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F500 Brake Job

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  #31  
Old 07-24-2018, 09:43 AM
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After you remove the nuts retaining the axle, you will need to hit the end of the axle 2 or 3 times with a 2-3lb hammer to bounce the cone lock washers out of the axle end around each stud. The cone washers will come out far enough that you can grab them with a pair of pliers and remove them. Once the cone washers are removed, the axle will pull out. As Kevin said, there are a pair of nuts with a keyed washer between them retaining the wheel bearings. The nuts will be either six or eight sided. The keyed washer may have tabs bent over the flats of the nuts to keep them from backing off. The wheel seal will probably have a snap ring retaining it. It may have oil and dirt covering it, so it might not be noticeable.
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  #32  
Old 07-24-2018, 12:23 PM
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Sorry man, but you will only be exacerbating your problem by trying to remove the hub along with the brake drum. Your problem will still exist, and then you wouldn't have an axle end to push against. You must back off the brake shoes first. Try to saturate the adjusters with penetrating oil and then try to get them to turn by lightly tapping with a hammer alternately up and down with the brake spoon.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:34 PM
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Additionally, your axle bearing retaining nuts are eight sided octagon. I forgot exactly, but I think they are 3-1/2".

https://www.apexinds.com/hardware/Tr...t_Sockets.html
 
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  #34  
Old 07-24-2018, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man View Post
Sorry man, but you will only be exacerbating your problem by trying to remove the hub along with the brake drum. Your problem will still exist, and then you wouldn't have an axle end to push against. You must back off the brake shoes first. Try to saturate the adjusters with penetrating oil and then try to get them to turn by lightly tapping with a hammer alternately up and down with the brake spoon.
Agree with Mixer! You'll make your problems worse by removing the hub. You have to get those adjusters loose!

 
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Old 07-24-2018, 04:08 PM
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If there is a ridge in the drums or the drum will not turn, yes the adjusters will need to be freed up and the shoes backed off. But, unless you are replacing the drum, there is absolutely no reason to remove it from the hub. It does not impede removal in any way with the exception it does make the drum heavier. There is obviously gear oil on the shoes, so the hubs have to be removed to replace the seals anyways.
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Old 07-24-2018, 05:57 PM
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In adding to what Mark said, and maybe you have already surmised it, but the hub cannot be removed without the brake drum, but the brake drum can be removed without removing the hub. On another note, if you have access to a wheel dolly you can remove and install the wheels, hub, and drum as a single assembly. It actually makes the whole job easier, and you can service the bearings and seals too.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:39 PM
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Brake drum still not coming off. After a lot of PB Blaster and a couple blows from a hammer and screwdriver, I was able to get both the upper and lower star adjusters to turn. But now I canít turn the drum. Before, I could at least turn the drum. Brakes are now sticking. I turned the adjusters back the other way but the drum still will not turn. I pressed brake pedal a few times. I can see the brakes on the drivers side rear move (drum off this side). Which way should the adjusters turn to loosen the brakes? I can turn them both ways. There does not seem to be a locking lever. I do hear them click. Now what?
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:41 PM
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On a side note, after cleaning the carb last night, installing the new fuel pump, cleaning all the fuel lines, I got the truck to run. Itís running pretty good. Iím happy about that! Now for the dang brakes. Any other suggestions?
 
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  #39  
Old 07-24-2018, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
Brake drum still not coming off. After a lot of PB Blaster and a couple blows from a hammer and screwdriver, I was able to get both the upper and lower star adjusters to turn. But now I canít turn the drum. Before, I could at least turn the drum. Brakes are now sticking. I turned the adjusters back the other way but the drum still will not turn. I pressed brake pedal a few times. I can see the brakes on the drivers side rear move (drum off this side). Which way should the adjusters turn to loosen the brakes? I can turn them both ways. There does not seem to be a locking lever. I do hear them click. Now what?
I forget, but I think if you turn the adjusters in towards the axle (adjusting tool moves down) that loosens them. You can also try adjusting them both up tight at the same time (try either direction), but be sure you turn them both the same way, into the axle or away from the axle.
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
On a side note, after cleaning the carb last night, installing the new fuel pump, cleaning all the fuel lines, I got the truck to run. Itís running pretty good. Iím happy about that! Now for the dang brakes. Any other suggestions?
Excellent news!
 
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  #41  
Old 07-24-2018, 07:12 PM
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The emergency brake is not in the hubs correct? It goes around the drive shaft right?
 
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
The emergency brake is not in the hubs correct? It goes around the drive shaft right?
That is correct, IF you have a brake on the rear of your transmission. Wait! F-500, I'm not positive.
And by the way, this is the socket you will need for your wheel bearing nuts. It's 3/4 drive and 3" octagon.

 
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  #43  
Old 07-25-2018, 06:06 AM
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OK, so the brakes on the rear passenger side are stuck on. I use to be able to turn the drum by hand, now I can not turn the drum at all. I have freed up both upper and lower adjusters. turned both away from axle all the way, still cant turn the drum. Turned both towards the axle all the way, still cant turn the drum. Driver's side won't turn now either but the drum is off on that side. I'm thinking this is because of the positraction or something like that? When they were turning, I would turn one on way the other would spin the opposite direction.

So my dilemma now is how to back the brakes off so I can get the drum off.
 
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  #44  
Old 07-25-2018, 06:13 AM
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If the brakes are stuck on, even if I were to pull the hub and the drum as one unit, I would still have trouble getting it off, because the brakes are on correct?

Not sure if I should pull the hub or not. Maybe I should put the old tires back on, drive it about two miles to a local guy who works on big trucks (does our fire trucks, delivery trucks and some semis) and have him get the drum off, put it back on, drive it home and start work on the brakes. Or have him do the whole job. Or at least see if he has a big puller I could borrow/rent. But even with a puller, the brakes are still on and I can't see how the drum will come off. I don't want to break the drum as I don't think I can find a replacement and I just spent a lot of money on new rims and tires to fit the current setup.
 
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Old 07-25-2018, 09:01 AM
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If you can't turn the rear passenger drum, that to me seems like you're now "on the lip" and you're making progress. Do you see a little separation of the wheel studs in the front of the drum?

If you can't spin the hub, sounds to me like the truck may be in gear. Double check you're in neutral.

Remember that there are only two things the drum can snag on. Firstly, the wheel studs go through the brake drum and can literally be rusted to the drum....so heat heat heat on those studs. Secondly, the shoes. You certainly don't want to wallop on the drum with a BFH. I'd be very surprised if it was so worn that you had a major lip on the drum that's grabbing the shoes. But possible of course. Even with constant taps around the outside of the drum, the shoes should get pushed down and the drum should slide off. What's the mileage on the truck?
 
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