F500 Brake Job - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Notices
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

F500 Brake Job

Reply

 
 
 
  #46  
Old 07-25-2018, 09:45 AM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Current mileage is 30,886.

it looks like drum is rusted right to the circle around the hub where the two meet. I will heat the studs though. I wasn't putting to much on them. i was heating more the drum itself.
 
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 07-25-2018, 01:52 PM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Someone said heat it real good then throw cold water on it?
 
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 07-25-2018, 01:56 PM
raytasch's Avatar
raytasch
raytasch is offline
Old guy with old toys
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: W. Central FL.
Posts: 6,421
raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.
Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
If the brakes are stuck on, even if I were to pull the hub and the drum as one unit, I would still have trouble getting it off, because the brakes are on correct?

Not sure if I should pull the hub or not. Maybe I should put the old tires back on, drive it about two miles to a local guy who works on big trucks (does our fire trucks, delivery trucks and some semis) and have him get the drum off, put it back on, drive it home and start work on the brakes. Or have him do the whole job. Or at least see if he has a big puller I could borrow/rent. But even with a puller, the brakes are still on and I can't see how the drum will come off. I don't want to break the drum as I don't think I can find a replacement and I just spent a lot of money on new rims and tires to fit the current setup.
What about asking the guy to make a quick paid trip to your house after his business hours and have him weigh the situation with your brakes? He may have a heavy duty drum puller that he can bring to the site or rent to you very short term. Sometimes we need to call for help. Just one old man's thoughts..
 
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:48 PM
Mixer man's Avatar
Mixer man
Mixer man is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
Posts: 2,578
Mixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to behold
Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
Someone said heat it real good then throw cold water on it?
I would definitely NOT heat the studs, that would anneal them and only swell them into the drum, and you don't want that. The situation is problematic. If you heat the drum around the studs to open up the holes, you would also tighten the drum to the pilot. You could have the cold drum under tension with a puller arrangement and then apply heat to the outer portion of the stud circle.
If you heat it "real good" and then throw cold water on it you could change the properties of the metal. That process is known as quenching and could make that section hard and brittle.
I would also defer to Ray's suggestion about outside assistance since it's somewhat difficult to "armchair" this one.
 
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 07-25-2018, 04:23 PM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Rethought the process. Turned both adjusters towards the axle. Little tapping on the drum and it turned freely. Heated the ring where the hub and drum meet and tapped lightly. Stood up. Went to pull drum off with all my might and it came off by hand sending me falling backwards. Guess I didnít need to try quite that hard. Itís a beautiful thing. I will need new brake pads on this side. If I puts new pads on 1 Side should I do both sides? Should I get them repadded? Or buy new? I think there are eight or so rivets holding them on. I donít know if anyone off hand that repads. Now to remove the wheel cylinders.

This is an awesome website. Thank you all for the help. I am very pleased right now!

 
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old 07-25-2018, 04:23 PM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
 
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 07-25-2018, 04:25 PM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Both upper and lower pads look to be 3 1/2Ē wide by 14 1/2Ē long.
 
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 07-25-2018, 04:52 PM
raytasch's Avatar
raytasch
raytasch is offline
Old guy with old toys
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: W. Central FL.
Posts: 6,421
raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.raytasch has a spectacular reputation.
Great that you got the drum off. An internet search will turn up dozens of shops across the nation that will reline your brake shoes. I don't remember who did the shoes on my F4 but I was completely satisfied. Look closely at the web site as to the services offered and then call and speak with someone in the shop, someone who knows what is going on and will give you a price. Tell them shoe width and drum diameter. They know what cost will be. I sent my shoes via USPS.from TN to either Atlanta or Chatanooga early in the week and had them delivered by the end of that week. I asked for a soft lining for better braking and easier on the drums. I was completely satisfied with the transaction. The shoes came back looking like new

. I replaced my cylinders and believe I got them from Chuck's Trucks.

As mentioned earlier, your shoes are impregnated with oil or brake fluid. You will need to pull the hubs and replace the seals to have a job that will last. You will most likely need to rent the tools to R&R the hub nuts. Kinda hard to justify the cost for a one time use although they are not extremely expensive..
Edit: The information on my brakes is based on my fronts but the reline procedure is the same. I have a later Dana at the drive axle.


Have fun.
 
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 07-25-2018, 09:23 PM
49fordv8f4's Avatar
49fordv8f4
49fordv8f4 is online now
Posting Guru
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: North Central Arkansas
Posts: 1,879
49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold49fordv8f4 is a splendid one to behold
I'm glad you were able to get the drum off. As Ray said, you shouldn't have any trouble finding a brake shop to reline your shoes.
Mark
 
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 07-25-2018, 10:50 PM
Mixer man's Avatar
Mixer man
Mixer man is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
Posts: 2,578
Mixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to beholdMixer man is a splendid one to behold
Happy for you man. Too bad you didn't screw on a couple of lug nuts, could have saved your tailbone some embarrassment. If you have a pair of dividers or a caliper you can see if the drum is within limits to be turned. I think .060" is the limit. Brake shoes can be relined and they are as good as new.




 
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 07-26-2018, 06:18 AM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
On to the next phase. Taking the shoes off and taking the cylinders off. I see part numbers listed on autoatlanta.com for rear upper and rear lower. Are these side specific (left and right) or do I just order two of each and they can be installed on the left or the right? I see the front ones are listed as front left and front right.

How do I take the shoes off. remove the two spring, take the cotter pin out of the bolt sticking through the backing plate and they should come off?
 
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 07-26-2018, 09:08 AM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I found these on the net. I am pretty sure they are the correct wheel cylinders. Any thoughts? The B8T numbers are what I found after some research. I would need two of each right?

Replacement for original (OE) Manufacturer Part # B8T-2262-A (rear lower)

and

Replacement for Original (OE) Manufacturer Part # B8T-2261 (rear upper)
 
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 07-26-2018, 01:29 PM
Connecticut Calvin's Avatar
Connecticut Calvin
Connecticut Calvin is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Simsbury, Connecticut
Posts: 634
Connecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to all
There is no left or right. It's just upper and lower.

Centric has the parts and are available from Auto Atlanta and other Centric dealers. The Auto Atlanta link that has all of the parts on a single page is here: 1953 FORD MD F F600 Brake Parts

Should that link not work at some point in the future, the Centric part numbers are as follows.

Front Rubber Brake hoses 150.68008
Rear Rubber Brake hoses 150.66300
1-1/4" Master Cylinder 130.79026
1-1/2" Rear Lower Wheel Cylinders 134.82004
1-1/2" Rear Upper Wheel Cylinder 134.79001

Front WCs for 13" drums:
15/16" Front Left Wheel Cylinder 134.79025
15/16" Front Right Wheel Cylinder 134.79026

Front WCs for 14" drums:
1" Front Left Wheel Cylinder 134.82001
1" Front Right Wheel Cylinder 134.82002
 
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 07-26-2018, 01:32 PM
Connecticut Calvin's Avatar
Connecticut Calvin
Connecticut Calvin is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Simsbury, Connecticut
Posts: 634
Connecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to allConnecticut Calvin is a name known to all
Your master cylinder is part number 2140; or technically B3T-2140-A and is a 1-1/4" bore. Find it here: Ford New USA made Master Cylinder - B3T-2140-A - C&G Ford Parts
Napa: Brake Booster replaces C462C http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...01X_0006426067
 
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 07-26-2018, 02:38 PM
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Heuvelton
Posts: 211
HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Front drums should be the same as back drums correct? Back is 14Ē

whatbare the metal pieces that stick into the ends of the wheel cylinders called? Iím hoping to clean mine and reuse.

when I buy the wheel cylinders, do they generally come with the bleeder valve already installed or at least in the box? Or do I have to order them separate?

 
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: F500 Brake Job


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.