1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

F500 Brake Job

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  #106  
Old 08-02-2018, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
I did see there is a real thin gasket on the cap that I removed on the hub. When I out all back together, Can I RTV it? I have some special green RTV it says it is made for differential fluids.
Hahaha. No. Not here. Ok for differential covers tho. Order up some new gaskets.

Edit: Before you reinstall the axle shafts, go around and double-nut the studs in the hub to make sure they're tight.
 
  #107  
Old 08-02-2018, 08:33 PM
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Oil running from the hub at this stage is a good thing. I am betting your bearings are good.
 
  #108  
Old 08-02-2018, 08:57 PM
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Glad to see you got the axles out. The studs would either be grade 6 or grade 8, as they torque well beyond the upper limit of a grade 5. They should be torqued at 62-69ftlbs. A grade 5, 7/16-20 bolt torques at 41ftlbs lubed and 55ftlbs dry. A grade 8, 7/16-20 bolt torques at 58ftlbs lubed and 78ftlbs dry. Ford used a lot of grade 6 bolts, head bolts are grade 6 for example, but they are pretty much nonexistent. So I personally would use grade 8 if you need to replace any of the studs, nuts or lock washers. As Bob said, the cone washers are reusable unless they are broken. You may or may not find axle gaskets locally, if not , you can buy some gasket paper and make your own. A manila folder actually makes good gaskets with a little Permatex on both sides. The gasket material thickness is not critical, I have seen silicone used, but I personally hate the stuff.
Mark.
 
  #109  
Old 08-03-2018, 01:03 PM
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Mark, I cannot find grade 6 anywhere. Is/was that a proprietary Ford grade?
 
  #110  
Old 08-03-2018, 06:11 PM
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Bob, Grade 6 bolts were not proprietary with Ford, but I believe grade 6 and grade 7 bolts are pretty much obsolete. I dug thru several of my machinery and engineering books in the shop and couldn't find the bolt head marking chart I was looking for. One of my books has a chart that shows grade 2 thru grade 9 bolt head markings. Here are a couple I found on the net that are similar to the one I was looking for.


I have never seen a grade 7 bolt in person, but Ford used a lot of bolts over the years with 4 marks on the head and I have seen lots of those. A lot of Ford head bolts are Grade 6.
Thanks, Mark
 
  #111  
Old 08-04-2018, 03:03 PM
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Wow! I must have had my head in the sand for the past 65 years of wrenching. Never heard of grades 3, 5.1, 7, or UBS. Kinda makes me think of property class metric fasteners. Although I am familiar with grade 9.




 
  #112  
Old 08-04-2018, 06:32 PM
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I have never seen a grade 3, 5.1, 7 or UBS either. I have used quite a few grade 9 bolts. So, considering the recommended torque value for the axle nuts in question, I would assume that they were probably grade 6. So, he should use grade 8 for any replacements.
Mark
 
  #113  
Old 08-05-2018, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4
I have never seen a grade 3, 5.1, 7 or UBS either. I have used quite a few grade 9 bolts. So, considering the recommended torque value for the axle nuts in question, I would assume that they were probably grade 6. So, he should use grade 8 for any replacements.
Mark
Ok. Sure. Grade 8 won't hurt anything.
 
  #114  
Old 08-06-2018, 04:22 PM
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Received the rear axle seals today. They are made in Japan. Got them because they are brand name of Timkin. The rear end is Timkin. I guessing not the same company.


 
  #115  
Old 08-06-2018, 04:25 PM
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Maybe it will be apparent once I get the old one out, but which way goes the seal fit into the hub? Here is a picture of the seal. There is lip on the rubber on one side and not the other. The picture doesn’t show it very well.


 
  #116  
Old 08-06-2018, 04:35 PM
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Oh goody, you got the neoprene (not rubber) lip seal instead of the leather one. The open side goes toward the bearing.
 
  #117  
Old 08-06-2018, 07:48 PM
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Not sure if it is rubber or neoprene. Feels like rubber. Hopefully I can work on it tomorrow after school.
 
  #118  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:18 PM
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I got the hub off. Here is a picture of the seal. How do I remove the old seal? I do t see a snap ring. The seal I bought looks a lot different.


 
  #119  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:19 PM
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  #120  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:20 PM
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