No Start Issue - No WTS light
#1
No Start Issue - No WTS light
My 2000 7.3 excursion was idling and shut off as if I turned the key. Tried to restart no WTS light no fuel pump. It tries though.
I checked all the fuses including #30. Unplugged the fuel bowl heater and nothing. I also tried wiggling the harness and nothing. Im currently looking for a pcm to see if that's the issue.
Any more ideas? I've been reading through tons of threads for the past few days. The truck is in a parking lot at work and it's been over 100deg lately, so my wrench time is limited. Also, my left shoulder is fractured lol.
Here's a YouTube link of me trying to start:
I checked all the fuses including #30. Unplugged the fuel bowl heater and nothing. I also tried wiggling the harness and nothing. Im currently looking for a pcm to see if that's the issue.
Any more ideas? I've been reading through tons of threads for the past few days. The truck is in a parking lot at work and it's been over 100deg lately, so my wrench time is limited. Also, my left shoulder is fractured lol.
Here's a YouTube link of me trying to start:
#2
#4
Does your truck have a chip in it? If the chip has a poor connection where it piggybacks to the pcm, it can cause your symptoms.
On the first drive after I installed a php hydra on my truck, the truck shut off suddenly when I released my parking brake after fueling up. It had jarred the marginal connection just enough to shut the truck off. No WTS light until I wiggled the pcm box. It continued to stall a few times on the limp home. Each time, wiggling the pcm box would bring it back. After getting home, I pulled the pcm again and cleaned the contacts some more. No issues since.
On the first drive after I installed a php hydra on my truck, the truck shut off suddenly when I released my parking brake after fueling up. It had jarred the marginal connection just enough to shut the truck off. No WTS light until I wiggled the pcm box. It continued to stall a few times on the limp home. Each time, wiggling the pcm box would bring it back. After getting home, I pulled the pcm again and cleaned the contacts some more. No issues since.
#6
Does your truck have a chip in it? If the chip has a poor connection where it piggybacks to the pcm, it can cause your symptoms.
On the first drive after I installed a php hydra on my truck, the truck shut off suddenly when I released my parking brake after fueling up. It had jarred the marginal connection just enough to shut the truck off. No WTS light until I wiggled the pcm box. It continued to stall a few times on the limp home. Each time, wiggling the pcm box would bring it back. After getting home, I pulled the pcm again and cleaned the contacts some more. No issues since.
On the first drive after I installed a php hydra on my truck, the truck shut off suddenly when I released my parking brake after fueling up. It had jarred the marginal connection just enough to shut the truck off. No WTS light until I wiggled the pcm box. It continued to stall a few times on the limp home. Each time, wiggling the pcm box would bring it back. After getting home, I pulled the pcm again and cleaned the contacts some more. No issues since.
#7
‘The pcm has 1 bolt 10mm IIRC, drivers side above steering, behind fuse boxes. Unlikely it came loose.
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#10
Which reminds me. No readers can communicate with the pcm.
#11
There are some that will read it. If you are looking for codes then you can get one from Amazon that uses blue-tooth and the TORQUE app to read them. Actual mechanic readers can get pricey.
There is a harness that you can disconnect from the PCM to see if there are any burnt or loose pins. It is on the drivers side firewall with a single 8mm bolt holding it to the PCM. Even disconnecting and reconnecting can help with a loose or bad connection.
#12
First, let's make sure we're talking about the same thing.
To the OP, does your reader turn on, but not read any trouble codes? Or does it not even power up and communicate with the PCM?
Stewart
To the OP, does your reader turn on, but not read any trouble codes? Or does it not even power up and communicate with the PCM?
Stewart
#14
Your anti theft system is activated, fast flashing of the THEFT light. I don't recall if that keeps the wait to start from illuminating, but it would be worth trying a different key and/or a PATS reset. Turn the key on and wait for the fast flashing to stop, about 30 seconds or so. Turn off and remove the key, wait for it to start blinking slow, just a few seconds, and try again.
When all is normal: when you turn the key on the THEFT light should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off. Fast flash with the key on means it's in theft protection mode and will allow cranking but no start.
When all is normal: when you turn the key on the THEFT light should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off. Fast flash with the key on means it's in theft protection mode and will allow cranking but no start.
#15
Thanks for the help everyone. I havent touched the truck since this past weekend. Too hot out and super busy with work.
I have multiple. I'll check that thanks
The blue-tooth one's that plug into your ODB but you read off of apps on the phone and even my Edge CTS, neither of them can successfully connect to the PCM. They do power on, just cannot "communicate".
My anti-theft light is something I've never paid attention to. I'll try that this evening.
There are some that will read it. If you are looking for codes then you can get one from Amazon that uses blue-tooth and the TORQUE app to read them. Actual mechanic readers can get pricey.
There is a harness that you can disconnect from the PCM to see if there are any burnt or loose pins. It is on the drivers side firewall with a single 8mm bolt holding it to the PCM. Even disconnecting and reconnecting can help with a loose or bad connection.
There is a harness that you can disconnect from the PCM to see if there are any burnt or loose pins. It is on the drivers side firewall with a single 8mm bolt holding it to the PCM. Even disconnecting and reconnecting can help with a loose or bad connection.
Your anti theft system is activated, fast flashing of the THEFT light. I don't recall if that keeps the wait to start from illuminating, but it would be worth trying a different key and/or a PATS reset. Turn the key on and wait for the fast flashing to stop, about 30 seconds or so. Turn off and remove the key, wait for it to start blinking slow, just a few seconds, and try again.
When all is normal: when you turn the key on the THEFT light should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off. Fast flash with the key on means it's in theft protection mode and will allow cranking but no start.
When all is normal: when you turn the key on the THEFT light should turn on for a couple seconds then turn off. Fast flash with the key on means it's in theft protection mode and will allow cranking but no start.