree with no PCM connection and the checks above. Also make sure nothing is plugged in to the obd ports.
 
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Old 07-23-2018, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by IDI-Charlie View Post
PCM isn't getting power if no WTS light. Check to ensure you're getting +12V on both sides of Fuse 30.
Thanks ill try that

Originally Posted by DieselDenny View Post
Not fuel issue. Agree with no PCM connection and the checks above. Also make sure nothing is plugged in to the obd ports.
Which reminds me. No readers can communicate with the pcm.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Pirublues View Post
Thanks ill try that
Which reminds me. No readers can communicate with the pcm.

There are some that will read it. If you are looking for codes then you can get one from Amazon that uses blue-tooth and the TORQUE app to read them. Actual mechanic readers can get pricey.

There is a harness that you can disconnect from the PCM to see if there are any burnt or loose pins. It is on the drivers side firewall with a single 8mm bolt holding it to the PCM. Even disconnecting and reconnecting can help with a loose or bad connection.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Pirublues View Post
Which reminds me. No readers can communicate with the pcm.
Originally Posted by BillyBob69 View Post
There are some that will read it.
First, let's make sure we're talking about the same thing.

To the OP, does your reader turn on, but not read any trouble codes? Or does it not even power up and communicate with the PCM?

Stewart
 
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:14 PM
'88 E-350
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No power at the OBD port can be a fuse. Every vehicle I've had this issue with shared the 12v power outlet fuse to power the port.
 
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:22 PM
'88 E-350
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Your anti theft system is activated, fast flashing of the THEFT light. I don't recall if that keeps the wait to start from illuminating, but it would be worth trying a different key and/or a PATS reset. Turn the key on and wait for the fast flashing to stop, about 30 seconds or so. Turn off and remove the key, wait for it to start blinking slow, just a few seconds, and try again.

When all is normal: when you turn the key on the THEFT light should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off. Fast flash with the key on means it's in theft protection mode and will allow cranking but no start.
 
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Old 07-26-2018, 02:19 PM
Pirublues
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Thanks for the help everyone. I havent touched the truck since this past weekend. Too hot out and super busy with work.



Originally Posted by BillyBob69 View Post
There are some that will read it. If you are looking for codes then you can get one from Amazon that uses blue-tooth and the TORQUE app to read them. Actual mechanic readers can get pricey.

There is a harness that you can disconnect from the PCM to see if there are any burnt or loose pins. It is on the drivers side firewall with a single 8mm bolt holding it to the PCM. Even disconnecting and reconnecting can help with a loose or bad connection.
I have multiple. I'll check that thanks



Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
First, let's make sure we're talking about the same thing.

To the OP, does your reader turn on, but not read any trouble codes? Or does it not even power up and communicate with the PCM?

Stewart
The blue-tooth one's that plug into your ODB but you read off of apps on the phone and even my Edge CTS, neither of them can successfully connect to the PCM. They do power on, just cannot "communicate".

Originally Posted by '88 E-350 View Post
Your anti theft system is activated, fast flashing of the THEFT light. I don't recall if that keeps the wait to start from illuminating, but it would be worth trying a different key and/or a PATS reset. Turn the key on and wait for the fast flashing to stop, about 30 seconds or so. Turn off and remove the key, wait for it to start blinking slow, just a few seconds, and try again.

When all is normal: when you turn the key on the THEFT light should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off. Fast flash with the key on means it's in theft protection mode and will allow cranking but no start.
My anti-theft light is something I've never paid attention to. I'll try that this evening.
 
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