Working on my 2006 6.0 - completely STOCK (except for upgraded EGR/Oil COOLER, standpipes etc, due to HPOP) Truck currently has 68,000 miles. (I know, I know)... I ordered parts from KC Turbo and "rebuilt" my turbo. Reasons were the dreaded P0299 DTC. Everything went "alright" - it just took longer than what most people stated. (I tend to stare a lot) Put it back together and went the extra mile by replacing VGT Control Valve (OEM) and "upgrading" the oil feed line and turbo "Drain Tube". My first test drive was really un-impressive. It felt like I had a lack of power off the line. Looking at my DashBoss, it shows VGT% at 85% - at idle. Once moving and stepping on the gas, it does go up/down accordingly. However, back at idle (warmed up) it still reads 85%.... New CAC hoses, along with NEW inlet tube and hoses (going from plastic to metal tube). Again, stock - no tuner. I kept reading about leaks being the cause of the VGT being at 85%... I did not hear/feel or see any signs of a leak - until last night. Check out the pictures below and give me your opinions. The "Y" pipe clamp (DRIVERS SIDE?) connecting to the turbo was a problem for me. I got it to align (finally), but the clamp appeared to be messed up. The retaining "loops" for the t-bolt were a bit buggered up. I actually had to remove the clamp (turbo still on truck) and mess with it until I was comfortable that it would torque correctly. However, one could see that it was "deformed" and not in its original configuration. Seeing the pictures below, it APPEARS I may have a leak (circled in RED) due to the soot tracks.... Sorry for the duplicates, I just wanted to show multiple shots, even though its the same angle....I am pretty certain the up pipe and turbo were aligned - HOWEVER, upon installation, am I relying on a metal clamp to draw the turbo and pipe together close enough to create a seal? I have stuck my hand back there while truck was running - and I sure don't feel or hear a leak..... So here are my thoughts.

Buy a NEW OEM clamp. Remove and replace the old one. I'm pretty sure I can do this WITHOUT removing the turbo. I would losen up the bolts to the pedestal and losen/remove the PASSENGER Side DOWN pipe. I again will ensure a proper fit/mate and even use a strap (YouTube) to possibly draw the surfaces closer together prior to torquing...

Does anyone have the CORRECT part number for this? I am looking at think its the F81Z-8287-EA or is it the 6C3Z-5A231-AA. (Again, wanting the DRIVERS side up pipe).

I'm reading the torque is 108 in-lbs (9 ft. lbs).

Also, when replacing my VGT Control Valve - Was I supposed to go through a "re-learning" effort for this (Operating temp, turn headlights on/off, disconnect batteries, etc. etc. etc.)



My pics:



? During rebuild, I only disconnected Passenger side battery. I've read it's necessary, but then I think I read it's only for pre 2005-6 trucks.... Could someone please confirm?

Also, trying to diagnose with the only scan tool I have, could someone please suggest the most common PID's to have on display to possibly track down this issue of having 85% VGT at idle?

ECT (F*)
EOT (F*)
ICP (psi)
ICP (volts)
IPR # (%)
MAF (volts)
MGP (psi)
VGTDC (%)
EPB (kPa?)
EPB (volts)
Fuel Pressure (psi)
EGT (F*)

EGR (%)

Thanks!