1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

F500 Brake Job

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  #121  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:21 PM
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  #122  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:25 PM
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Do I need to take this cover off? If so, I’d have to remove the five lugs. How do I do that?


 
  #123  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:33 PM
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It looks like the seal is bigger than the black cover. Which would mean I need to take the cover off?
 
  #124  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:50 PM
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I got the seal out but it looks different than the original. The old one has a step in it which makes it a lot wider

 
  #125  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:51 PM
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  #126  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:58 PM
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Pretty sure I have the wrong seal. The old one is marked: K PAT 2319067 VICTOR 49958. It is the exact same ID and OD as the new one but is quite a bit wider.
 
  #127  
Old 08-07-2018, 07:01 PM
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i don,t think the width would be a problem,everything is made cheaper now . thats why timkin is now making parts in china.
 
  #128  
Old 08-07-2018, 07:29 PM
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So this seal is OK to use? I cross referenced my FORD part number B6J-1175-A (actual markings on seal are VICTOR 49958 K PAT 2319067) and came up with Timken 416297. ID 3.125 and OD 4.633 on the new seal are the same as the old seal. New seal is only old.43 wide whereas the old seal is .52 with a step up on one side and a groove on the back. So if I use the thinner new seal, I should seat the seal all the way down as close to the bearing as it will go? I am just worried about it sealing properly.

I also found axle gaskets: Ford part number A8TZ-10010A ID4.00, OD 5.53 and cross referenced it to FPG-3458 OR NTL GKT-1004
 
  #129  
Old 08-07-2018, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
Pretty sure I have the wrong seal. The old one is marked: K PAT 2319067 VICTOR 49958. It is the exact same ID and OD as the new one but is quite a bit wider.
The KPAT # is the patent number, it means nothing to you. I think your old seal may be leather. Your new seal is fine to use. They are designed to run in oil lubed applications, hence the red sealer. Press the seal into the hub just enough to install the snap ring. How does the sealing surface on the axle housing look? Is it grooved?

 
  #130  
Old 08-07-2018, 08:17 PM
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There is no snap ring.

The shaft looks to be in good shape.


 
  #131  
Old 08-07-2018, 08:20 PM
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Both of these nuts were only on hand tight.

 
  #132  
Old 08-07-2018, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
There is no snap ring. The shaft looks to be in good shape.
Ok, then just press the seal in until it's face is flush with the hub edge. The housing does look good, but I'd want to dress up the seal surface with some crocus cloth and then apply a film of grease.
 
  #133  
Old 08-07-2018, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man
Ok, then just press the seal in until it's face is flush with the hub edge. The housing does look good, but I'd want to dress up the seal surface with some crocus cloth and then apply a film of grease.
if I do that, the bearing is pretty loose in there.
 
  #134  
Old 08-08-2018, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
Both of these nuts were only on hand tight.
There isn't a torque setting for those nuts, but you have to be careful when you set the bearing preload that you don't over tighten the lock nut. There is a lot of thread creep in those.

 
  #135  
Old 08-08-2018, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618

if I do that, the bearing is pretty loose in there.
Yes it is, until you slide the hub onto the axle housing, then the bearing butts up against the shoulder. The seal is totally independent of the bearing.


 


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